Southern ear. Mount ushba, svaneti, georgia
As I wrote in the photo review of the previous peak, Ushba is only formally the eighth in height. AND...
This terrible in its grandeur, most beautiful, formidable, impregnable, amazing and unforgettable,
charming and fantastic, two kilometers from the foot to the top of a granite boulder,
the most difficult peak of the Caucasus, grandiose to goosebumps ... Of course, You must see it with your own eyes, and the closer,
the better, the more goosebumps will be from the delight of the forces of nature, which created the Caucasus Range,
and including Ushba. This peak, the translation of whose name is (perhaps controversial, but appropriate)
from Svan - "Sabbath of Witches", excited the hearts of English climbers of the 19th century.
On the most difficult "mirrors" of its walls, the strongest climbers of the USSR climbed - Mikhail Kherginani
(a legend in itself), Lev Myshlyaev, Mikhail Anufrikov and many others...
Having gone through all my photo archives since 2002, I selected the best pictures of this Summit.
1. May (high in the mountains it is still winter). View from the slope of Elbrus. Only the top of Ushba peeks out from behind the clouds from somewhere far away behind the ridges. The whole wall is not visible, and there are few places where you can see it in its entirety...
2. August 2002. Beginning of dawn. View also from the slope of Elbrus. Most of Ushba is hidden (merging) with the Shkheld massif. 
3. July 2006, dawn... View from the slope of Mount Kezgenbashi in the Irik Range. To the left of Ushba is Chatyn and Shchurovsky peak, to the right are the teeth of Shkhelda. And again, only the top of Ushba is visible, located entirely in Georgia, hidden by the Main Caucasian Range. 
4. May 2008, 6x zoom view from the village of Elbrus in Kabardino-Balkaria. The two towers of Ushba are somewhere in an inaccessible height behind the ridges. On the right is one of the towers of the formidable Shkhelda. 
5. August 2004. Taken from the slope of Elbrus to an ancient soap box. Above the sea of clouds, under the clouds illuminated by dawn, rises the Caucasian Range with Ushba at the head. 
6. August 2003. View from the ascent to the Western peak of Elbrus. You can see dots of people going along the "path" to the Saddle, and in the distance, on the left, the two-horned Ushba. 
7. August 2004. View from the Western summit of Elbrus. On the left - East, and in the distance - the peaks of the Bezengi region, mentioned earlier in the "rating",. And on the right - Ushba, like a huge "cat" with sharp "ears", peeking out of the clouds: 
May 8, 2013 high mountains everything is covered in snow. Ushba "among friends" - Chatyn, Shchurovsky Peak, Shkhelda. The narrow Ushba icefall is visible, flowing down from the plateau near Malaya Ushba (not visible). 
9. January 2006. As it often happens, especially in winter, a strong wind arose. Snow is blown off the crests of peaks. If you look closely at Ushba, especially its northern ridge, you can see what a terrible hurricane it is. Well, frost -20 to boot. 
9a. Ushba from the Bodorku pass. 
Now I propose to "warm up" a little, look at Ushba from the south, from Svaneti (Georgia).
10. The road along the Enguri valley to Svaneti is long, picturesque, but along the monotonous wooded Enguri gorge. But at the end, approaching the capital of Svaneti, Mestia, in front of the village of Dolra, the southern peak of Ushba opens up around the turn, hiding the northern one. This is a must see! For those who love mountains, this is the deepest positive shock forever... 
11. July 2013, hike 4 class, view of Ushba from the upper reaches of the Kvish valley. So far (in this post) only the top of Ushba has been visible. And from this angle you can see the entire Western Wall. I have no words, epithets and talent to tell, describe what is seen in this photo. Yes, Elbrus is higher than Ushba, the Bezengi wall too, but here ... it’s impossible to convey. I hope the photo can convey what I wanted to say. 
12. Ushba and Mazeri peak from the Kvish valley. 
13. The same, view closer to the Kvish glacier, dawn clouds. 
14. Another angle. August 2012. Southern and Northern peaks of Ushba, Gul glacier, from the Gulichal valley. 
15. Photo with a large zoom from the lower reaches of Gulichaly. There is rarely good weather on the peaks of Ushba, even when it is sunny around. Here, in this picture, the peaks are smoking with clouds - condensate near the ice cliffs of moist air from the Black Sea or the Atlantic. 
16. July 2013. Descending from the Lekzyra Gates along the Mistiachala valley, you can suddenly see two giant snow-covered blocks of Ushba peaks behind the green ridge. A photo is just a picture. And when you see this "in real life", it takes your breath away, you look at it as something unreal. Grandiose granite blocks seem to soar in the sky among the clouds. 
17. Another view from the Gulichal valley, August 2012. Two rock towers on the left are trying to repeat the contours of their neighbor. But where are they to Her! 
18. View from the Enguri valley, Iprali community area, August 2014, 6x zoom, taken with a soap box from a car window. 
19. August 2014. Ushba from the horizon of Zuruldi in the Mestia region. Lucky with the weather! 
20. Previous zoom view. South and North peaks of Ushba. 
21. And finally. July 2013, Kvish Valley, Svaneti. At sunset, the clouds dissipated a little, lit up reddish, and created a simply fantastic extravaganza. This photo, although taken with a soap dish, was
Ushba, Samegrelo-Upper Svaneti, Georgia
Unapproachable and wayward, majestic and proud, the true queen of the Caucasus - all these epithets refer to majestic grief Ushba, which has been called the legend of international mountaineering for many years. Due to unstable weather conditions and a steep profile, the peak is considered one of the most difficult to climb in the middle of the Caucasus ranges and is conquered only by experienced climbers. In our article, we will talk in detail about the height of Ushba, its two-headed peak, difficulty category and climbing routes, which will allow desperate daredevils to appreciate own forces and make a decision regarding the ascent to the mountain.
Height and peaks of Ushba
Mount Ushba (or Uzhba) rises in the middle of the Ushba plateau, located in mountain system Greater Caucasus at an altitude of 4000 meters. Geographically, it belongs to Samegrelo-Upper Svaneti and is located at a distance of 1.5 km from the Russian border. 10 km southeast of the peak stretches the cozy village of Mestia, from where the ascents begin not only to Ushba, but to the neighboring peaks - Shkhara and Dzhangi-Tau.
Unlike those around mountain ranges, Ushba has a double peak, the slopes of which break off with steep 1.5-kilometer red granite walls:
- The northern peak rises to 4690 m above sea level. It was first conquered by climber John Garford Cocklin, who climbed to the very top in 1888.
- The southern peak is 20 meters higher than the northern one. He submitted to people in 1903, when an international expedition led by Willy Rickmer-Rickmers managed to climb its slopes.
A feature of the peak is its microclimate, which does not obey the general climatic rules. Even when the weather is clear and dry in the valley, the Ushba peaks are hidden in clouds and fog, and it is always windy on the bridge between the two heads, regardless of the general air currents. In summer time average temperature air at altitudes above 3000 m often drops to -10 ... -20 ° С.
Legend of Ushba
The name Ushba is translated from the Svan language as "a mountain that brings troubles." This name is often associated with the legend of the hunter Betkel, who easily conquered the massifs of Svaneti in search of game and one day decided to go to the top of Ushba. Climbing the mountain, he met the goddess of hunting Dali, who bewitched the brave guy and left him to live with her. Over time, Betkel became homesick and secretly returned to his village under cover of night.
Not forgiving the young man for such an act, Dali again lured him to Ushba during the hunt. Chasing the mountain tour, Betkel climbed to the top, and the road behind him collapsed and broke off. When the hunter realized that there was no turning back, he rushed down from the cliff, staining Ushba with his scarlet blood. Although this story is just a legend, locals It is believed that the granite walls of the summit owe their red color to the blood of Betkel. For a long time, the mountain was closed to the public, but even today not every guide decides to deliver climbers to the routes of its ascent.
The history of climbing Mount Ushba
The beauty and difficulty of climbing Ushba has been stirring the hearts of climbers since the 19th century. After its North Peak was conquered by John Kokklin, many daredevils tried to climb up, but not all ascents were crowned with success. From 1888 to 1936, only 10 climbers climbed the South Peak, and even fewer climbed the North Peak - only 5.
The complexity of the ascent lies in the fact that there are many steep slopes on the way, and on the north side there is even vertical plane, which climbers call the "mirror of Ushba". Among the first brave athletes, the famous Soviet mountaineer Mikhail (Gabriel) Khergiani, who conquered the peak in 1964, was able to pass this "mirror". In different years, famous climbers Mikhail Anufrikov, Lev Myshlyaev, Gio Niguriani climbed the mountain.
It is worth noting that many climbs to Ushba ended tragically. In 1984, a team of 6 climbers from the Georgian Alpine Club remained under an avalanche, and in 1995, 20 meters from the exit to the crest of the Northern Peak, 5 athletes from the Primorsky Territory team fell off the rocks. In February 2000, an ice collapse covered the camp where four Russians from Pyatigorsk and several residents of England stayed for the night. Their bodies were never found.
Climbing routes and difficulty category
Although the height of 4710 meters is not considered an obstacle for climbers, and the mountain itself is not among the ten highest in the Caucasus, the number of successful ascents of it is extremely small. This circumstance is explained by the waywardness of Ushba and the high category of difficulty on a 6-point scale. More favorable to climbers is the North Peak, the difficulty of which is estimated from 4A to 6A. It is more difficult to climb the South Peak, which has a level of 5A to 6A (“extremely difficult”).
More than five dozen routes lead to the top of Mount Ushba, varying in difficulty category, degree of physical activity and level possible risk. The most popular and often passable are two of them:
Along the Northeast Ridge (4A)
The easiest route, called the classics of Soviet mountaineering. The ascent leads to the Northern Peak through the Ushbinsky Pass and icefalls of medium difficulty with many cracks. Depending on the technical background and weather conditions the average climbing time is from 8 to 16 hours. The return descent is carried out to the Ushbinsky pass or the Pillow of Ushba.
Approach to the route is possible only from Georgia, since there are no options from Russia - the border is locked, and attempts to climb Ushba are considered a crime under Russian law. In addition, in recent years there has been a strong collapse of the Ushba icefall, through which it was previously possible to get to the mountain. Therefore, today the only possible way along the route is through the village of Mestia.
Along the South wall (5B)
More difficult route, but the easiest of all possible ascents to the South Peak. When climbing, climbers follow the path of Mikhail Khergiani with an ascent to the crest of the South-Western buttress, passing the “mirror” of Ushba and then descending to the Gulsky camps near the settlement of Gul. On average, the round trip takes 2 days.
Climbing the route is notable for its technical complexity, it requires well-coordinated actions in a group, perfect discipline, as well as the skills of insurance and movement in mountainous terrain. Before climbing, climbers are advised to go through an acclimatization climb to Kazbek or Laila, which allows them to get used to the ice and hone their crampon walking skills.
Some climbers also use other, harder paths - along the East Face, the center of the Northeast Face, the East or West Ridge, the icefalls of the Northwest Face. Despite the great risks and heavy physical exertion, climbing Ushba is worth the effort, because there is no more joyful moment for a climber than to be at the end of a difficult path and take in the boundless expanses of the mighty Caucasus with one glance.
In contact with
Here she is, the Queen of the Caucasus, a majestic, inaccessible, wayward and proud peak. Ushba is a legend of world mountaineering, with a long and dramatic history of climbing.The majestic profile, the geometric regularity of forms and the colossal scale of this world-famous Caucasian mountains leaves no room for doubt.
« Ushba, Uzhba, a two-headed steep peak in the central part of the Greater Caucasus, rising to the South-East from the Elbrus massif on the short southern spur of the Main, or Dividing Range, in Svaneti. Altitude up to 4700 m.
(Great Soviet Encyclopedia)
The map was compiled by Vladimir Kopylov. www.Elbrus1.com
The Ushba plateau, located at an altitude of 4000 m, is covered with a powerful glacier and surrounded by the peaks of the Main Range - Shkhelda, Ushba Malaya, Shchurovsky Peak, Chatyn and Ushba. From the south-west, the plateau is bounded by a long, heavily indented Eastern ridge, the "saw" of the Eastern Shkhelda.
Solo against the backdrop of Ushba
Ushba is considered one of the most difficult four-thousanders in the world. It is located at the very end of the Shkhelda Gorge, on the border of Russia and Georgia. Altitude 4700 m above sea level. The Ushba array consists of two vertices. From all sides, the slopes of the massif are cut off by steep 1000-1500-meter walls.
The North Peak (4690 m) was first climbed in 1888 by John Garford Kokin with guide Ulrich Almer. The southern peak (4700 m) was conquered only in 1903 by an expedition of German, Swiss and Austrian climbers, led by Willy Rickmer-Rickmers.
The two peaks are connected by the Ushba jumper or "pipe". It justifies its name: even in good weather it's windy.
In terms of the number of poetic nicknames, Mount Ushba can easily compete with the first beauties of Georgia. "Talisman of Svaneti", "Queen of the Main Caucasian ridge"," the mountain that remembers the loving look of Tamerlane "- this is far from complete list titles from admiring admirers.
The legendary Ushba is located in the fabulously beautiful region of Georgia - Upper Svaneti. A steep granite profile, the presence of two peaks (North and South), glaciers sliding down make one of the main mountains of Svaneti impregnable. The northern peak has a mark of 4690 meters above sea level, and the southern one - 4710 m.
This height is by no means an obstacle for climbers, Mount Ushba does not even fall into the top ten highest in the Caucasus. Then why is the number of successful climbs on it extremely small? The rebellious beauty is very capricious. Professionals rate the climbing difficulty on a six-point scale as 4A (“difficult level”) and 6A (“extremely difficult level”). The northern peak is considered more favorable to the conquerors of heights than the southern one. In any case, both peaks will require colossal professionalism and serious physical preparation from the daredevils.
Ascents from Russia to Mount Ushba are generally prohibited by law. However, having gone to, you may well get to know the Caucasian two-horned beauty in person. Climbing such difficult and life-threatening routes is not at all necessary. You can simply settle down in a nearby Svan settlement, take advantage of their hospitality and listen to beautiful legend about "Woe that brings misfortune." That is what the locals call Ushba. In their language, "ush" means "trouble."
Legend of Ushba
Families from generation to generation pass on the story of a fearless hunter named Betkil. He easily conquered the mountains of Svaneti in search of game. Inspired by his own successes, Betkil once ventured up the Ushba. At the top he was met by the goddess of mountains and hunting - Dali. She really liked the strong and courageous Svan. Dali bewitched him and left him to live. Over time, Betkil yearned for home, relatives and the beautiful bride that was waiting for him below. At night, the young man secretly left Dali and returned to his village. The goddess could not forgive the refusal of a mere mortal and lured Betkil to the slopes of Ushba by cunning. He enthusiastically ran after the huge tour sent by Dali, and the road behind the young man was cut off step by step. Realizing that there was no way back, Betkil rushed down and died, staining Ushba with scarlet blood. And although this is just a legend, and the slopes owe their color to red granite, it is very difficult to find a guide to the Witch Mountain among the locals.
There is another story about Ushba among climbers. It is not at all dramatic and more modern. Georgians remember how in 1903 Prince Dadeshkeliani gave famous mountain climber from the Rickmers expedition. The Svans were indignant, because it is not worthwhile to give the beauty of the homeland to strangers. To this, the reasonable prince replied that Ushba, as she was in place, remained, and the woman was pleased \u003d)).
The peculiarities of the mountain itself can be safely attributed to its unusual microclimate. Weather phenomena here are absolutely not subordinated. general rules. While the weather in the valley is sunny and clear, Ushba can hide behind dense fog or clouds for days. And between the two ridges there is a jumper, which is called a "pipe" - it is always windy in this place, regardless of the general air flow.
The northern peak of the mountain was conquered only in 1888, the southern height was taken 15 years later - in 1903. One of the most famous pioneers on Ushba was a native of Georgia, Mikhail Khergiani. His route is still used today.
So, if you are lucky enough to go to, be sure to treat yourself to the joy of seeing one of the most beautiful and famous peaks in the world. You may not reach the peaks, but the experience will undoubtedly become unforgettable.
