Chile - a dream come true! Land of volcanoes and lakes. Climbing Osorno Volcano
Photo report. About the most beautiful and emotionally rich day of our monthly freeride trip in Chile and Argentina.
Everything converged at one point in space and time: weather, mood, luck...
Here he is, the handsome Osorno (2652). The absolute height should not be misleading. From the foot more than 2 km drop.
Two weeks before that, we had already made a sortie here. But then the weather was not at all conducive to the ascent.
The cable cars were not working, and there was no talk of going anywhere but the bar. Luckily, there was a bar there.
It is in this weather that you realize that all these warning signs about mandatory chains ( cadenas) is not an empty word. It was just summer, yesterday, and today at some 1000 meters above sea level it is already winter in full growth and ice on the roads ... That's what it means Small South and Lake District(in Argentina, these latitudes are already boldly referred to as Patagonia).
No visitors. Unless, once an hour, a car arrives with someone from the city to take pictures against the backdrop of the volcano. But all the same, all services at the ski resort work like clockwork, including the coziest bar-cafe (one of the most pleasant in the ski centers of Chile, which we saw here).
That's what it means land of German settlers. Announced that "open until September 31st" so everything will work. Great.
As, however, and work representatives CONAF, an organization that manages the national parks and reserves of Chile, impressive in scope and effectiveness. There are few places where work on the territory of protected areas is so well established as in Chile.
Ossorno refers to one of these, moreover, it is Chile's oldest national park, founded in 1926 (Vicente Perez Rosales). But, no prohibitions and bureaucratic obstacles to visit. Follow the rules and nothing more.
Having left then, and not ascending due to bad weather, we nevertheless returned. This volcano is very beautiful. It generally stands apart among all the Chilean volcanoes in this region. Both literally and figuratively.
We went under the forecast. We had exactly 1 day, and to be precise, only the first half of it.
The cable car was spinning for several people and even kicked out hippie snowcat... Apparently, just for fun, because, of course, they won't waste money until the next season.
The prices are, predictably, quite proletarian (by Chilean standards). 900 rubles for a day ski pass in low season and 1200 in high season. As usual, there are no one-time ski passes.
Scheme of slopes and lifts on Osorno.
But, despite the lack of single tickets, we can agree, which we do. They sell us the cheapest ski pass possible (student + low season), rubles for 550 from the nose, which makes us very happy. Still, if there is a cable car, then it is foolish not to use it to throw yourself higher.
Everyone is good at ski touring / backcountry, but there is a lot of junk. Therefore, the time from arrival to the place and directly to the start is long, especially considering that there is a lot of new equipment that has not yet been fitted. But, training is a great weight. With each exit, the collection-analysis is getting faster and faster, the hand is stuffed, the equipment is adjusted and lapped.
Shines, infection ... apparently yesterday's winds blew away all that powder, which was recently listed in the forecast. We take ice axes, definitely.
The higher, the more beautiful and beautiful the views of the lake nearby.
There is a hard crust on top and no prospects for a ski tour, so we immediately hook the shells on ourselves. Walking on skins today is not destiny.
And very soon we will dress cats. Because it's tough.
It's hard going, but interesting.
We rejoice at the fact that even below the car they put on "arbors" (safety systems). On this slope it would be problematic.
In the photo: One of the most compact and light systems there is, Camp, model ALP 95 (weighs 95 grams). such climbing thong, for extremal radicals, but anything is better than no system at all.
The combination of insolation (solar radiation) and cold work wonders. As soon as there is a lull, everything melts, as soon as the wind blows, it freezes. Therefore, any mechanical components and devices are under threat - there is a high chance of failure or breakdown. The same telescope sticks, for example. Freeze in the open state and kirdyk, you will go with the spread out, like a skier.
But here, on Ossorno, you can’t even call it an icefall ... something strange. But cute.
Yes, we put on skins in vain, it must be admitted ... but from below everything was not at all obvious.
The weather is gorgeous, just as ordered. A light breeze and a clear sky, so it’s a sin to break up and not stop for tea ...
Especially when such views.
Below is Lake Llanquihue and Calbuco volcano (2002).
Around the lake - entirely settlements of German immigrants. Local Alemania.
Directly from the top, from its extreme 100 meters, now we can’t go down, so we go there without shells, light.
Come and lean on this...
In the language of meteorologists / glaciologists, this is called "complex ice-rime phenomena."
South American and, especially Patagonian, are famous all over the world. With its size and shape... For you to understand, the height of the "balda" on the right is 5-6 meters, no less. Finding a passage between them and not getting lost (both uphill and downhill) is not a trivial task.
Vertex...
As Wikipedia tells us: "Osorno is one of the most active volcanoes in the southern Chilean Andes, with 11 eruptions recorded between 1575 and 1869. Charles Darwin observed the Osorno eruption on January 19, 1835 during his world travel on the Beagle.
But, now no signs of volcanic activity can be seen, unfortunately. No smoke for you, no lava for you, even warm areas at worst, and those are not there!
And the view from it to the other side, to the majestic Lago Todos Los Santos and Tronador volcano(3491), located on the border with Argentina. By the way, another 20-25 kilometers beyond it and there is one of the most famous freerider areas in this part of the world - Catedral(San Carlos de Bariloche)
And this is a volcano Puntiagudo. Very characteristic in form. Planning to try it out next year. True, there are no roads, no paths ...
Along with the Osorno volcano, the Petrohue waterfalls (Saltos de Petrohué) are the pearl of the Vicente Perez Rosales Park. A must see place when planning a trip to the Los Lagos region of Chile.
Petrohue Falls and Osorno Volcano
The landscape is fantastic: the raging Petrohue waterfalls flowing into the river of the same name of a unique color, and a blue volcano with a snowy cap in the background.
We came to the city of Puerto Varas for a couple of days. Plan: walk around the city and go to the Parque Nacional Vincente Pérez Rosales (Parque Nacional Vincente Pérez Rosales) to the Petrohue waterfalls and hiking to the Osorno volcano. The emphasis was placed on the park, since I had already been to the city of Puerto Varas before, and even cheerfully dissected in a kayak on Lake Yianquihue.
On the first day we went to the Vicente Perez Rosales park to see the waterfalls. The landscape is fantastic: the raging waterfalls of Petrohue, flowing into the river of the same name of a unique color, and the blue Osorno volcano with a snowy cap in the background. And all this is surrounded by mountains and dense emerald forests.
The famous postcard view - the Petrohue waterfalls against the background of the imposing giant, the Osorno volcano - is located a couple of meters from the entrance to the park. The Sendero Los Saltos sign and a boardwalk lead to the observation deck at the waterfalls. By the way, the main entrance to the park is located 19 km earlier, but there is no one there even in the conaf booths. Therefore, buses pass by a raised barrier, straight to the end point at the Petrohue River, where all the tourists get off. You won't get lost.
I was deeply impressed by the Petrohue River, or rather, an incredible shade between emerald and color. sea wave. The water is clear, boulders at the bottom of the river are clearly visible through the water column.
Saltos Rio Petrohue Center, owned by owner Petrohue Logde. There are shops with typical souvenirs and cafes. If you go through the building, you will get to the bridge leading to the Petrohue waterfalls. The bus also stops here.
The other side of the park - sendero to Karilemu
People often come to the Vicente Perez Rosales Park to see the Petrohue waterfalls, so they often limit themselves to this view. But I also advise you to walk in the opposite direction of the park to Sendero Carilemu. This is a longer trail, about an hour's walk. Before the trail enters the forest, you pass a small malachite-coloured lagoon (laguna Cayutué). And then there is a stunning view of the Petrohue River. No less impressive than the Petrohue waterfalls. I spent at least half an hour on the boulders, watching the turbulent flow of the Petrohue and breathing in the purest air of the Lakes Region.
The park is huge and can be explored for several days. About a walk along the frozen volcanic lava to Lake Todos los Santos, which leads to the border with Argentina,.
How to get to Vicente Perez Rosales Park from Puerto Varas
The distance from Puerto Varas to the park is 47 km, to the Petrohue waterfall sector is another 19 km.
By bus
On El Salvador Street, next to the Radisson Hotel, there is a stop where the Ensenada bus stops. He drives towards the park, stops at the Petrohue waterfalls, Ending station near Lago Los Santos lake. We got on the bus at 12:05 and arrived at the park at 13:00. In winter, the last return bus from Petrohue to Puerto Varas leaves at 17:45, so don't be late. Price travel ticket: CLP 2.000 (USD 3) to Petrohue, 2.500 to the lake.
We didn't bother renting a car in Puerto Varas and managed quite well with the help of scheduled buses. But by car, it would still be much more comfortable and without reference to the flight schedule.
Park Hours
In winter: from 8:30 to 18:30, in summer until 20:00.
Entrance ticket price
CLP 1500 (USD 2).
Where to stay in the park
There are many accommodation options on the way to the park, especially in the Ensenada area. There are few options on the territory of the park itself near Osorno and the waterfalls:
- Camping Playa Petrohué on the shores of Lake Todos Los Santos. The view opposite is spectacular. Open only during the high season in summer. There is also the Play Venado campsite.
- Luxurious Petrohue Lodge.
When to go to Vicente Perez Rosales Park
Theoretically - all year round. I came at the beginning of May. Daytime temperature was about +12. In January up to +20. But a trip to the Lakes region is strongly advised to plan for the summer, not because of the temperature. The fact is that in autumn and winter (from May to September) the trip can be disrupted by heavy rains, which often occur in this region. It is impossible to predict the local weather at this time of the year - speaking of our visit, on the first day it was sunny and clear, the next day everything was covered with clouds and it started to rain. And the local rain is a sign of equal to a strong cold snap and blurring of roads to the mountains.
Petrohue Falls and Osorno Volcano in Vicente Perez Rosales Park was last modified: December 19th, 2016 by Anastasia Polosina
Geography
The volcano is located between the lakes Llanquihue and Todos los Santos on the western slope of the Main Cordillera on the border between the provinces of Osorno and Llanquihue in the Los Lagos region. Refers to stratovolcanoes. Height 2652 meters. Located on the territory of the Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, the oldest national park in Chile, founded in 1926.
Osorno is one of the most active volcanoes in the south of the Chilean Andes, with 11 eruptions recorded between 1575 and 1869. Charles Darwin observed the Osorno eruption on January 19, 1835, during his voyage around the world on the ship Beagle.
Osorno Volcano Photo Gallery
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Osorno Volcano and Petrohué Waterfalls.jpg
see also
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Notes
Literature
- Latin America, volume 2, publishing house " Soviet Encyclopedia”, Moscow, 1982, p.282
Links
An excerpt characterizing Osorno (volcano)
Sometimes, for reasons unknown to us, some person or fact leaves an indelible impression in our memory and is literally “imprinted” into it forever, and sometimes even something very important simply disappears in the “eternally flowing” stream of time, and only a casual conversation with some old acquaintance suddenly “grabs” some exceptionally important event from the back streets of our memory and inexpressibly surprises us with the fact that we could somehow forget such a thing! ..Before I decided to write this book, I tried to recall some of the important events, which I considered interesting enough to tell about them, but, to my great regret, even with an excellent memory, I realized that I could not accurately restore many of the details and especially the dialogues that took place so long ago.
Therefore, I decided to use the most reliable and well-tested method - time travel - to restore any events and their details with absolute accuracy, re-living exactly the day (or days) when the event I chose was supposed to occur. This was the only sure way for me to achieve the desired result, since in the usual "normal" way it is really absolutely impossible to reproduce long-past events with such accuracy.
I was well aware that such a detailed accuracy to the smallest detail of the dialogues, characters and events that I reproduced for a long time could cause bewilderment, and maybe even some wariness of my respected readers (and my “ill-wishers”, if such suddenly appear, be given the opportunity to name everything it’s just a “fantasy”), so I considered it my duty to try to explain everything that was happening somehow here.
And even if I didn’t quite succeed, then just invite those who wish to open the “veil of time” with me for a moment and live together my strange and sometimes even a little “crazy”, but very unusual and colorful life ...
After so many years that have passed, for all of us, childhood is becoming more like a long-heard kind and beautiful fairy tale. I remember warm mother's hands, carefully covering before going to bed, long sunny summer days, not yet clouded by sorrows, and much, much more - bright and cloudless, like our very distant childhood ... I was born in Lithuania, in a small and amazingly green town of Alytus, far away from hectic life famous people and "great powers". Only about 35,000 people lived in it at that time, most often in their own houses and cottages, surrounded by gardens and flower beds. The whole town was surrounded by an ancient forest for many kilometers, creating the impression of a huge green bowl in which it quietly huddled peacefully, living its own life. quiet life, princely town.
; belongs to the oldest national park Chile Vicente Perez Rosales"(Spanish: Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales), founded in 1926. The height of the volcano, which has a regular cone shape, is 2652 m above sea level; the top is covered with glaciers and snow all year round.
Although volcanic dynamics have not been observed for almost 150 years, Osorno is considered one of the most active active volcanoes in the southern part of the Chilean Andes: from 1575 to 1869 11 eruptions were recorded here.
Osorno Peak is the most photographed object in the Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park. Almost every article or story about visiting the park is accompanied by a photograph of the majestic snow-capped peak.
Photo gallery not open? Go to site version.
Geographic location
The volcano is very photogenic located between the lakes: Llanquihue(Spanish lago Llanquihue), the second largest in Chile, and todos los santos(Spanish: Lago Todos los Santos - "The Lake of All Saints"). Osorno rises on the western slope of the Main Cordillera of the Andean ridge (Spanish: Cordillera de los Andes), which separates and; on the border between the provinces of Osorno (Spanish Provincia de Osorno) and Llanquihue (Spanish Provincia de Llanquihue) in the administrative area Los Lagos(Spanish: Los Lagos).
Climatic features
The peak of Osorno is completely covered with snow and ice all year round, despite the fact that the volcano is located in a region with a fairly mild climate. The ice sheet is supported by heavy snowfalls that fall here in winter. The rainy season lasts from mid-April to December, with significantly less rainfall from January to March. In July - August it rains every 4 days out of 5. Since it rains in this region on average 200 days a year, it is not always possible to see the volcano in all its glory; even on clear days, morning mist often shrouds the summit, hiding it from viewers until noon.
At the top, a cold and piercing wind almost constantly blows, moreover, from all sides!
History reference
The indigenous population of the lake region is the warlike Indians (they are Araucans). For many centuries, they successfully defended their forest land, first from the invasion of the Inca troops, then from the Spanish conquerors. The Araucanian war lasted for more than 300 years, the Spaniards never managed to win it. The Mapuche only subdued after a series of military campaigns against them by the Chilean army at the end of the 19th century, which later became known as "Pacification of Araucania". After their conquest, the Indians began to give land for agricultural plots to European emigrants.
Then the Germans actively mastered the lake region. Their influence is clearly visible in architecture, culture, traditional dress and cuisine. Half of the inhabitants here have Spanish names and German surnames. Everyone communicates with each other in Spanish, but the sweet pies baked by the local "frau" for sale are called "kuchens" (German: Kuchen).
Town Frutillar(Spanish: Frutillar), which stands on the shores of Lake Llanquihue, is a vivid example of the heritage of German emigrants. A little further south is another "German" city, Puerto Varas(Spanish: Puerto Varas), from the city embankment which offers an unrealistic view of the volcanic pair - a crooked cone (Spanish: Calbuco) and the almost ideal proportions of Osorno.
national park
national park Vicente Perez Rosales, whose main attraction is the Osorno Volcano, delights visitors with an amazing variety of natural landscapes: here you can admire evergreen forests, beautiful mountain ranges, magical lakes and snow-capped peaks of volcanoes. The national park is an integral part of Chile's tourism system.
The regal Osorno, crowned with an ice crown of eternal snows, is reflected immediately in 2 beautiful reservoirs: in pure azure waters majestic Llanquihue and in the emerald waters of the picturesque Todos Los Santos. At the foot of the volcano, toy colorful villages built in the German style are scattered. The most magnificent views of Osorno can be admired from charming towns Puerto Octay(Spanish: Puerto Octay), Puerto Varas and Frutillar, located on the western shore of Lake Llanquihue.
From Puerto Varas you can walk on your own hiking trails, get acquainted with the picturesque surroundings and reach the top of the volcano.
The second attraction of the National Park is Petrohue river(Spanish Petrohue), which originates in Lake Todos los Santos.
Located on the river famous waterfall Petroue.
The river is popular place for lovers active rest. The impressive rapids of Petrohue (class III-IV rafting) give thrill-seekers the opportunity to test their strength near the most beautiful volcanoes - Osorno and Calbuco.
In the upper reaches of the Petrohue River, not far from the place of its formation, there is a waterfall of the same name. On the route between the cities (Spanish: San Carlos de Bariloche; Argentina) and (Spanish: Puerto Montt; Chile), tourists are usually offered to stop to take a walk to the waterfall and enjoy the beautiful landscape of the handsome Osorno. Petrohue Falls was formed as a result of a volcanic eruption, in the crevices of hardened lava. Water flows through huge masses of hardened lava that have resisted erosion for many centuries.
The park hosts many tourist routes, one of the most popular is the 12-kilometer Sendero Paso Desolacion, passing along the eastern slope of the volcano, with an ascent to a height of 1,100 m above sea level.
Nature lovers from all over the world get an inexpressible pleasure from visiting the untouched nature of the Chilean National Park. Evergreen wet forests, fabulous forest lakes, thermal springs, cleanest rivers, beautiful volcanoes are a feature of this delightful region. Climb the most beautiful volcano; walk through the forest with relic trees, some of which are hundreds of years old; bathe in magic thermal springs; to admire the blue lakes and the Petrohue waterfall - this park will undoubtedly bring you a lot of positive emotions and will forever settle in your heart.
Tourist's dream
On the slopes of the Osorno Volcano, you can take part in sightseeing tour, go hiking on one of tourist routes, as well as snowboarding, mountain biking or horseback riding.
In good weather, tourists can climb observation deck, located at an altitude of 1300 m above sea level. It offers a breathtaking panorama of the area, a view of the entire Llanquihue lake and Calbuco volcano.
You can climb up to the snow line on your own. In summer, this border rises to 2200 - 2300 m above sea level. You can only advance higher with special equipment and with an instructor. But from above, views of unreal beauty open up, and the higher, the more beautiful.
For those who are fond of mountaineering, rock climbing, speleology, skiing skiing- all conditions are created here. Although the volcano is considered active, this did not prevent the Chileans from organizing ski center, where there is everything you need to practice this sport. The snow-capped peak of Osorno attracts skiers from all over the world. An asphalt road leads to the foot of the mountain, then there are several queues cable car deliver skiers almost to the level of glaciers.
From small village Ensenada(Spanish: Ensenada), located on the southeast coast of Lake Llanquihue, you can climb to the top of the volcano. The hike takes approximately 6 hours.
Beauty and multicolor Osorno
Because of the amazing beauty of Osorno, it is often called the "South American Fuji", comparing it with the most beautiful Fujiyama volcano on the planet, located on Japanese island Honshu, 90 km from Tokyo.
The almost perfect snow-covered cone of Osorno is very reminiscent of the beautiful business card Japan.
Travelers who were lucky enough to climb the Chilean volcano must have noticed another of its features - the constantly changing color of the tuff under their feet: gray, brown, red, pinkish, burgundy, terracotta, black.
Above, in contrast, are white-blue glaciers; below, at the foot - piercingly blue Lakes in the emerald frame of a lush forest. Fantastic riot of colors!
Legend
According to the mythology of the Mapuche Indians, the ancient powerful good spirit Pillan expelled from the sky an evil spirit named Peripillan and threw him to the ground in the place where Osorno still stands today. Since then, the evil spirit has become the eternal prisoner of the handsome volcano.
Curious facts
- Outstanding English naturalist and traveler Charles Darwin(English Charles Robert Darwin; 1809-1882) observed the Osorno eruption on January 19, 1835 during his famous trip around the world on the Beagle ship (English Beagle).
- The National Park "Vicente Perez Rosales" (created in 1926) is the oldest not only in Chile, but throughout. Due to the rich diversity of natural landscapes, the park plays an important role in the development of Chilean eco-tourism.
- The national park, which includes Osorno, got its name in honor of Vicente Perez Rosales(Spanish Vicente Perez Rosales; 1807-1886), Chilean politician and diplomat, traveler and adventurer. It was Vicente Perez in the middle of the 19th century. opened the way for the colonization of the Llanquihue region by Chileans and settlers from Germany.
- A view of the volcano in 2005 was used as a backdrop for promotional photos and videos in Motorola's all-out advertising campaign for mobile phone PEBL.
- Osorno is one of the symbols of Chile, it is often depicted on local souvenirs.
- For many years there has been a "dispute" between the handsome Chilean and the Japanese "Fuji-san" (as the Japanese themselves call the mountain as a sign of deep respect) - whose form is more perfect.
