Pass 1a category of difficulty. Below is a list of mountain passes in the Western Caucasus

Report
about the mountain tourist training
hike of the second category of difficulty
in the Western Caucasus,
committed by a group of tourists from the mountain tourism club "Serpentin" (Sochi)
from 11 to 24 July 2008

2.8. Technical description of the route

Wake up at 6:20. Partly cloudy. The state of the group is combat.

Pass Duritsky was visible to us from the lane. Ak-Ayry Vost., now, respectively, we see it from the parking lot.

We leave at 8:00. Directly in front of us is a U-shaped scree-grass saddle. This is the false pass of Duritsky, it leads to the valley of the Belaya River. Our pass is located to the left (west) and is hidden from us by a destroyed rocky ridge. We go along the path along the bottom of the circus and climb to the next terrace of the valley. We keep to the left side in the direction of travel. Tours are stacked in places where screes come out. At 8:48 we stop for a 10-minute halt on the next terrace. Having passed along a wide snow-covered gutter formed by the main ridge and an old ram's forehead at the bottom of the circus, we exit under the pass take-off.

The pass rise from the east is a conglomerate scree with a steepness of 30-40 degrees and a length of about 100 m, flattening upwards. At the moment of passing in the upper part there was a small snowfield.

At 10:10 the group climbed the pass. Pass Duritsky 1A *, 3000 m, located in the Arkasar ridge, connects the valleys of the Amanauz and Burnaya rivers (a tributary of the Bolshaya Laba), has an E-W orientation. Represents a wide (about 50 m) scree saddle of destroyed rocks. Tour in the middle.

In the east we see the dominant c. Pshish, to the right of it is visible the city of Chuchkhur, even to the right of the city of Sofia. In the west, the city of Dukka-Bashi is visible in the Arkasar ridge, per. Dorbun, d/r Burnaya, d/r B.Laba.

A note from a group of tourists from the tourist club "Citadel", Belarus, Brest, dated August 18, 2008, was found in the tour.

At the pass we eat a chocolate bar, take a photo, leave a note and at 10:50 we begin the descent.

The descent begins in the southwestern part and is a scree 50 m long.

The steepness is up to 40 degrees, the scree is small, mobile. Then an exit to a snowfield of the same steepness, which flattens down the valley. Crossing a couple of snowfields and scree, we make a halt at 12:25 at the bottom of the valley of the right tributary of the river. Stormy under the lane. Dorbun.

We confer with the whole group about the further path of movement. There are two options. First: go down to the confluence of the right and left tributaries of the river. Stormy, then go up the left tributary to the circus of the passes of Poachers and Vorontsov-Velyaminov. Second: Going down to the confluence, cross the buttress separating the right and left rivers. Stormy.

After consulting, we accept the second option, considering it more interesting and panoramic.

Then we go to the south, starting the traverse of the scree spur of the ridge. Climbing the spur, we find out that the ridge is single, but cut by scree couloirs into rays converging in the upper part. We are on the northernmost beam. The extreme southern beam is turned towards us by a large number of simple rock outcrops on a steep grassy slope, overcoming which will require a significant expenditure of effort. Therefore, we climb up our ridge to the place where the rays converge. The steepness of the slope is about 20-30 degrees. Crossing the snowfield.

We walk along the snowfield of the ridge that has not melted the supercharging and cross the supercharging of the upper part in the place of its flattening and go out to the ridge dividing the tributaries.

We cross the ridge, which is a large-stone scree of medium steepness, and we have a panorama overlooking the Vorontsov-Velyaminov glacier and the valley of the river. Stormy. The path of the ascent to the lane is completely visible. Vorontsov-Velyaminov.

At 13:20 in this panoramic place we stop for a halt to enjoy the beauty of the views. At 13:40 we start descending from the ridge, represented by a grassy-scree slope with a steepness of about 30 degrees. At 14:00 we stop on a gently sloping grassy terrace, where we stop for lunch. From the terrace we have a great view of the lane. Poachers, where we soon notice a group of Timofeev D.V.

In the parking lot there is a powerful stream, where we take water.

We observe the group of D.V. Timofeev descending from the pass. When they descended below the level of our terrace, we establish a voice connection with them. After talking and learning the latest news, we return to our business. Because we have two half-walks left to go, during lunch we dry things, rest.

At 16:35 we descend from the place of lunch by a traverse down the sloping medium stone scree to the lake in the circus per. Poachers. On the lake 16:50 a small halt.

At 17:00 we leave along the sloping scree plateau of the retreating glacier to the right of the nunatak, which separates the two branches of the Vorontsov-Velyaminov glacier. We plan to go to the left-bank moraine, where, according to the description, there are places for overnight stays. Steepness up to 15 degrees. Approaching the slope of the moraine, we find sites for three tents.

There is a stream nearby, so at 17:15 we stop here for a halt. As it turned out later, there are indeed many sites for tents on the ridge, but there is no water.

We set up camp and have dinner at 19:30. Partly cloudy. Tours approached the camp in the evening.

The group is in good condition.

The number of difficulty categories in all types of active tourism is 6. With the increase in the difficulty category of the hike, its difficulty increases from I to VI (Table 1). The difficulty category of the route is determined by the local obstacles encountered on its way. In trekking (mountain tourism) these are passes, in water tourism - rapids, in speleotourism - caves, etc. In turn, local obstacles can also be divided into several categories of difficulty. The category of difficulty is used in the context of the hike in general, and the category of difficulty is used for local obstacles on the tourist route.

Table 1 - Guidelines for hiking in active tourism

In trekking, the hiking route must be linear or circular and make up at least 75% of the entire route. This is done so that in case of a lack of distance for crediting in the IWC, tourists can make radial exits. "Radial" is counted in one direction, if the return is on the same path.

The difficulty of climbing in mountaineering is determined by the complexity of a particular route to the mountain peak. There are also 6 categories of difficulty, divided into 2 semi-categories A and B (1A c.s. in mountaineering is not included in the category offset). Route complexity categories are determined by the difficulty of local sections, which are also 6 from I to VI. There is also an international methodology for assessing the difficulty of rocky areas UIAA– Union of International Mountaineering Associations. The classification is presented by 11 k.t. from I to XI. It can be viewed.

In trekking, passes are mainly local obstacles (Table 2). There are 3 main categories, divided into semi-categories as well as in mountaineering - A and B. There are passes without k.t. – uncategorized (n/c are indicated on the maps). Traverses and climbing peaks can be included in the trekking offset. Here it is necessary to correctly translate the climbing category of difficulty into trekking. Approximately it looks like this:

- the nature of the most difficult sections of the pass;

- the equipment, tactics of movement and features of overnight accommodations necessary to overcome the pass;

- quantitative characteristics (movement time, number of insurance points);

- necessary special equipment ( Popchikovsky V.Yu.).

In the offset of the route, any c.s. includes several passes (Table 2). The minimum number of passes of one or another difficulty has been established. At the same time, the maximum number of passes in one route can be increased by 2. A tourist group can include passes of any difficulty, not exceeding the complexity of the hike. It is worth noting that, starting from the hike of the III k.s., the group has the right to decide for themselves which pass is more logical to pass.

Table 2 - Standards for the category of difficulty of trekking trips

*in route VI class. possible variant. 2B - 1 pc, 3A - 3 pcs, 3B - 1 pc.

The complexity of the passes is determined as follows (Table 3).

Table 3 - Criteria for assessing the difficulty of passes

(Table from the book "Russian Tourist. Normative acts on sports and health tourism in Russia for 2001-2004")

The criteria for assessing routes to mountain peaks include:

is the absolute height of the vertex;

- the length of the route;

- the steepness of the slopes, the nature of the relief;

— technical complexity of individual sections;

- the total number of sections of varying degrees of difficulty on the way to the top;

– approaches and descent from the summit are not included in the route difficulty category.

In general, they are similar to the assessment of the passes. The complexity of climbing routes is determined as shown in tables 4 and 5.

Table 4 - Criteria for assessing the complexity of routes to mountain peaks

There is no official assessment of backcountry routes in the post-Soviet space. The category of complexity of backcountry routes is closely intertwined with the complexity of climbing and tourist routes (Table 6).

Table 6 - Evaluation of the complexity of backcountry routes ( Vitaly Rage)

Methods for categorizing other types of active tourism can be viewed in detail in this book on pages 86-115. Vostokov I.E., Panov S.N. Russian tourist. Normative acts on sports and health tourism in Russia for 2001-2004. - M., 2001. Download .

Officially, the passage of routes can be issued in Federation of Sports Tourism and Tourist All-Around, we have such. On the site you can find various information about tourist and sports events on active types of tourism: competitions, touriades, festivals, water regattas, etc. throughout Kazakhstan. But this is if you want to become an athlete, if not, then join us.

Going around the rocky foothills near the lake, the trail climbs first along a grassy slope, then goes to the scree and along it, serpentine, goes in the direction of the passage between the rocky outcrops. We start climbing it and, after 20 minutes, we come to a fork in the trails. Altitude 3633 m, coordinates 42.3217616603 78.5256071482.

We choose the left path, which traverses the talus and gradually rises towards the pass. The right path goes down, along a grassy slope with stones, towards the Aksai-Travel campground, and then to the lake shore.

The ascent along the trail is not difficult, but monotonous (this is true for the entire trail up to the pass itself). We go slowly, inspect the rocks to the left of the path. In principle, here you can find places for training, but there are not very many flat areas where one could gather under the rocks, they are surrounded by scree plumes, there is no water along the entire length of the ascent.

The trail gradually turns to the pass. Crossing the scree, going in ridges, it periodically descends and rises, but the general nature of the ascent is a traverse of the scree slope with a slight climb. Almost all the time the trail goes under the rocks, crossing the talus in their upper part. 10-15 minutes before the pass, we reach a local flattening - the scree here is larger, the path is lost on it, the path is marked with tours. We climb the pass in 1 hour 10-20 minutes from the fork in the trails with one 10-minute halt. The saddle of pass 16 is wide, talus, with the remains of snow cornices hanging from it. These are the only patches of snow on the pass rise on both sides of the pass, dry. To the east, there is a view of the upper reaches of the Keldyke River.

Having gathered at the pass, we admire the magnificent views of the lake, the surrounding peaks and glaciers. Altitude 3920 m. At 13:55 we start descending from the pass. We go down not to the camp, but to the shore of the lake (after about 20 minutes of descent, we leave it along the path and, along one of the screes, we go down to the water). Here, on a green terrace with a brook, we get up for lunch, finding a dry place (the shore of the lake is swampy). We went down here from the pass for 30 minutes.

2. Panoramic Pass 1B 3700 (1A 3500)???

Wake up 5:00-5:30, exit at 7:15. Overcast, completely calm, temperature + 8 °. The water in the lake is like a mirror; By the time we leave, a slight breeze picks up. The trail to the Panoramic Pass goes at a distance of a couple of tens of meters from the water with a traverse of a scree slope, marked by turiks. After 10 minutes, when overcoming rocky outcrops, it is divided into several, which then converge again. Suddenly, in front, behind the circus of the pass, a massive rockfall descends: along one of the couloirs, large stones fly from the ridge line to the water and, falling into the lake, raise giant fountains. Alarmed, we quickly pass the rest of the path under the rocks and make a halt at the entrance to the scree circus of the pass. Further ascent to the pass passes along medium and shallow scree with patches of land, the steepness is up to 20°. In some places there is a trail, the scree is mostly stable. We leave the pass at 8:45. It is windy and cool here (+8°), the panorama is hidden by clouds. We walk along a wide ridge in an easterly direction. There are no notes on the tour. Many participants are a little "bothered". We start the descent at 9:35 diagonally to the right to reach the wide scree slope of the southern slope c. 30 years of the Komsomol. Underfoot there is a small moving scree, there is a semblance of a path. We pass the beginning of the rock-scree couloir, along which sometimes there is an ascent to the pass from the south-west, we descend 70 meters along the ridge limiting the couloir on the right (remains of the path), then we again go to the right, onto a wide slope, choosing areas of smaller scree. Then we go down this slope to the grass in a dense group, laying serpentines 35 minutes from the pass. The steepness of the slope is up to 25°, the drop in height is 350 m. With the beginning of the descent, the weather improves, the sun comes out, and the clouds gradually stretch. You can spend the night in the circus, but you will have to look for water closer to the port side. We start descending from the circus along the grassy slopes of the ancient moraines, first down, then going to the left side of the gorge. There is no good path, there are stones under the grass in some places, it is not very convenient to go. In 20 minutes we reach a grassy ledge (shoulder) over a steep grassy slope leading to the Keltor River. We decide to go down not directly along the stream, but by an oblique traverse to the left, in the direction of the upper reaches of the Keltor. After a few minutes of descent from the ledge along the grass to 20°, we find an old, weak path that goes in the right direction. In places it is lost, but then it is found again. The trail makes the journey much easier. After 20 minutes of descent, we cross two shallow dry sai, then before entering the forest the path again becomes more obvious, however, judging by the protruding branches of fir and juniper, cattle have not been driven along it for a very long time. In a rare forest, the path descends in a gentle serpentine and leads to a clearing overgrown with burdock and sorrel near a dilapidated bridge over the Keltor. When driving in the opposite direction, it is very desirable to find this path, which can be difficult: its beginning from the river is poorly read. The descent is clearly visible from the Teleta river valley. In 15 minutes we reach a clearing near the river from under the Black Stones Pass along the familiar path and set up camp on it.

Notes:

1. The technical complexity of the sections given in columns 2, 3 and 4 and the ways to overcome them are characteristic only for this category of difficulty of the passes and do not occur when overcoming the passes of the previous categories. It is allowed to have sections of any length with the complexity typical for the passes of the previous categories.
2. Belay points are places (positions) for securing and etching the rope with an ice ax, hooks with carabiners, rocky ledges, ice columns, over the shoulder, lower back, etc. descent.
3. The presence of potentially dangerous areas (rockfalls, avalanches, ice falls) does not affect the difficulty category of the pass and should be taken into account in the tactics of passage and in the selection of equipment.
4. To pass passes of any category of difficulty in winter conditions or with deep snow on the slopes, it is additionally required to have avalanche cords (20 m) for each participant and avalanche shovels, one for every 2-3 people.

In sports tourism, a pass is a logical place for a given route to cross the watershed line of the ridge. Thus, in sports tourism, a pass is far from always the lowest and most accessible place in the crest of a mountain range or massif.

Many sports passes are not passed through the lowest place in this part of the ridge, simply because there is an easier and safer way nearby (higher up the ridge), for example, bypassing difficult rocks and rock-falling sections of the route.

There are many sports passes that, from the point of view of the layman, look like madness: there is a simple, convenient path through the ridge nearby, and tourists climb "sheer cliffs". Such passes are passed in order to improve sportsmanship and prepare for more difficult hikes without leaving the easily accessible mountainous areas. A large number of such passes have been passed in recent years on the Kola Peninsula and the Urals.

Pass classification

In sports tourism, passes are classified into categories of difficulty, which reflect the difficulty of the pass when passing it by tourists. The category of difficulty is determined by an assessment based on several features that characterize the degree of accessibility of the pass: height above sea level, steepness of slopes, the nature of their surface, techniques used when passing the pass, accommodation conditions. There are 3 categories of difficulty, each of which is divided into semi-categories A and B. Passes of category 1-A are considered the easiest, 3-B - the most difficult. Passes, the complexity of which is below 1-A, are usually classified as non-categorical. Passes, the complexity of which can increase by a semi-category depending on weather and other conditions (snowfall, sudden icing of slopes, etc.), are additionally classified with an asterisk. For example, 2-A*.

In the "List of classified passes of high mountains" and "List of classified passes of middle mountains" for each pass its location, name, height above sea level, category of difficulty for different seasons, rivers and glaciers on both sides of the pass, passage features, obstacles, dangers are indicated. The category of difficulty for each pass is periodically re-evaluated by a specially created commission.

Pass Difficulty Evaluation Table

Notes:
* Belay points are places where the rope is fixed and etched with an ice ax, hooks with carabiners, rocky ledges, ice posts, over the shoulder, lower back, etc., necessary for attaching the railing and for belaying the first person on the ascent and the last one on the descent.
* The presence of potentially dangerous areas (rockfalls, avalanches, ice falls) does not affect the difficulty category of the pass and should be taken into account in the tactics of passage and in the selection of equipment.
* To pass passes of any category of difficulty in winter conditions or with deep snow cover on the slopes, it is additionally required to have avalanche cords (20 m) for each participant and avalanche shovels, one for every 2-3 people.