Lombok island indonesia. Indonesia, Lombok Island: in search of "white sandy beaches"

Lombok - picturesque island in Indonesia, part of the Malay Archipelago. On the south side it is washed by the waters indian ocean, and on the north side - the waters Pacific Ocean. Located 100 km east of Bali and separated from it by the Lombok Strait. Since the opening of the international airport in 2011, Lombok has become one of the favorite holiday destinations for tourists from all over the world.

The total area of ​​Lombok is 5435 sq. km. The length of land from north to south is 80 km, and from east to west - no more than 70 km. highest point island is the peak of the Rinjani volcano, located at an altitude of 3.72 km above sea level.

Lombok is part of the province of Nusa Tenggara. The territory of the island is divided into 4 districts (kabupatena):

• West.
• Oriental.
• Northern
• Central.

The administrative center is the city of Mataram - the largest settlement of the province, located on west coast islands. All the main infrastructure is concentrated here: hospitals, restaurants, offices, schools, shopping centers, post offices and government agency.

The population of Lombok is 3 million people. More than 80% of the inhabitants are representatives of the Sasak ethnic group. They live mainly in the northern, eastern, southern and central regions islands. The remaining 10% of the population are Balinese. They live mainly in the western part of Lombok.

Official language on the territory of the Indonesian island. In the villages, almost all residents are also fluent in Sasak and Balinese. In Mataram you can meet many people who know spoken English. Usually these are street vendors, tourist guides, employees of bars, restaurants and hotels.

Climatic conditions

The climate on the island is subequatorial. The rainy season is observed from October to April. Tropical showers on Lombok are not uncommon, but each of them lasts an average of no more than 1 hour. About 1600 mm of precipitation falls per year. The dry season in Lombok lasts from the beginning of May until the end of September. This is the best time for diving, snorkeling and beach holiday.

Humidity is high, as the western equatorial and eastern tropical monsoons dominate in this climatic zone. The temperature of the surface waters of the ocean reaches 25 degrees Celsius, and in some areas even up to 30.

Beaches

Pink Beach or Tangsi Beach

This beach is one of the main attractions of the island, as the sand here is not white, but pink. It acquired an unusual shade due to the fact that water constantly erodes coastal corals and, during high tides, brings their smallest particles to the shore.

Pink Beach is divided into 3 small zones, which are located not far from each other. This is the calmest and quietest beach in Lombok, as there is only 1 hotel here, consisting of 20 small villas scattered along the coast. Not far from the beach there are several stalls where locals sell coconuts, natural juices and various seafood dishes.

The ocean floor in the Pink Beach area is dotted with coral reefs, so the beach is popular not only among beach lovers, but also among divers.

Senggigi

Quiet cozy beach with a length of about 1 km, located in the western part of the island of Lombok. Suitable for lovers a relaxing holiday. On Senggigi you can rent a sun lounger or gazebo, enjoy local cuisine in a cafe, rent a surfboard or diving equipment. The water here is clean and very warm. The sand is dark, volcanic.

Kuta

Beach in the southern part of the island, very quiet and secluded place. The sand here is pure white, coarse-grained. People often rest on Kuta with children, as there are many shoals, low waves and warm water. Along the beach is the central promenade, which was completely renovated in 2017.

Attractions and entertainment

Volcano Rinjani

The last eruption here was recorded in 1996, but the volcano is still considered active. Lombok regularly hosts trekking tours to its summit. Together with a local guide, you can climb to the very edge of the crater at a height of 2700 meters and bathe in hot underground springs. lovers extreme recreation can go even further and climb to the very peak of the mountain. The cost of the trip ranges from 110 to 220 dollars, the journey will take 2-3 days.

This is not a water park at all. water slides as many might think. The park has a large swimming pool. Botanical Garden, royal residence and the Hindu temple of Pura Kalas. The legendary "fountain of youth" is also located here. It is believed that the water in it has rejuvenating properties. Entrance to the park costs 10,000 rupees (about $1).

Pura Meru temple complex

It was erected in 1720 during the reign of Anak Agunda. On the territory of the complex there are 33 holy relics, symbolizing the worship of three gods: Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. Religious ceremonies are regularly held in the main temple. Near the gates of the complex, you can see the drums, the beating of which notifies the locals about the beginning of worship. Entrance is free, but according to tradition, tourists leave small donations for the upkeep of the temple.

Sindang Gila waterfall

It is difficult to get to it on your own, as there is a high risk of getting lost. The waterfall is located in the middle of the forest and reaches a height of 500 meters. Immediately below it is a large clear lake where anyone can swim. Every day, local guides lead small tours to this place for a nominal fee. amazing place.

Mayura Water Palace

Building this architectural complex was completed in 1744. Previously, the Balinese court was located in this building, but at the end of the 19th century the building was destroyed during bloody battles with the Dutch army. In the 20th century, the palace was partially reconstructed, and a luxurious park complex with many fountains and statues was laid out around it.

Best hotels

Hotel (5 stars). Small but very beautiful and comfortable hotel. It has a large swimming pool and a restaurant overlooking the ocean. The hotel offers a spa and cooking classes, where guests will learn how to cook authentic local dishes. Some suites have private pools under open sky.

Hotel (4 stars). Each room has its own balcony and air conditioning, and the apartments are beautifully decorated. The hotel is located on the first coastline, so walking to the beach will take no more than 4-5 minutes. Two swimming pools are open for visitors: children's and adult. There is a spa, massage parlour, and a private tennis court.

Novotel Lombok Resort & Villas (4 stars). From the windows of the apartments beautiful view to the ocean. The hotel is located next to the beach, so the walk to the ocean takes no more than 10 minutes. The distance from Novotel Lombok to the international airport is 42 km, which is very convenient, since the journey by car takes less than half an hour. Each room has a bar, safe, air conditioning. Three swimming pools, two restaurants and a kids club are open to guests.

Hotel (4 stars). The hotel is located on the first coastline, just 900 meters from the beach, there is a private beach area. The hotel has a bar with refreshing drinks and a restaurant, a spa with hot tub and an outdoor pool. Guests can rent bicycles, cars, canoes and deep-diving equipment for a reasonable fee.

Hotel The Suites Lombok (3 and 5 stars). For guests on site there is a fitness room with modern exercise equipment, an outdoor pool overlooking the ocean, as well as a tour desk. Water sports enthusiasts can rent canoes. The apartments have outdoor terraces, satellite TV and free Wi-Fi. The restaurant serves Asian, Chinese and American cuisine. There is a separate menu for vegetarians.

Transport

On Lombok you will find the following modes of transport:

• Bemo routes. They are passenger vans of various sizes. Spacious bemos cater to long-distance intercity routes, and small vans transport the population within only one locality.
• Chidomo horse carts. This type of transportation is still used in all parts of the countryside. In cities, chidomo are also found, but more as a means of recreational walks for tourists.
• Ferries. The island has several ports, all of which are served by large and small ferries. This transport runs around the clock and makes it possible to get from Lombok to Sumbawa, the Gili Islands or Bali in a few hours. The disadvantage of this method of transportation is that the cabins are often stuffy and there are no air conditioners, and being on the open deck is not always allowed. weather.
• Taxi and motorcycle taxi. One trip costs from 10,000 to 60,000 rupees.
• Tourists can also rent a car for 150-200 thousand rupees per day. This is about 500-700 rubles. It is also possible to rent a motorbike, it is much cheaper.

How to get to Lombok from Bali?

You can get from Bali to Lombok Island in the following ways:

• by plane;
• on a ferryboat;
• on high-speed boats (speedboats).

There are up to 8 flights from Bali to Lombok every day. The duration of the flight will be only 25 minutes, and this pleasure will cost 500,000 rupees (about $ 50). Air tickets can be purchased on the website Aviasales.ru. It shows all available options. different airlines.

Ferries from Bali to Lombok run around the clock. They sail from the Padang Bay pier, located on east coast Bali, and moor at the port of Lembar Harbor on the island of Lombok. The trip lasts from 4 to 6 hours, depending on weather conditions. The fare is $3, ferries depart hourly.

The fastest way to get from Bali to Lombok is to get there by speedboat (speedboat). The trip will take only 1.5 hours and will cost about 200,000 rupees (about $15). The service is provided only by private transport companies. Boats depart from Sanur Beach and Padang Bay Pier.

Lombok island on the map

On this map, I marked the exact location of Lombok Island.

Lombok is often referred to as Bali's little brother. Holidays here will appeal to lovers of a calm environment, quiet beaches and wildlife. It is better to visit Lombok during the dry season (from May to September), as during this period the weather conditions are very good, it rarely rains and there are practically no storms.

First, let me explain that we chose Lombok as a place for relaxation and a beach holiday on the advice of Vivian, a familiar girl from Indonesia. We were going to Bali, we didn’t know about Lombok yet, but she advised Lombok and after that I read on the Internet that there are a lot of people in Bali, the ocean is surrounded by currents and this place is not for a relaxing holiday. Having visited both there and there, we realized that we did the right thing by turning to Lombok, it’s a pity that not for a long time.

In the morning, the territory of the hotel charmed us - a beautiful garden and a swimming pool, a fairly clean beach and sea.

We arrived on the island of Lombok late in the evening, besides, it was raining there. We left the airport at ten o'clock, not hoping to find a cheap taxi. But there they attacked us with offers of transport and, in addition, for some reason there was a crowd of those who met, we did not understand whom they met. Knowing the real price, we hired a driver for 200 croup (after a little bargaining, I asked for 250), to go to the hotel quite far, in Senggigi. We got to the Mascot beach hotel already barely alive. The driver did not know where our hotel was and called someone endlessly, at first he drove past, it turned out that he had to turn a little off the main road. Outside the capital city of Lombok, Matarama, north towards Senggigi, "all civilization" is located along this road, which at times runs right along the shore of the strait.
In the morning, the territory of the hotel charmed us - a beautiful garden and a swimming pool, a fairly clean beach and sea. Despite a little rain, we swam in the sea and in the pool. At this time, my camera got wet and then stopped working.

The hotel is excellent also because its territory adjoins the sea. The sea and the coast were clean, the water was clear, despite the fact that fishermen's boats moored here. You can swim if the waves are not strong. The staff is very friendly, sheets are changed every day. WiFi is good. Our room was the cheapest and didn't have a fridge or kettle. There is a clothes dryer, but there is no shelf for accessories in the bathroom. Sometimes in the bathroom at night you can see a cockroach. The breakfast was a bit disappointing - not varied. You need to choose one thing: rice, noodles or a thick pancake (pancake), you can also add eggs in any form, you can withstand several days. True, you can still take fruits - watermelons, papaya and pineapples, which are sour for some reason in Indonesia. Behind the hotel fence, merchants and taxi drivers everywhere strongly stick. There are many exchangers on the street, there are good ones without a commission opposite, shops and cafes too. Sunshine Cafe just down the road - not recommended: expensive, long wait and tasteless! Massage costs 60kR per hour, in Orchid massage parlors. others are more expensive. The location of the hotel in Senggigi is very good - everything is close. Further north, the hotel is not worth taking if you do not want privacy, there is nothing there but the road and the locals. Everything is cheaper in Lombok than in Bali, but you get tired of having to haggle all the time. The hotel is highly recommended for a great location.

On the first day, we were not going anywhere, but after leaving the hotel, the driver persistently attached himself to us with an offer to tour the island. We bargained with him for 300 croup for half a day. Moreover, I had to buy a laptop cable - I found that I had lost it somewhere on the road.

Lombok Attractions: Pura Lingsar Temple Complex, Mayura Water Palace, Pura Meru

By car, we traveled all the local modest sights of the capital of the island, the city of Mataram. First we went to the Lingsar temple complex (Pura Lingsar), built in 1714 - the most sacred place Lombok. It serves two religions at once: Balinese Hinduism and three-time Islam “Vektu Telu” (Wektu Telu), each has its own temple built on the territory. There were no people in the temples at all, neither tourists nor believers. There is no entrance fee, you just need to donate a small amount and you will be tied with a belt.

water palace Mayura (Mayura Water Palace). This palace was built in 1744 and used to be the palace of justice of the Balinese kingdom. In 1894, a fierce battle broke out here between the Dutch and the Balinese, as a result of which the palace was seriously destroyed. Now there is a lake surrounded by a park with statues, altars and cannons. We did not go into it, there was little time, and we had to pay for the entrance.

Durians were selling all around along the road and we asked the taxi driver to buy us one (so that the price would not be broken). It turns out that a small durian costs only 5000, but there is almost nothing in it, you need to take large ones.

The next temple we visited was Pura Meru, the largest temple in Lombok. This Hindu temple was built in 1720. In the courtyard there are 33 small shrines to the gods Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. The roofs of the towers are made of a thick layer of palm fibers, laid with some kind of ornaments. Then we saw the same technology on the temples of Bali, in particular on Besakih. A taxi driver brought us to one village of artisans (we simply refused the rest), they make souvenirs and furniture made of wood, including masks inlaid with mother of pearl. The prices there turned out to be high, they were not reduced, although the products are very beautiful, we left there without buying. In the end, the taxi driver also brought us to jewelry shop, how could it be without him! Prices were not marked there, they were called high. Ira liked the pearl earrings and she felt sad. I asked her how much she was ready to buy them for, we returned and I began to bargain, they offered their price, but seeing our persistence, they easily agreed to our “final price”. They also asked the driver to take us to the largest shopping center in Mataram, I think Mataram Mall, in search of a power cable from a laptop - the locals said that you can only buy it in it. Good luck - we found it and managed to revive my laptop for little money. Galya said that she would like to see great mosque, they asked the driver and he drove us to a huge mosque under construction. Its dimensions for a small island, which is Lombok, are simply amazing! In addition, besides this one, we saw many other mosques, it is not for nothing that Lombok is called the “Island of 1000 mosques”.

We stopped at the market in Mataram, bought fruits and avocados at normal prices.

Then - to the Chinese cemetery, where the tombstones are very impressive. The children playing there, seeing us, shouted "Hello, mister!" ("Mister" - for some reason they often addressed us like that). We gave them candy. Goats climbed the gravestones. A show was going on nearby - an advertisement for motorbikes, as we understood.

We asked the driver to take us to the Yessi cafe recommended on Tripadvisor, he showed it, but said that he knew something else much better. We believed him and came to dinner at this Sunshine cafe on the seashore, not far from the hotel. There we waited for an order for a long time, the waiters came up several times, they all clarified something. As a result, they brought tasteless food, even the grilled fish was tasteless. Then, in the calculation, it seems that we were deceived. We gave two bills of 100,000 each, they are red, the waiter came to the cashier, returned to us and showed that we kind of gave 100,000 and 10,000 - this bill is lilac, but here it turned out to be red too. I had to pay, either they changed it, or we gave it wrong.

Ira kept trying to photograph the sunset, but no luck - the clouds covered the sun all the time. And at night there was a terrible thunderstorm and downpour, it seemed that the houses would be demolished with us and the roof would leak, but everything worked out.

The next day we just rested, it was not hot, cloudy. Ira and I went along the coast, on which an expensive hotel is located, beyond the cape, where fishermen stand and surfers ride on the wave.

There, by the shore, many locals rested and traders pestered. After endless bargaining, we bought several pareos for 45 krupi as a gift for friends, knocking down the price several times.

There was an empty tourist police booth right there, although the inscription on it said that they were always ready to serve!

Returning from a walk, we swam in the pool and my girlfriends managed to get burned to redness, lingering at the pool longer than me. We were going to celebrate March 8 in a cafe with music, but I got poisoned by a pate brought from home, which we decided to finish eating at lunch (in a can of thick foil, it went bad!).

I planned a trip to the small island of Meno (one of the three islands of Gili), but since I still felt weak, we didn’t go anywhere the next day either. It was sunny and we were relaxing in the shade by the pool. In the evening we went outside, where I agreed with the Blue bird taxi driver about a trip to the pier the next morning, asking him all about the boats to Meno Island. He gave me all the information about the trip without trying to cheat. We went for a massage for 60 croup and ate at the Yessi cafe, it took about 7 minutes to go up the road from the hotel. The waiter in it turned out to be a polyglot - he recognized Russians in us and immediately spoke pretty decent Russian. As we found out, he also knows other languages, although he has no special education. This was surprising, since very few people here speak English. We also liked the food, which was rare in Indonesia, and we were fed quite quickly (the prices are democratic, but there is a 10% service charge).

Meno Island

The last day of our holiday in Lombok has arrived. If we had not gone to Meno Island, then the trip would not have been complete, so I still insisted on the trip. While driving, we made sure that our hotel is located in the best place for the rest of Senggigi, there is almost no civilization further. We drove to the Bangsal pier for about an hour, paid 110 croup, the taxi driver apologetically dropped us off before reaching the pier itself - the locals do not let us go further. They do business by delivering 300 meters on a horse, but we went on foot. We liked the driver, agreed that he would take us to the airport the next morning. We bought tickets for a public bot for 14,000 and some other fees, like for the environment, for 6,000.

While waiting for boarding, Galya again actively communicated with men, improving her knowledge of English. On the sign on the shore it was written - "tsunami zone, run 500m", far away ...

We loaded onto the boat and sailed to Meno Island. This is one of the 3 small islands near Lombok, 1 * 2 km in size. Beaches and hotels were almost empty. People come there for snorkeling and diving, you can see huge sea ​​turtles. We walked along the coast almost the entire island, returned and settled on the beach under a tree, asking for an unreal amount of 100 groats ($ 9) for sunbeds. The shadow at noon is right under our feet - we are almost at the equator.

The water is really clear and turquoise in color, but there is a lot of garbage in the water and on the shore, possibly due to frequent rains. It started raining and it got cold.

Part of the Indonesian islands, this is a place where tourists from different countries go to spend time without the fuss and crowds. Holidays in Lombok, Indonesia are affordable prices, beaches, entertainment, attractions for those who appreciate a leisurely pastime surrounded by exotic natural beauties.

There are several options to visit the island of Lombok:
1. By ferry or boat. Round the clock ferry service is organized from the nearest island of Bali. The starting point is the port of Padang Bay, the place of arrival in Lombok is the port of Lembar. Travel time is 3 to 6 hours. The ticket price is IDR 80,000 per person. There is no clear timetable for ferries, the average interval is 2-3 hours.

2. By plane. From the same island of Bali, you can go to Lombok by plane. The ticket will cost from 40 euros. Air travel from Indonesian Jakarta will cost at least 90 euros. New airport islands since 2011 has been hosting international flights. Direct flights connect Lombok with Singapore and Malaysia. The cost of a round-trip ticket from Singapore is from 360 euros.

You can take a taxi to the resting place from the airports or the port of Lembar. The price is most often negotiated with the taxi driver. The main rule is to bargain.

By the way, a bus runs from the international airport to the popular tourist area - Senggiji. Ticket price 20,000 rupees. For comparison, a similar route by taxi will cost 160,000 rupees.

Lombok Island: features of recreation

The main direction of recreation is a calm, measured pastime on the beach.
However, holidays on the east and holidays on the west coast are different.

Tourist areas and beaches

Resort Senggigi

The resort area in the western part of Lombok is located 50 km from the international airport. The western part of the island has a well-developed infrastructure. Walking through local shops, you should pay attention to products made of silk or fabric using gold and silver threads. No less valuable are the masterpieces of local potters.

The beaches of Senggigi

The beaches of this resort area are the best in Lombok. The sand here is gray-beige, and the grains of sand reach the size of a black peppercorn. beach line wide. There is a feeling of emptiness. Large hotels designed for foreign tourists have their own territory on Senggiji beach. Each such site is equipped with everything necessary for a quality holiday on the coast. Near central beach The resort is located popular among Indonesians beach - Kerangdangan.

Eastern part of the island

An ordinary tourist who prefers comfort rarely visits the east coast of Lombok, but surfers in the village of Kuta are frequent guests. Despite the complete absence of any kind of tourist infrastructure, there are several decent guesthouses and comfortable hotels here. The beaches of the eastern part of the island are characterized by lighter, almost white, sand. In addition to areas ideal for surfers and windsurfers, there are beaches that are well suited for families:

• Mavun Lagoon, located among the hills with lush vegetation.
• Novotel Hotel Beach - Pantai Putri Nyale.
• Tanjung A'an Beach, the water here is a deep turquoise color.
• Air Guling Bay is the closest to Kuta and is an ideal place to relax with children.

Things to do in Lombok

The nature of the island has created several interesting objects that are worth a visit while relaxing on Lombok in 2019. Among them:

1. Rinjani volcano, almost 4000 meters high. Climbing the volcano takes a whole day. During the ascent, meetings with representatives of the local fauna are not uncommon. Such an excursion great opportunity see picturesque mountainous areas. At the top is a beautiful volcanic lake.
2. Sendang Gila Waterfall, located a 30-minute walk from Senaru village, is the most beautiful waterfall on the island. By the way, after walking up the river for about an hour, you can see another waterfall - Tui Kelep.
3. Lake Danau-Segara-Anae.

Vacationers on the east coast can take a walk through the many hiking trails this part of the island.

In addition to natural parks, Lombok has historical and cultural sites.

The main attractions of Lombok

1. Narmada Water Park is a large-scale landscape and architectural complex founded in the 19th century. There are many springs and lakes in the park. The Fountain of Youth is also equipped here, the water from which, according to local residents, contributes to its extension.
2. The Pura Kalasa temple is a vivid example of Hindu culture, located on the territory of Narmada Park.
3. Mayura Water Palace, built in the middle of the 18th century. A walk through the territory of the palace park is an opportunity to enjoy interesting sculptural objects, fountains and admire the picturesque lake.
4. Villages of craftsmen, among which are: the village of weavers - Sukarare, the village of Penuyak, where clay products are made, and the village of Suradi, its inhabitants make bags and jewelry from palm leaves.

In the northern part of Lombok rises the huge Gunung Rinjani volcano, the second largest in Indonesia. Most people live here on a fertile plain at the foot of mountain range. The south of the island is hilly and arid, with low, rough vegetation, and its eroded valleys reminiscent of some of the scenery in Australia.

Having studied the plants and animals of Indonesia, the naturalist of the XIX century. Alfred Wallace divided it into two parts: western, related to South-East Asia, and the eastern one, which is geographically adjacent to Australia and Oceania. He drew the dividing line just across the Lombok Strait, showing that Bali and Lombok belong to different geographical areas. Although this division is not indisputable, its basis - the "Wallace line" - is still recognized.

For many years, Lombok served as a home for the Sasaks, who once came here from Asia through Java and Bali. It is known that they were animists - they animated everything that surrounded them. When Islam entered the island (partially from Bali), part of the population accepted it, but in its own version, Vektu Telu, which retained a significant influence of animism. Now the majority of the inhabitants of the island, to one degree or another, profess Islam. Traveling around Lombok, you will notice many exotic mosques, with domes and bizarre arcades, as well as a considerable number of young women in headscarves and dresses of special cut.

Bali's first intervention attempts began in the 18th century. After a while, most of Lombok was administered from Bali's Karangasem. Later, the Balinese province on Lombok became independent and even tried to subjugate Karangasem. The animistic-Hindu beliefs of the Balinese and the animistic-Muslim religion of the Sasaks were not always in conflict, there was much in common between them. Now most people from Bali live in the west of Lombok and influence the development of local trade and tourism.

At the end of the XIX century. the Dutch, taking advantage of the differences between the Balinese and the Sasaks, joined the latter and then established full control over them. After the Second World War, at the end of the Japanese occupation of Lombok, the Dutch returned to the island for a short time, but as soon as Indonesia declared independence, they left it again.

People

Lombok, named after the local variety of chili pepper, is also called the "Island of a Thousand Mosques". Indeed, the Hindus who came here in the 16th century from the Bali Karangsem settled only on the west coast and number only 100 thousand people. The vast majority of the population - more than two million - Sasaks who profess Islam. They are divided into two groups: vetu tulu (wetu tulu)- almost pagans living in the mountains and observing only some Islamic and Hindu rites, and vetulima (Wetu Lima)- real orthodox Sunnis.

All of them speak Sasak and Bahasa, many understand Balinese and Sumbawa. English is in use only in the most popular resorts.

Where to go on Lombok

On Lombok, you will first of all be conquered by the unhurried, relaxing pace of life, clean beaches and natural untouched beauty. Visitors to the island pay tribute to the peaceful country roads where water buffaloes roam with their calves, hens run with chickens and unexpectedly opens the ocean azure, dotted with sail points. Most tourists stay in hotels near Senggigi beach or for several outlying islands Gili, but in the south of Lombok there is also good beaches suitable for snorkelling.

The island has several noteworthy temples, palaces and other historical sites, but its rich culture is not conspicuous, not on display. The coexistence of Sasak and Balinese-Hindu traditions means that there are always some ceremonies taking place here, you can get information about them at your hotel.

Some villages specialize in certain crafts: weaving, weaving, pottery or wood carving. For a glimpse of village life, it's best to rent a car or motorbike and take a day trip through the charming countryside. It is worth knowing the opening hours of the markets; in many towns and villages they open in the morning once or twice a week. Roads outside the city limits are free, and pony-drawn carts still predominate as vehicles. (chidomo).

Ampenan, Mataram and Chakranegara

Planes land at Selaparanga Airport, located on the northern border of the capital of Lombok - the city of Mataram. Slow ferries from Bali arrive at the Lembar port dock 10 km south.

Not so long ago old port Ampenan, the administrative center of Mataram and the shopping area of ​​Chakranegara were completely separated from each other. Now it is an urban conglomerate with a quarter of a million people. They are united by a long, wide street that ends in Sveta, the central transport hub of the city.

The port area of ​​Ampenan is already crumbling and almost unused, the narrow streets of the old city are much busier. Most of the population are the descendants of Arab traders, they can be seen in well-kept mosques, where they gather to pray to the cries of muezzins.

South of the center, in Jalan Banjar Tilar Negara, is the Nusa Tenggara Barat Museum (Tue-Sun 7.00-14.00, entrance fee). There you can get acquainted with the culture of the island and its nature.

Mataram, the provincial capital of Nusa Tenggara Barat, houses a number of government offices; the tree-lined streets are full of wealthy houses. On the way to the temple, located on top of Mount Gunung Peng Song, which is 6 km to the south, you will be met by flocks of monkeys waiting for handouts.

The commercial center of Lombok, Chakranegara, or simply Chakra, grew up around the palace of the Balinese rajas. Of all the royal buildings, only the Mayura water palace has survived to this day, which previously had halls for receptions and court hearings. The palace stands in the middle of the lake; You can approach it along a paved road guarded by cannons. Here in 1894 the Balinese won a short-term victory over the Dutch troops. A few weeks after this triumph, everything changed and the Dutch continued to conquer the island.

On the opposite side of the street stands Pura Meru, the largest temple in Lombok, built in 1720. Its three meru shrines are dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. A huge wooden drum in the outer courtyard announces the beginning of the festivities and ceremonies to the Hindu community. In the east, the transport hub of Light is crowded with buses (bemo) and pony carts (chidomo). Lombok's largest market is also noisy here.

Near the capital

Hillside gardens and a lake at Narmada, 10 km east of Chakranegara, were laid out in the 19th century. by order of one of the kings: they were supposed to remind him of the Gunung Rinjani volcano and the lake located in its crater (due to old age, he could no longer visit them). Once another rectangular pool was added, the resemblance was no longer so obvious.

In Lingsar, in the north of the Narmada, there is an ecumenical temple Pura Lingsar, designed to unite people of different religions. Its upper structure is reserved for Hindus. Large old sacred eels live in the pool of the Vektu Telu temple, they must be fed with sacrificial boiled eggs, which merchants will sell to you at the gate. In another building lies a stone brought from Gunung-Rinjani, wrapped in white cloth and tied with a yellow sash. It is said that he represents the spirits of the family. Chinese Taoists carry a mirror with them to ward off evil spirits.

In Suranadi Gardens, east of Lingsar, you will also be offered eggs meant for the inhabitants of the pond in the Temple of the Sacred Eels. You can also take a dip in a pool fed by natural springs and stay for lunch at the old Dutch-built Suranadi Inn.

Senggigi beach and Gili Islands

Heading along the coast north of Ampenan, visit the Pura Setara water temple near the bright, colorful Chinese cemetery. The villagers gather next to him to pull the fishing boats ashore and sort the catch. Right in front of Senggigi, on a rock, stands the vaulted Pura Batu Bolong. The ancient Hindu shrine juts out into the sea, providing a great platform from which to enjoy the sunset over the Lombok Strait.

The place where you need to stop first of all is near the Senggigi beach, north of Batubolong. Sometimes the beach slopes down steeply, and there may be rocks or a coral reef right under the surface of the water, so it is better to walk along it in rubber shoes rather than barefoot. The road north of Senggigi follows one of the most charming coastlines in the Indonesian archipelago. Sometimes she climbs to the top of the cliffs, and then rushes down to the very water. Tiny villages hide among the palm trees, and bright spots of sails flicker in the ocean distance.

Sometimes tours from Senggigi and transport from Mataram do not go to the coast, but inland, along the windy Pusuk Pass road. Two roads meet in Pemenang, one of them, a country road, leads to the small port of Bangsala, from where you can go to the three Gili Islands located in the distance (the word gili means "island"). The nearest of them, Gili Air, lies about 3 km, followed by Gili Meno, and then Gili Trawangan - it is not only the farthest, but also the largest of them, although its length is only 2.5 km.

White sand beaches and coral reefs have made the Gili extremely popular with divers, hikers and those looking to have fun. The quietest of the islands is Gili Meno; here you can relax in the numerous beach cafes and bamboo bungalows, without fear that the noise of cars, motorcycles and barking dogs will disturb the peace. But Gili Trawangan is famous for noisy parties, and in general here more fun, including diving centers.

Boats from Bangsal to the islands usually only leave when they are full of passengers. (usually one boat holds 15-20 people). In July and August you don't have to wait long, but in the off-season it's better to pay for empty seats or hire a round-trip carrier (for a fairly low fixed fee). Buy tickets in the main building, not from salesmen or makeshift stalls: you can easily run into scammers there. In some large hotels in the Gili Islands, speedboat transfers are available.

Mountain hikes

Gunung-Rinjani with a height of 3726 m is revered by both the Sasaks and the Balinese, who arrange pilgrimages to the lake and hot springs located in its crater. Every year, many lovers of mountain tourism come to this area; they start their route from one of the villages at the foot of the volcano, south of Bayan (we recommend hiking during the dry season, from June to November).

The narrow road climbs rapidly from the center of Bayan to Batu Kok, leads to the nearby village of Senara, and ends there. Along the road there are guest houses, some of them adjoin a restaurant or cafe (warung), and from the restaurant overlooking the valley, you can see the glare of the Sendang Gile waterfall. In Rinjani you can hire a guide - both for one day and for a longer ascent. The main goal of tourists is an awe-inspiring crater with a beautiful crescent-shaped lake. To reach it, you will need a whole day of tedious hiking. The depth of the crater is 600 m, the descent along its steep, slippery slope will take several more hours. Plan on three or even four days of expedition, especially if you want to climb to the top of Rinjani. Those who don't have that much time or energy can enjoy a half hour walk through the valley and lunch at Senara, next to the magnificent Sendang and Tin Kelep waterfalls.

South and East of Lombok

As you leave the Lombok road and head east of Narmada, you will come across a cluster of craft villages. Loyok, for example, is famous throughout Indonesia for baskets and bamboo mats. In nearby Rungkang, jet-black pots of all sizes are made and then braided with thin, flexible rattan.

On the southern slope of Gunung Rinjani is Tetebatu, favorite place recreation of local residents, with an old hotel and a couple of apartments overlooking the green valleys. Here you can walk to the forest waterfall accompanied by black monkeys who will chat, squeal and jump from branch to branch.

Labuhan-Lombok on the east coast is the local "outback"; it is hot and stuffy here, the impression is smoothed out only by picturesque pile houses. From the Kayangan terminal, which is 3 km from this village, cargo and passenger ferries leave for Sumbawa Island.

In Sukarara, just south of Mataram, almost every household has an antique loom for the production of magnificent songket fabrics, in which gold and silver threads are mixed with cotton threads. A little further south is Penujak, where world famous pottery is made for export.

Belek, east of the market town of Praia, specializes in complex weaving: it takes local craftswomen about a week to make just one large table mat. Further south, near Kuta, is Rambitan, a traditional Sasak settlement with bamboo-covered houses and tall barns for storing rice. Tourists and souvenir sellers are always crowded there. Sade is similar to him, but not as big. Note the bamboo-roofed mosques in both villages.

To the south, dry, low scrub-covered hills take you slowly through the semi-desert before revealing one of Indonesia's most stunning coastlines. Kuta Beach with its white coral sand is one of the most convenient places for surfing, however, unlike its Balinese namesake, it is mostly empty. You can stay here in modest cottages; some of them have restaurants.

At the sandy beach of Mandalika, the Novotel Coralia Resort is located, stylized as a traditional Sasak village. This is the most best hotel in District. At the request of the guests, drivers can deliver them to one of the most beautiful secluded beaches nearby.

It is worth visiting the Sunday morning market in the village of Kuta: it is very crowded and interesting here. Once a year, in February or March, for a few days after the second full moon, people gather on the beach near Novotel to hold the Bau Nyale festival. The festival has very ancient origin and passes into the night when millions of sea worms crawl out of the water to mate.

Traveling around Lombok

In Senggigi they settle down organized tours on the few cultural attractions of Lombok and the villages of artisans. Some of them include a visit to one of the Gili Islands for snorkeling or diving. Bemos travel from city to city, but rarely leave the densely populated central lowlands. They can be rented at a price that roughly corresponds to the cost of a daily rental of a standard vehicle. On the ubiquitous chidomo (pony with a wagon similar to a Balinese dokar) convenient for small trips. Taxis outside Senggigi must be booked in advance. You can rent a car in Senggigi and Mataram. You can also rent bicycles, they are good for traveling in the mountains during the dry season (from June to October).

Accommodation

Most visitors to this island stay in and around Senggigi. A number of hotels are located in Kuta Beach and on south coast. The Gili Islands have comfortable middle-class hotels, losmens, as well as luxurious villas and hotels, the number of which is increasing.

In villages where there are no official places to spend the night, but if you want to stay here, you need to introduce yourself to the elder: he will place you with one of the local families.

Kitchen

Lombok cuisine does not differ in anything special from its Balinese neighbor. Except for one thing: this is a Muslim island and finding pork on the menu of restaurants outside the resorts is problematic. Alcohol is ubiquitous in tourist areas, mostly in the form of Bintang beer.

crafts

Craft art in Lombok focuses on the production of household items that have natural beauty and functionality. Look for exquisite wickerwork, be it mats, boxes, plates, pouches, or today's popular rice barns. The wooden carved and painted caskets for storing spices, tobacco, and jewelry are also very attractive. Simple red earthenware is made in Penujak, while intricately woven black pots are made in Rungkang.

How to get there

Selaparang International Airport ("Selaparang") in Mataram, two ferry crossings - that's the whole poor set of communication between Lombok and the "mainland", usually meaning neighboring Bali.

Actually, air communication with other countries is limited only to flights of Singapore's Silk Air with its inhumane 300 SGD one way and 490 SGD "round trip" from Singapore (approximately $190 and 300)- and this is a couple of months before the flight. A week before the desired date, the price tag skyrockets, and it is more logical to use Air Asia flights and local airlines with a transfer in Denpasar. The Bali capital is very close - 15 minutes in the air by plane a / c "Merpati" (2-3 flights a day, $60). Those wishing to save money are offered flights on a "fokker" a / c "Trigana" for $ 30 - an unforgettable experience in the style of a "dive bomber chronicle"!

Also, if you wish, you can fly directly to Surabaya and Yogyakarta on Citilink aircraft. Tickets are sold at airport ticket offices and travel agencies. Arriving guests of the island are transported to cities and resorts by taxi. You should ignore the intrusive bombers, go through the parking lot to the road and catch blue taxis with a meter - a trip to Mataram will cost 6,000 - 7,000 Rp (3 km south).

Lombok's main western gate is at Lembar (Lembar), where ferries from the Balinese Padangbai moor every hour and a half. The ticket is inexpensive - 15,000 Rp, but for vehicle you will have to pay extra, from 40,000 Rp for a motorbike to 225,000 Rp for a car. Passengers of buses, scheduled and charter, do not need to pay anything extra. Ferry tickets are sold at the box office, cunning port scammers claim that the box office is closed, but you should not believe them. Huge Pelni ferries from other Indonesian islands also dock at the port. Because of their deadly slow speed, they are rarely used by tourists. From Lembar to Mataram can be reached by motorbike along beautiful road for 25,000 Rp or by taxi.

Those wishing to continue their journey east to the Nusa Tenggara Islands (Sumbawa - Komodo - Flores) use east port Kayangan (Kyangan) in Labuan Lombok (Labuhan Lombok) where ferries depart every hour for Sumbawa (Rp 9,000, transport surcharge). It is connected to Mataram by a good road and numerous buses departing from the Bertais city bus station. ("Bertais") (2 hours).

Generally, bus service, starting from the trans-island Jakarta - Sape (sape) (Sumbawa Island) and ending with daily tourist charters of the Regatta company to all Bali resorts - the cheapest and most popular means of communication with the outside world. The easiest way to get there is from Denpasar (6 - 7 hours, 90 000 Rp) and Sumbawa Besar (Sumbawa Besar) (6 hours, 65,000 Rp). The trip from Jakarta will turn into an extreme 32 hours in a smoky bus for 300,000 Rp - very cheap, but incredibly angry.

Helpful information

The Tourist Office is located at Mataram, Lombok. Jalan Langka, 70, tel.: 0370-631-730. Useful maps and booklets, which, however, are not always available.

We also recommend Bidy Tour in Lombok (Tel: 0370-632-127; www.bidytour-lombok.com). Another reliable travel agency is "Perama Tours" (Tel: 0370-693-007 in Lombok, 0361-751-551 in Bali; www.peramatour.com) offers a variety of excursions, as well as transfers in Lombok and Indonesia.

Solitude and Lombok are practically synonymous words. Tourist infrastructure is most developed in the western part of the island of Senggigi. There, tourists will be able to do nothing and shop with full dedication. The island is famous for its pottery, silk and fabrics with gold and silver thread, handmade by local craftsmen.

Excellent surfing can be found on the other side of the island, in the resort of Kuta (not to be confused with the resort of the same name in Bali).

Search for flights to Denpasar (nearest airport to Lombok)

Rules of conduct and safety

If you are going to visit some remote rural areas on your own, it would be prudent to take care of finding a local guide. Often the inhabitants of such places do not know not only English, but also Indonesian, so it will be possible to communicate with them only in the Sasak language.

In addition, in some places on Lombok, morals are quite strict. If you're planning to visit the countryside, religious sites, or government offices, it's best to wear something more modest. Women on a trip would do well to have a pareo with you - you can put it on if you decide to leave the beach for a while in one swimsuit, besides, it perfectly protects from the sun and wind.

Be careful with local alcohol. On the island, things are not particularly favorable with him, so if it seems to you that you feel worse, it is better to consult a doctor just in case (however, in case of a slight ailment the next morning, it is probably not necessary to go to the hospital).

Be sure to bring insect repellant with you. It is unlikely that you will be bitten by malarial mosquitoes if you rest on one of popular resorts, but it's still pretty sad to itch until the very end of the trip because of one small mistake.

And, what about local traditions - in Lombok it is customary to take off your shoes when entering someone's house (and even to the reception rooms of some companies) and it is not customary to give your left hand or pass something with your left hand to someone with whom you are not too close. Failure to comply with these two rules is considered very rude here.

Holidays on the island of Lombok

Shopping: shops

Pottery, silk and woven products with gold and silver thread, handmade by local craftsmen, are the main souvenirs from Lombok.

Beaches

The island's best beaches are in the Sengjiji area: they are wide, clean and with a blessedly low amount of frying and steaming. A distinctive feature of the Lombok coast is beaches with grains of sand the size of a pea of ​​black pepper in a gray-beige color. A handful of such sand is another important souvenir that is taken away from Lombok.

Kitchen

The word "lombok" is translated from Indonesian as "chili pepper", however local kitchen basically not as sharp as one might think.

One of the island's most popular dishes is called ayam taliwang. The locals can't agree on exactly which recipe should be considered authentic, but the most common variation of the dish is chicken in a rather spicy tomato sauce with lots of spices. Its taste can be both mild and very spicy, so it's best to check when you order.

One of the things not to be missed when visiting Lombok is the local traditional massage.

The main food of the inhabitants of the island and an obligatory item on the menu of any cafe is rice with various additives. In terms of the amount of rice consumed, the islanders are hardly inferior to the Japanese, and the additives are quite diverse. In addition to vegetables (this is a mandatory part of the program), nuts, fish, chicken, meat or tofu can be added to rice, and as a condiment, you will probably be offered sambal sauce, which is based on ground red pepper.

Prices in restaurants and cafes in Lombok are highly dependent on their location. Lunch at a restaurant in one of the popular resorts will be quite expensive, and the dishes offered there will be adapted to European cuisine. In other places, you can find many small restaurants called warung, which are more oriented towards locals. If you are interested in traditional cuisine, they are exactly what you need.

Alcoholic drinks can be bought almost everywhere, but since the majority of the population of Lombok is Muslim, in some areas (particularly in Praya) there is a ban on the sale of alcohol in bars and restaurants. Also, alcohol is heavily taxed throughout Indonesia - it could very well be that a bottle of wine ends up being the most expensive meal on your order.

Popular hotels in Lombok

Entertainment and attractions of Lombok

There are interesting excursions to the Rinjani volcano, the Sendang Gila waterfall and the Danau-Segara-Anae lake. In the sea in the neighborhood are three coral islands Gili (Gili): Gili Air, Gili Meno and Gili Trawangan, with white sand beaches, coves with clear water and coral reefs. You can get to the nearest of them in 15 minutes by ferry - this is perfect place for picnics, diving and snorkelling. In addition, there are several villages-museums of Lombok Aboriginal Sasaks on the island.

One of the things not to be missed when visiting Lombok is the local traditional massage. You don’t even need to go anywhere for this, you can get a massage right on the beach, under the relaxing sound of the waves. In addition to the fact that this massage is extremely pleasant, it is believed that it has an excellent therapeutic effect. It is still one of the main methods of treating many diseases among Sasak healers and is very popular among all segments of the island's population.

Fishing is another traditional entertainment on the island. There are many places where you can rent a boat with everything. necessary equipment and go fishing in the sea - for a day or more. It's very relaxing, but be careful - it's worth keeping an eye on the weather forecast and don't swim too far.

And if you want more active rest- on the island there are excellent bike tours for you, where you can stretch your muscles after lying on the beach while the guide tells about local attractions.