Once founded by the Genoese and remaining a true European quarter until the beginning of the 20th century, this area is today a favorite meeting place for Istanbul's youth. An introductory walk through this part of the city usually takes three to four hours and starts from the Galata Tower.

Built in 1348, the tower has a circular observation deck on its last floor, from which a wonderful panorama of the Golden Horn Bay and most of the Old City opens. After admiring the views of the city, we set off from the tower along Galip Dede street up the hill. Having walked about halfway up the street, to the intersection with Istiklal Street, we see on the right side "Teutonia" - a gray stone building, which for a long time was the center of the German community in Istanbul and which today houses a branch of the famous Goethe Institute. Regular exhibitions are held on the ground floor of the building. And a little further and up the street, before reaching Tunel Square, there is the famous De Pera antique bookstore, which sells unique old books. Directly opposite the shop we see the inconspicuous entrance to Galata Mevlevihanesi - the monastery of the dervishes of Galata. Today, dervishes are no longer found in the monastery. Instead, there is a museum of ancient musical instruments and manuscripts. A small and well-maintained historical cemetery has been preserved in the courtyard of the former monastery.

We turn right and in just a few steps we get to Tunel, to the upper exit of the underground funicular, the line of which starts at the bottom, near the bay. Built in 1875, the subway (namely, this is how they proudly call this transport line), is one of the oldest in the world (second after London), but at the same time the shortest. Its length is only 573 meters. In front of the subway entrance, there is the terminus of the Tunel - Taksim tram line, which is a tourist attraction. The trams here have been preserved in the form in which they traveled back in the 19th century, and tourists enjoy admiring the views of Istiklal Street from the windows of retro cars. Directly opposite the entrance to the subway there is a passage where you can visit one of the most beautiful cafes in Beyoğlu. It is called K & V and is open daily from 9 am to 10 pm. From behind the tables here you can contemplate interior passage - an atrium, in which you can also see a lot of antique rarities and curiosities.

We pass along the passage further, to Asmali Meskit Sokak street. This short street, not exceeding hundreds of meters, is home to two more exquisite antique shops, as well as several expensive cafes and small shopping galleries. A little further, on the left, in Sebender Sokak lane, is "Babylon", one of the most popular places in Istanbul among fans of rock, pop and jazz. In addition, various performances, shows and revues are staged here. Not far from Sebender Sokak, we pass the legendary pub of artists and intellectuals "Refik" (open from Monday to Saturday, from 9 pm to 1 am), where we turn left again onto Asmali Mesquite and head down the slope. At the end of the street, we turn left and find ourselves in front of the once famous Pera Palace hotel in Istanbul. This building witnessed the "golden age" and hosted guests with world-famous names. But even today the hotel is worthy of a visit here.

From Pera Palace we continue along Mesrutiyet Caddesi and along the large square, past the Italian cultural center to Odakule, a high-rise office center. From here we walk along the pedestrian street to Istiklal Caddesi - the main artery of the Beyoglu district and one of the most important centers of business life in Istanbul. When a meeting is arranged in Istanbul, in the overwhelming majority of cases, a place is appointed in restaurants or cafes in the side streets of Istiklal. And those who are going to the cinema start watching the repertoire from the cinemas located in the area. Most of the city's discos and opportunities to listen to music are concentrated here. The section in front of Odakule is considered one of the quietest and most peaceful on the entire street. We turn left and immediately see on the right side slightly separated from the general line of buildings deep into the largest Catholic church in Istanbul - the Church of St. Anton.

A little further on, the street turns into a small square with huge wrought iron gates. Behind these gates is located Galatasaray Lisesi - an elite French-Turkish gymnasium with a long tradition. In the 1990s, mothers of those killed and missing during the Kurdish war gathered in front of the gates of the gymnasium every Saturday, expressing their protest against the policy of the authorities. Opposite the gate is the entrance to Chisek Pasazhi. This beautiful Art Nouveau arcade is literally overflowing with restaurants, where life reaches its zenith in the evening and at night. If we pass through the passage, then we will get directly to Galatasarayalik Pazari, the most beautiful fish, vegetable and fruit market in the city. This market is a real treat for the eyes and worth a walk even when you are not going to buy anything. At the very beginning of the market, on the right side, behind a large iron gate and without any sign (if necessary, of course, you can ask the merchants), there is Yuk Horan, one of the most beautiful Armenian churches Istanbul. Going a little further and turning right, we get to a small street with simple but very good fish restaurants. This restaurant street called Nevizade Sokak is the most the best place to Beyoglu in order to taste "meze" for little money - typical Istanbul snacks and eat under open sky deliciously cooked fish.

At the end of the restaurant street we turn right and again we get to Istiklal Caddesi. And here we find ourselves in the very center of human flows, trade and entertainment. From here to Taksim Square, endless rows of cinemas, cafes and restaurants, interspersed with chic boutiques and old shopping arcades, stretched in uninterrupted rows. Among them, one can single out the passage "Atlas", which will be interesting to see for everyone.

Before reaching Taksim Square, we see the building of the French Consulate. And to the right of it, a sign with the words "Haci Baba" shows us the way to a place where you can have a great lunch, with traditional cuisine and on an open terrace. Here, in a wonderful Turkish restaurant, we finish this walk.

70

It is no secret that Istanbul is on the list of the most visited tourist cities in the world. Every year, millions of travelers come to see the last capital of the Ottoman Empire.

Those who are in Istanbul for the first time should remember that seeing the city in one trip is an unbearable task, but getting to know the heritage of one of the popular areas is a completely doable task. Most often, acquaintance begins with the Sultanahmet district, where the unique Blue Mosque and the unique historical monument - the Hagia Sophia Museum are located, or with Beyoglu - the entertainment center of Istanbul. It's about him interesting places and attractions that are definitely worth a visit, we will tell in this article.

Usually, a trip to Beyoglu begins with Taksim Square - a landmark for all tourists, not only in the area, but throughout Istanbul. Next to the square is a street where shuttle buses arrive from the city's airports. There is also a metro station and stops. land transport, which means that from here you can get to anywhere in Istanbul and come back.

It is from Taksim Square that the legendary pedestrian street Istiklal (Turkish: İstiklâl Caddesi) originates, which once bore the not-quite-Turkish name Grand Rue De Pera. Thousands of people walk along it every day: locals and tourists come here to shop in an endless number of shops. The street itself resembles an open-air museum of European architecture. Here you can just walk and look at the buildings built in the neoclassical, modern and art nouveau styles. On both sides of Istiklal, the facades of various consulates delight the eye, educational institutions and passages. Be sure to check out the Flower Passage (tour. Çiçek Pasajı), where white emigrants who left Russia because of the 1917 revolution traded flowers a century ago in search of at least some kind of income.

Almost at the start pedestrian street, a little hidden from the crowds of people, stands one of the largest Orthodox churches in Istanbul - the Church of the Holy Trinity, built at the end of the 19th century. You will notice its majestic dome and two bell towers from Taksim Square. The church is active and services are held in it. In the heart of the former Grand Rue De Pera, there is another church - the Catholic Basilica of St. Anthony of Padua. This is magnificent building will be of particular interest to connoisseurs of architecture.

At the end of Independence Street, as İstiklâl is translated from Turkish, you should definitely look into another historically important place. It is underground. This is a tunnel through which it is easiest and fastest to get from the Beyoglu region to Karakoy. The tunnel is one of the oldest in the world. It functioned even during the Ottoman Empire. The construction of the underground path was completed in the second half of the 19th century. Today, a modern funicular trailer runs there, thanks to which you will cover a distance of half a kilometer in just two minutes.

For art lovers, the Beyoglu district has prepared two valuable gifts. This is the museum-gallery of Pera, located on Meshrutiyet Street (tur. Meşrutiyet Caddesi). It houses a collection of paintings by prominent Ottoman, Turkish and European masters. The most valuable of them is a painting by Osman Hamdi Bey called "Turtle Trainer", which the founders of the museum purchased for $3.5 million in 2004.

Next to the Pera Gallery is the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art, which has several exhibition halls, a library, and a cafe. It also hosts various educational activities. The museum has been located in the Beyoglu district since the beginning of this year. He found a temporary home here, having moved from the Karakoy region. He will return back to the shores of the Bosphorus in a few years, when a new luxurious building will be built for the museum.

One more iconic place This is the Pera Palace Hotel. It was built in 1892 to accommodate the passengers of the famous Orient Express, a luxury train that carried the world's elite from Paris to Istanbul. At the time of opening, it was the most luxurious hotel in the capital of the Ottoman Empire, with such benefits of civilization as hot water, electricity and an electric lift. Among the famous guests of the hotel are the British King Edward VIII, the "father of the Turkish nation" Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, Alfred Hitchcock, Alexander Vertinsky, Joseph Brodsky, Leon Trotsky, Ernest Hemingway, Mata Hari. Agatha Christie also loved to stay at this hotel. It is believed that this is where she wrote her famous novel"Murder on the Orient Express"

Pera Palace is a functioning hotel to this day. To enjoy the luxurious interior of the legendary hotel, to feel its unique spirit, it is not necessary to fork out for a five-star room. You can just have a cup of tea or coffee in the lobby, where the elite of the Old World and the Eastern shahs once rested.

Don't forget to visit perhaps the most famous building Beyoglu district famous tower Galata, built in the 14th century. Her silhouette is one of the most iconic symbols of Istanbul. From the top of the medieval landmark, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the entire city.

Of course, this is far from full list all the pearls of Beyoglu. You can completely devote your whole life to this area, gradually discovering the mood of its alleys, studying the unique history of buildings and their former residents, getting acquainted with souvenir shops and antiques shops.

Ekaterina Kislyak, writer and photographer, especially for MK-Turkey

Today, the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul can be called an autonomous settlement, consisting of 45 separate parts. Currently, about 225,000 residents permanently live on its territory. But since Beyoglu is the center of business, recreation and culture, life in it does not stop for a minute. Every day there are up to several million visitors, which include both the Turks themselves and tourists.

Beyoglu district in Istanbul

In Byzantine times, this area was called the Vineyards of Pern. For a long time, foreigners called Beyoglu simply Pera, and locals called it more widely - Pera Beyoglu. The last part of this name nevertheless began to dominate over time, and the name of Per was completely forgotten after it was withdrawn from official circulation in 1925.

The history of Beyoglu is very rich and varied. The settlement of these territories began about 8 thousand years ago. Replacing each other, a variety of peoples lived here - from the Thracians to the Greeks and the ancient Romans, but before the Ottomans came to power, the area was minimally developed and was considered just a suburb of Constantinople, although important in terms of trade.

Active development began in 1492, when water supply was established in Beyoglu and foreign embassies began to concentrate here. The area between Galatasaray and Tunel began to develop not only as a commercial, but also as a residential area.

Due to the fact that foreigners lived in Beyoglu almost from its very foundation, the area turned out to be much more Europeanized than other similar areas of Istanbul.

Mass building "under Europe" began in the 20s of the 20th century, during the reign of Kemal Ataturk, who was famous for his progressive views and moods. However, the monuments ancient architecture, such as the Galata Tower, have been preserved.

Until 1927, the most famous street in the area, Istiklal, was called Cadde-i Kebir (Cadde-i Kebir), Büyük Cadde (Big Street - Büyük Cadde) or Grande Rue de Péra in French.

It is worth saying a little more about the sights of Beyoglu.

Attractions Beyoglu (Beyoğlu)

Among the sights of Beyoglu - Galata Tower

Beyoglu is a storehouse of everything unusual and interesting. It is very difficult to single out one thing in a series of historical and modern cultural monuments, but there are several places that you should definitely visit.

Arabic mosque: This Istanbul shrine dates back to 1337. The initiators of its construction were the Genoese. Initially, it played the role of a Latin church, but with the advent of Muslim conquerors, it was turned into a mosque with extremely interesting architecture (a mixture of stone and wood).

: the construction dates back to 1348. The height of the tower allows you to see the beauty of Istanbul at a glance. Therefore, travelers are happy to pay for an entrance ticket in order to enjoy the breathtaking city panorama.

Church of Christ: interesting not only from a historical, but also from an architectural point of view. The interior decoration is striking in its splendor. Many people talk about unusual church acoustics, so it is worth visiting Christ Church during the service.

Jewish Museum of Turkey: Not far from the Galata Bridge is the beautiful Jewish Synagogue of Zilfaris. It was within its walls at the beginning of the 21st century that a compact museum complex. A small but harmonious collection tells about the historical and cultural relationship between Jews and Muslims.

Church of St. Mary Draperis (Santa Maria Draperis Kilisesi). In the central part of the Istanbul district of Beyoglu, the famous Catholic shrine rises - the Latin church of St. Mary Draperi. The landmark, dating back to the 17th century, has been badly damaged by fires several times in its history, but each time it has been restored. Modern look The church was acquired thanks to the famous architect from Italy, to whom the ruler Abdulahmet II issued permission for the reconstruction of the Catholic monastery in 1904.

Salt Galata Cultural Center: This is one of the main attractions of Beyoglu. A large number of exhibition areas of various directions are located on an impressive territory. Scientific conferences and seminars are regularly held here. Extensive research activities have been launched on the basis of the cultural center. The building itself is also an architectural monument, erected at the end of the 19th century under the direction of the architect Alexander Vallor and modernized with the help of the architectural bureau Mimarlar Tasarym.

You can also look at the Fish Market (Balık pazarı) - the name of the market is conditional, since in fact everything is sold here, fruits, vegetables, seafood, spices, sweets, leather goods and much more. In front of the entrance to it there is an arch with a sign erected in honor of his 150th birthday.

These are not all the sights of Beyoglu, which should be paid close attention to the guests of the city. Of great interest are the Mevlevi Museum in Galata, the Depo Cultural Center, Casa Galeri and much, much more.

Taksim Square (Taksim Meydanı) in Beyoğlu

Taksim Square in Istanbul (Taksim Meydanı)

Especially in detail it is necessary to study the local Taksim square. It can be called a kind of border line between the old and the new city. Around the square are luxury hotels and hotels, expensive and budget establishments. Catering etc. The transport network is very developed. Taksim Square is a traditional venue for large-scale public events and military parades.

A large number of attractions of the area are concentrated on this territory - the park of the same name Taksim, the Independence Monument, the Holy Trinity Church, the Ataturk Cultural Center, the Taksim Mosque, the Taksim Art Gallery and much more.

Not far from the square, the famous Istanbul street Istiklal originates, leading to historical Center Beyoglu.

It is on Taksim Square that official demonstrations are often held. By the way, it is here that Gezi Park is located nearby, due to the demolition of which strikes began in Taksim in 2013. As a result, after lengthy skirmishes, the demolition of the park was stopped.

Fans of Galatasaray and Beşiktaş also gather in the square after matches.

Interestingly, the square has been reconstructed a significant number of times, the architectural appearance has been improved, but at the same time, the general style that appeared in the late 30s of the 20th century through the efforts of the Frenchman Henri Prost has been preserved to this day.

The Marmara Taksim Hotel in Beyoglu

There are a lot of hotels in this area, respectively, and the range of prices is quite large. The most popular hotels are as follows:

• Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah
• Gezi Hotel Bosphorus
• Tomtom Suites
• Rixos Pera Istanbul
• Radisson Blu Hotel Istanbul Pera
• Witt Istanbul Suites
• Corinne Hotel
• Georges Hotel Galata
• CVK Park Bosphorus Hotel Istanbul

If you are going to spend most of your time on excursions and trips, then of course it makes no sense to take an expensive hotel, given that you will only spend the night in it. I advise you to spend more time walking, have breakfast outside the hotel in picturesque places- it is much more interesting, and will also give you the opportunity to get to know Turkish cuisine and flavor better.

Shopping in Beyoglu: Istiklal Street (Istiklal Caddesi)

Istiklal Street in Istanbul (Istiklal Caddesi)

concentration a large number stores is Istiklal Street, which stretches from Taksim Square to final stop the famous red tram.

Here you can find everything: souvenirs, clothes, silver and gold, cosmetics, shoes, antiques, Turkish sweets and much more.

Therefore, when you are going for a walk along the boulevard, plan your time taking into account the fact that you want to look into different shops and this will not be limited to one or two hours.

Basically, all stores are open as freestanding, shopping center here is one and a small one - Demirören Avm. On the ground floor there is a large department of Sephora, there are also departments of Gizia, DeFacto, Vakko (brand clothing store), Brandroom (brand clothing store), Guess, Gap, Koton and others.

Throughout Istiklal Street you can find shops: Colins's, Mango, H&M, Adidas, Lacoste, Diesel, Flo, Waikiki, MAC, SNR Shop, Kemal Tanca, Hotiç, Tudors, Elle, Mavi, Collezione, New Balance, Yves Rocher, Faik Sonmez and much more (mass market and accessories stores).

Istikal street on the map:

Restaurants and cafes on Istiklal street in Beyoglu

Restaurant 360 Istanbul on Istiklal Street

For lovers of cafes, restaurants and party places in the Beyoglu district on Istiklal Street, as well as on the lanes close to it, you can find a huge number of different establishments, sometimes completely different from each other.

These are fish restaurants, club-restaurants with an unusual view, traditional Turkish kebab restaurants, pide and much more.

I will give examples of those institutions that would be interesting to visit for a tourist.

Flower Arcade (Çiçek Pasajı)

Flower Arcade in Istanbul (Çiçek Pasajı)

First of all, be sure to check out the "Flower Passage" (Çiçek Pasajı), which is a historical landmark of the Beyoglu district. It was partially restored and reconstructed, its approximate age is about 140 years. On the territory now occupied by the building, in the 19th century there was a wooden theater of Mikhail Naum Dukhani.

Today, on the ground floor of the passage, there are restaurants popular with both locals and tourists.

The Flower Passage is interesting not only for its restaurants, but also for its unconventional architecture, which can vaguely resemble the passages of France.

Flower passage on the map

Restaurant-bar Leb-i Derya

Located on the top floor of the Richmond Hotel. The restaurant offers a beautiful view of the strait. Here you can spend the evening both in the format of a restaurant and at the bar overlooking the sea.

On weekends, Leb-i derya plays local DJs, Lounge, Nu Jazz, Electro Bossa, Chillhouse, Nu Disco, Lounge, Jazz, Oldies and Chilout style music.

Prices in the menu for 2017: hot dishes from 36 to 55 Turkish liras, salads from 14 to 20 liras, snacks from 14 to 36 liras, desserts from 8 to 20 liras.

Restaurant ELEOS

Eleos Restaurant in Beyoglu

It is located in an alley next to Istiklal. If you pass the Russian Consulate (it will be on your left), you need to turn into the first lane on the left, after a couple of minutes of walking you will find it.

The view from the top floor of the restaurant is magnificent.

Before visiting, it is advisable to reserve a table, especially if you plan to visit in the evening.

The average bill for 2017 is 245 Turkish Lira for two with alcohol.

360 Istanbul

It is quite famous among tourists and popular place which combines a bar, club and restaurant. Why is it so famous? Of course, with its view of Istanbul, covering all 360 degrees. This beauty is especially breathtaking at night. I advise you to visit for sure!

The concept of the institution: delicious food, atmosphere and relaxation.

Prices on the menu for 2017: starters from 29 to 37 Turkish liras, hot dishes from 55 to 95 liras, alcohol (bottled) from 145 liras (local Turkish wines) to 2250 liras.

Restaurant Barba Rasimo

Quite an old restaurant, with Greek and Turkish cuisine. The restaurant is located on the terrace overlooking the strait and Istanbul.

Hot and cold snacks: from 10 to 30 Turkish liras, salads from 12 to 18 liras, hot dishes from 26 to 35 liras, desserts from 12 to 16 liras.

Finding the Beyoglu area is quite easy. Beyoglu area on the map.

On the Galata Bridge, on foot or by tram, we got to the other side of the Golden Horn, where the Beyoglu quarter or ancient Pera or modern Karakoy stretched. Once upon a time, fig trees grew here, hence the name.

Galata- the historical core of the Istanbul quarter of Beyoglu.

View of the Galata tower.

Karakey.

Karakey. Istanbul.

The town of Galata was a center mainly for merchants from Genoa. At that time, there was a stormy movement of ships between the two banks, and in order to protect themselves, the Genoese in 1348 built Galata tower.

Galata tower. Istanbul. Turkey.

The tower was significantly damaged during the Fourth Crusade, repaired and enlarged in 1446. The height of the tower is 70 meters, its walls are about 4 meters thick, the outer diameter is 17 meters, and the inner diameter is 9 meters.
In the 17th century, the traveler and romantic Ahmed Celebi Hezarfen made artificial wings and jumped from the tower, he was able to fly over the Bosphorus and landed in Yuskyudar.
The tower now houses a restaurant. beautiful view.

Bankalar Caddesi- Avenue of the Banks, during the Ottoman period was the financial center of Galata.
In 1453, when the Ottomans attacked Constantinople, Pera remained a neutral territory. Later, the expanded Istanbul swallowed up Galata and Peru.
The area is characterized by narrow, steep streets and Libertarian architecture.

Let's go underground Funicular Tunel in Beyoglu on Istiklal street.
The funicular was built in 1875, it connects Karakoy with Beyoglu and rises to a height of 573 meters.

*To get from Sultanahmet to Taksim, you need to take a tram to the Karakoy stop, then climb the Tunel or walk. The second option: take the tram to the final stop Kabatas (Kabatas), then take the funicular to Taksim Square.

Taksim Square- This is the center of modern, lively and crowded. The square got its name from the central distribution (taksim) of water located here during the Ottoman Empire. Nowadays, various ceremonies and meetings take place here.
In the center of the square is the Monument of the Republic, erected in 1928 by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica. It is curious that on the right side of the stone figure of Ataturk are Kliment Voroshilov and Mikhail Frunze, installed in gratitude for military aid Soviet Russia.
From Taksim Square stretches the famous Istiklal Boulevard (Istiklal Caddesi)- Pedestrian area with many shops, cafes, restaurants and clubs. Most of the buildings on the boulevard were built in the Art Nouveau style and date back to the end of the 19th century.

As for shopping, on Istiklal Boulevard there are numerous shops of democratic Turkish and European brands. You can’t find special design delights here, then well-known brands are represented.

Old tram.

Streets of Beyoglu.

Streets of Beyoglu.

On Istiklal Boulevard is the most famous Catholic church - Church of St. Anthony of Padua.

Church of St. Anthony of Padua.

Taksim and Pera are the heart nightlife Istanbul, there are many clubs, restaurants and cafes, every evening and night a crowd of young people flock here in search of entertainment.

Istanbul - city ​​of many faces with its own rhythm, sounds, smells and even a special pink color. This city leaves no chance: either you fall in love with Istanbul, or you hate it from the first time. We somehow got along right away: stepping on the Eminonu embankment, I felt - this is my city, with all its noise, dust and bustle.

For the first time, you should definitely plan the main sights: marvel at the size of the ancient Hagia Sophia, sit on the carpet in the Blue Mosque, go down to the Yerebatan cisterns, climb the Galata tower.

It's traditional a tourist route, and not seeing all this in Istanbul would be an unforgivable mistake. I still cannot forgive myself that I came too late to Istiklal Street and did not catch the famous Istanbul tram - it was already night and it had finished running along fashionable mansions and shops. Three years later, I returned, but the rails were cut, the tram was driven to the depot, and when it starts working again, only God knows (no, rather Allah is his jurisdiction).

And yet, when you come to Istanbul for the second and third time, you can go here endlessly, there is always something else to see, you want to dilute your trips to museums with something special, to see non-postcard views and places where Istanbul residents like to visit and bring their friends and acquaintances.

Karakoy - hipster Istanbul

For those who love cafe gatherings, street art in abandoned houses, art galleries and hipster hangouts, there is a place in Istanbul where the concentration of all of the above just rolls over.

The Karaköy area is located in Beyoğlu between the Galata Bridge, the Museum contemporary art, Kemeralti street and the Bosphorus.

What to do in Karakoy? Drinking coffee in one of the cafes, wandering through the alleys in search of graffiti, listening to street musicians, hanging out in a pub, in general, it will definitely not be boring here. And, of course, the atmosphere!

Kadikoy and Moda quarter - parties, restaurants and bohemia

Having sailed on a boat to the Asian part of Istanbul, you find yourself in a completely different city. There are also mosques here, few tourists, although there are enough backpackers - there are hostels and hotels on every corner. Many cafes and cozy restaurants are adjacent to a small market, including a fish market, where you can taste the freshest fish and shrimp right on the spot.

Little attention is paid to tourists here, everyone is in a hurry, especially when you approach the pier, from where boats leave for the European part and other areas of Asian Istanbul, there is also a bus station and dolmush go to different areas.

At the Kadikoy pier, there is a concentration of banks, Turkish fast food - the usual Simita bagels and "fish burgers" - Balyk Ekmek (by the way, they are here one and a half times cheaper than on Eminonu and I liked the local version of fish with salad in pita, and not in thick bun), fresh juices from oranges and pomegranates, kofte in buns. Food fairs are regularly held, where the variety of street food simply rolls over - if you don’t buy something, you can try cheeses, dried fruits and nuts, pastries different types and varieties and of course Turkish sweets. And do not forget to drink ayran - it is sold in cups and bottles, a straw is attached - we pierce the aluminum membrane and drink ayran on the go.

Unlike the old city - the Fatih or Beyoglu districts, Kadikoy has a completely different atmosphere. Going deep into its streets, you find yourself in the concentration of a huge number of bars, restaurants, bookstores, music shops, fashion boutiques and tattoo parlors.

During the day it is quite quiet here, but in the evening the parties begin: people migrate between bars, drink beer right on the streets, music flows from every institution. If you settle in one of the local hotels or hostels, do not expect silence: the hum of voices, the roar of music will not let you fall asleep until the morning.

The Moda quarter and the embankment that surrounds it are adjacent to party streets and are generally confusing - the question arises: where am I? in Europe or Asia? Apartment buildings of 3-4 floors, mansions overlooking the sea, front gardens and expensive cars. The locals are decorously walking along the embankment, walking their dogs, breathing the sea.

Ships no longer moor at the Moda pier - there is a restaurant in the building, but it is so beautiful that it has become an adornment of the embankment. I can't believe that the bars are occupied around the corner and in the evening you have to squeeze among the people in order to walk along the streets among the bars.

We lived in this area for several days - and once again I want to return.

Istanbul Sapphire - look down

This place is definitely from the category of must visit - the most high point Istanbul. Sapphire is a skyscraper located in the Levent district, with a height of 238 meters and 54 floors. On the upper terrace there is an observation deck where a high-speed elevator leads. The view from there is stunning - in clear weather, most of Istanbul is visible: bridges over the Bosphorus are lit at dusk, thousands of cars are pulled in traffic jams at rush hour, small and large houses, old cemeteries and mosques are preserved between them, adjacent to business centers, sports grounds and squares. It is interesting to watch how planes take off over Sapphire - literally every 2 minutes a liner flies from Ataturk Airport.

Café Vista on the observation deck is available for a glass of tea or a meal if desired. It's a pity that when it's filming time, the cafe lights are reflected in the protective glasses. observation deck. Information for photographers: security prohibits the use of monopods and tripods (this was the case in the spring of 2017 after the Istanbul terrorist attacks). But you can use a spider tripod by attaching it to the back of a chair. I highly recommend this place to visit - a very impressive picture opens from Sapphire.

Kuzguncuk - openwork of wooden houses in Istanbul

Another area on the Asian side of Istanbul is Uskudar and its stunning Kuzguncuk quarter with carved wooden houses. Non-touristic, but so cozy - the best place for breakfasts over the Bosphorus, walks and photo shoots.

Bright wooden houses nestled on steep streets, some of which are exclusively pedestrian - like the slopes in Montmartre.

And cafes with bright awnings add even more resemblance to the Parisian district.

Slowly drinking tea and coffee, Istanbul residents squint their eyes from the blinding spring sun.

Surprisingly, Kuzguncuk is considered one of the tolerant districts of Istanbul: a Christian church, synagogue and mosques coexist here. Another reason to be surprised in multicultural Istanbul.

Eat at the fish market near the Galata Bridge

We looked at this place on our first visit to Istanbul. The fish market near the Galata Bridge is small, but quite famous. Previously, one could easily sit down at one of the tables covered with oilcloth, order Dorado or Grilled red mullet with salad and watch the boats moor at the Karakoy pier. And as the sun, setting over the horizon, paints the Golden Horn Bay pink.

Now, at the place where the tables stood by the water, some kind of construction is going on (they seem to want to make an embankment and a park). And the market was brought to life and a decent fish cafe was made on its territory.

Everything has become more expensive, but always delicious. It is more pleasant and interesting for me to eat fish here together with the locals than in fish restaurants on the Galata Bridge. In the market, no one looks at you ingratiatingly: they just give you the usual laminated menu in a dozen languages, and fifteen minutes later they serve happiness on a plate - very tasty, piping hot :)