Munch sardyk ascent. Munku-sardyk - a traditional hike for the May holidays

Schengen

Munku-Sardyk, the highest point of the Sayans, 3491 meters high, is a cult peak for climbers of Buryatia and Irkutsk. Every year at the beginning of May, hundreds of people who want to make an ascent come there, fortunately, a proven a tourist route

I had a desire to visit Munka-Sardyk a year ago, as soon as I started talking with climbers, I learned about the annual pilgrimage to this mountain. A year ago it didn’t work out for personal reasons, but this time I decided to visit Munku-Sardyk at all costs.

Training

Let me remind you that Munku-Sardyk is located on the border of Russia and Mongolia - behind the reverse slope is already the territory of a foreign state. Accordingly, the border zone, to enter which you need to issue a pass. I worried at the end of March, and issued a standard one, for a period of a year, instead of the previous one, the term of which was just ending.

There was also the question of who to go with - an experienced escort was needed. Several familiar climbers were going to Munka-Sardyk, but no one was particularly eager to take it with them. They referred to the fact that sometimes even trained people can’t master the climb, but experienced athletes will go at a fast pace, everyone will have no time to mess around with a beginner. Only the head of the RiF club, Elena Badanova, agreed. But she also frightened me for a long time with stories about how people could not stand the path, not even reaching the lake, how some sharp health problems began from the rarefied atmosphere, how sometimes there were accidents when people fell off steep slopes. What I heard was really creepy. But the cards are dealt, I can't back down.

The third issue is equipment. I had something for a long time: thermal underwear, a sweatshirt and a fleece trowel, synthetic winterizer pants, a membrane ski jacket, Merrel winter sneakers. But I also had to run around the shops - I bought a headlamp and a supply of batteries, climbing leggings, spare fleece gloves, and various trifles. I also bought a backpack "Relief" for 150 liters. Of course, it is far from Nova tour products, but it is almost three times cheaper. At the same time, everything fit into it: a sleeping bag, a tent, a change of clothes, a personal supply of food, and so on. He also took dark glasses so that the light reflected by the snow would not burn his eyes.

Road to hell

We left on April 30 at about 23.00, plunging into a hired mikrik. Morning, the border of the Okinsky district, the way is blocked by a barrier. The border guard, looking into the salon, collects passports and passes, and takes them to the container house. “I went to apply for loans,” someone quipped. It took about half an hour to settle the formalities, finally, we go further. Then a stop near the border checkpoint, then further along the highway, then - a dirt road. Finally, the mikrik stops near a roadside shop with a hexagonal roof. The institution is located a hundred meters from the bridge over the White Irkut, here is a kind of starting point. We take out things, throwing them into a pile, now we will distribute the load. Sunny day, hot as summer.

Although I tried to load the backpack with only the most necessary things, it still turned out to be quite weighty. In addition, I had to carry a share of the total load: cereals, sugar, pasta, and I was also entrusted with a responsible mission: to carry a camping cast-iron cauldron. The damned piece of iron weighs a lot, as a result, my backpack turned out to be very heavy. This does not inspire optimism at all - I already know very well that with a long transition, each extra gram becomes a heavy weight. Somehow I put it on my back, in my hands - a pair of trekking sticks, stomp the road to the bridge, then we go down to the river.

At a fast pace we walk along the rocky bottom of the river. The ice and snow have not yet completely melted, There are many off-road vehicles off the coast, snowmobiles rush from time to time. There are a lot of people, sometimes whole crowds, someone goes up the canyon, someone - towards. In places where the coast is covered with forest, there are whole tent camps.

Remembering the instructions of one Krasnoyarsk traveler, after each fairly long segment of the journey I eat a piece or two of chocolate, a bar of which I prudently hid in my belt pouch. Anyway, a heavy backpack pretty much reduces strength. It's good that we still make short stops from time to time. The slope of the ascent becomes the further, the higher.

Every now and then you have to jump over streams of water flowing over ice or over stones. He got his feet wet, and several times, but waved his hand at it, leaving the shoes to dry on the go. From the slopes on the sides every now and then, stones crumble with noise.

We reached the place where the canyon forks in two, turn into the left lapel. The slope goes up sharply, now instead of a flat bottom there are stepped rocky rapids covered with ice. Walking along it, and even with a load, is very inconvenient. Stopping, I put on the “cats” provided by Lena. I am accustomed to them, they are like family to me - I crossed Baikal twice in them. Now it's easier to walk on the ice.

Be careful, there every now and then stones fall, - those returning from above warn us.

In addition to fatigue, with a long but intense transition main scourge- thirst. Water losses are huge, the body requires compensation. A couple of bottles of mineral water have long been exhausted. During the next stop, throwing off my backpack, I scoop directly from the stream murmuring among the ice and drink ice-cold water. He was tired as hell, the backpack squeezed his shoulders, and you still have to go and go. But I perceive all these difficulties calmly, because I expect the worst to come, when there will be a direct ascent.

Finally, I reached a conditional point in the upper reaches of the river. The main part of the group has long been located on the "glade" - a vast, wooded area on the right bank of the canyon. Climbing upstairs, I drop my backpack near the larch and spread the rug, falling on it with pleasure. However, rest and all the rest.

After a long rest, we begin to equip the camp. We pitch tents, collect firewood for a fire, dry wet shoes. After dinner, briefings are held, equipment is distributed to beginners - safety systems, ice axes, helmets.

We get up at five in the morning, we will leave early to try to get ahead of everyone and not get into a “traffic jam” there - says Lena - By morning everyone should be ready, so that all that remains is to load the backpack.

Rise to madness

Climb! - is distributed behind the walls of the tent. But I actually already managed to wake up, I went to bed early on purpose, so that at the same time I could restore my strength. It's already light outside.

We set off, it was still twilight over the tops of the mountains. We march along a winding path that winds through the gorge along the river, the water roaring, hitting the boulders. The ground underfoot is replaced by either stones, or melted snow, or you have to go straight on loose ice, under which the water stream roars. The slope is constantly rising, it’s hard to go uphill, although now the backpack weighs nothing compared to yesterday. I try to walk fast so as not to lag behind the others, but I still lag behind, while the main team has gone far ahead. Fortunately, Lena prudently ordered the RiF athletes to look after the newcomers.

At some point, the narrow gorge widens greatly, forming a vast lowland. Huge ridges rise on the sides, stretching into the sky. But Munk-Sardyk himself is not yet visible, he still has to go and go. You need to climb the left slope, where a chain of figures with backpacks is already moving.

Is that a lake there? I ask.

It's still far away - says the young climber "RiF" Alexander - It will be necessary to climb even higher, then more, only then it will be.

At the top, a vast valley spreads among the snowy mountain slopes, we make a short halt. I sit down on a stone so that it takes the weight of the backpack, I throw a few pieces of chocolate into my mouth. The rest, meanwhile, are moving on, and I, having overcome my fatigue, follow them. We cross the valley, climb again on the left side, go around a huge rock, behind which a narrow gorge will lead up, and a heap of stones forms like a staircase. Above - again a flat space, in the middle of which is the same lake - the conditional middle of the path, on which it becomes clear whether a person can go further. Well, I still have strength. There are tents on the shore: someone decided to camp closer to the cherished peak.

Quickly crossing the frozen pond, we take pictures on the other side. Behind the lake is a slope covered with rocks, gradually rising, and then abruptly going up. Climbing it is just a pain. At the same time, a heavy snowfall began, because of it, visibility became simply disgusting. Mentally I measure the distance by the stones blackening in the snow. “Getting to this, now to the next one, and it’s not far to the end of the climb.” Alexander and Purbo briskly run side by side, not showing the slightest sign of fatigue, and even taking part of the load from me. You involuntarily wonder at their endurance, especially when you feel that you yourself are barely alive. Attempts to drive yourself into a trance, as during the Baikal crossings, do not help, everything has to be done with the last effort.

With the last of his strength, he climbed this shoot. Above is a small flat spot. Tormented by thirst, I look for a place that has not been trampled down, I rake in the snow with my palm, and squeezing it into a tight lump, greedily bite into it.

Don't touch the main "yellow" - laughs Purbo - The first rule of a climber: do not eat "yellow snow".

Behind the patch begins a new steep slope, covered with snow. I'm already crawling up like a zombie, overpowering myself. The snow underfoot is already deep, and Alexander gives the go-ahead to put on the “cats”.

It's already getting cold, I pull out a jacket from my backpack. In general, the weather is still okay, they say, there is a strong wind, and then the frost is over thirty.

I would like to sit still, to rest, but it is impossible, we must hurry. Overpowering myself, I try to do it anyway, at least one or two extra steps up. The sky is covered with a gray veil of snowfall - the edge of the slope is no longer visible. By the way, the climbing gaiters turned out to be just a miracle - not a crumb of snow got into my boots.

sky storm

Exhausted like a dog, I finally climb to the top of the climb. Gaze again appears a small snow-covered area, which is crowded with many people. This is the so-called "Pillow" - a place from where the ascent directly to the top is already taking place.

I put on a safety system, "Reefer". Chimit helps me to properly tighten it, fasten the carabiner and the "mustache" - the safety cable. We, the three newcomers in the group, were ordered to fasten with a rope for insurance, if suddenly someone stumbles. I leave my backpack and trekking poles here, I take an ice pick. They showed me ahead of time how to lean on it when lifting, and how to competently cling to it if you suddenly slip. Lena decided to slightly change the route for us, and we did not go to the left along the main path, but straight ahead, in order to climb the ridge extending from the peak and already along it to approach the summit.

New breakthrough. Again, almost crawling up the steep snowy slope. He goes somewhere high up, the edge is not visible. I have almost no strength, I want to lie down stupidly and not move.

Go ahead, don't stop! - Lena urges on with a cry from the slope high above. Overcoming fatigue, I try to move higher at least two steps, time after time. Sometimes, when after a short stop a little more strength is added, I rise a meter or two to jerk. The deep snow under my feet now and then crumbles and I, losing my balance, fall. Two or three seconds of respite, but you have to climb higher.

Here we are on the ridge, again with relief I sit down directly on the snow. With reverse side a colorful panorama of a snow-covered mountain range spreads out.

Can you go? - asks Lena. The question is very important - in unusual people after such a rise, latent ailments often become aggravated, internal organs fail.

I can! - I answer. Although the load is almost limiting, I still feel the strength to go further.

There's not much left, see that rock? - says Alexander. The cliff sticking out in the sky seems really close, but having estimated that it is actually still decent to climb up to it, optimism decreases.

We carefully move along a narrow path, skirting cliffs sticking out in the snow. The slopes are very steep, the slope is probably seventy degrees, if you fall, then there is a risk of rolling down, eventually crashing. The pace is no longer too high, there are much more opportunities to relax a little.

Be careful not to push the stones down - Lena warns. The warning is not out of place - there are a lot of people below, a stone that rolls from such a height along such a slope will inevitably cripple or kill the one it hits.

We did not have time to go to the middle of the ridge, a thick fog suddenly descended on the mountains, completely blocking visibility. Below, everything is like in milk, nothing is visible, only at a distance to the left you can discern a line of tourists climbing up the main path.

A rock! - from time to time a shout is heard when a small pebble rolls down the slope.

This stone is “alive”, do not cling to it - Alexander warns, walking along the cracked rock.

The last meters remain to the top, the realization of this gives a surge of strength. Climbing up the sticking stones.

Already quite a bit - the “Rifovites” cheer me up, who themselves have long jumped up the stones.

And now, the last jerk, and I'm at the top. That's it, I've reached the goal. Wearily I sit down on a snow-covered stone, listening to congratulations from those accompanying me.

The top of Munku-Sardyk, as they said, turned out to be a rather tight spot. There is a worship cross, which, as I was told, was once dragged here by Chimit Tarmaev. Next to the cross is a pillar tied with “chii-morins”. Around - a whole bunch of the same climbers, very crowded. I am surprised to meet acquaintances walking in other groups. I look around: the damned fog has buried the hope of admiring the surrounding panorama from a height. And it is strange to realize that the territory of Mongolia already begins from this slope of the mountain.

After sitting for a while and recovering my breath, I remember the flags that I promised myself to bring upstairs at all costs. I take them out, my comrades willingly help to stretch them so that I can take a picture. That's it, mission accomplished.

Return

Then there was the descent. On the one hand, it is lighter - almost no forces are wasted, on the other hand, it is technically more difficult. He descended from the top, jumping down from stone to stone and holding on to the cable for insurance. Then we walked along the ridge again, fastening with a safety “whisker”, then there was a descent along the snowy slopes - here you have to go face forward, stepping on your heels. The descent is certainly not the ascent - the distance was covered much faster. He walked back, not in a hurry, at a pace convenient for himself. Around everything is in a veil of fog, after a few meters only muddy silhouettes are visible.

Arriving at the camp and spending the night in a damp, frosty tent, in the morning I packed my things and moved down the canyon, where I was supposed to meet a climber from another group that was supposed to go to Ulan-Ude. This is how my ascent to Munka-Sardyk went.

Climbing Munku-Sardyk (3491 meters) - highest point Sayan is a serious test for prepared tourists. In summer, the route is quite simple, but in winter its complexity increases significantly: short daylight hours, negative air temperatures, icy snowy slopes - all this complicates the ascent.

6 years of experience in organizing winter ascents
Dozens of climbers of different ages have reached the summit
Upon completion, a certificate of ascent is issued, as well as a commemorative tourist club badge
All necessary group winter equipment is provided

This region of the Eastern Sayans compares favorably with the rest with its little snow. There is practically no snow in the foothills. That allows you to hike and climb on foot, without skis and the use of snowshoes. Also for the region winter time characterized by clear frosty weather. Average temperatures are -25°…-35°С, which for us residents middle lane Russia may seem very impressive. But for the region of the Eastern Sayans, this is not so much, the children continue to go to school, since the air is dry and such temperatures are much easier to tolerate than “ours”.

The peak of Munku-Sardyk is located on the very border of Russia and Mongolia. Climbing this hard-to-reach peak requires excellent physical shape and sufficient sports training. Only in this case you will be able to climb the majestic peak.

Climbing Munka-Sardyk passes through the most beautiful harsh places, the passage through which brings a lot of positive emotions and impressions. The highlight of the area is the abundance of icing and icefalls, you are unlikely to meet such huge blue icefalls anywhere else. Well, to visit Baikal in winter is also worth a lot. Overnight stays in a special tent-hangar "Arctic" for winter trips with a stove, so we won't freeze.

Why choose us?

Equipment rental

We provide you with quality equipment at a reasonable price. Have the opportunity
travel light and save a lot.

This route has been repeatedly successfully completed by our club, all organizational details have been checked and worked out to the smallest detail.

Discount

Those who go hiking with our tourist club for the second or more time receive a discount on participation from 5%.

Excellent climb

A personal manager will advise you at all stages of preparation, help you get ready for a trip, give recommendations on buying tickets and equipment.

Fill out the application and closer to the start make a small advance payment (from 10%) in the most convenient way for you. The rest of the amount - on the day of the start.

Reliability

Our tourist club is officially registered, concludes contracts, pays taxes. There are experienced instructors on the routes. Only modern and high-quality equipment is used.

1. Itinerary and requirements 2. Travel plan 3. Cost of participation 4. Recommendations for equipment

Slyudyanka station - Lake Baikal - Kyren village - Mondy village - Bely Irkut river - Muguvek river - Munku-Sardyk mountain (3491 meters) - Bely Irkut river - Zhemchug village - Lake Baikal - Slyudyanka station.

Required documents: passport, medical insurance policy

Requirements for the physical preparation of participants: the ascent is quite difficult, it requires both physical and technical training, good equipment, given the winter conditions of climbing

1 day

Meeting at the railway station Slyudyanka. The city of Slyudyanka is located on the shores of Lake Baikal, a 2-hour drive from Irkutsk. The city is connected with Irkutsk by regular bus service(minibuses depart from the bus station every 30 minutes), and trains also run. The group gathers before lunch, local time, as several trains arrive in the lunch area, which usually take participants. Those who arrive earlier can still take a walk to Lake Baikal. Further transfer by car to the mountains, the road takes 4-5 hours. On the way, stop in the Buryat village of Kyren for a snack in a cafe. Throwing to a height of approximately 1,600 meters. Setting up the camp, overnight.

2 day

On the frozen river, on ice up the valley of the White Irkut river. Gradually surround the river high rocks, The River Flows In The Canyon. At the top through a cascade of blue icefalls. The transition from camp 1 to camp 2 takes about 5 hours. On the way we make a stop for lunch. The final section is quite steep, it is a cascade of low waterfalls. It requires crampons, in some years even a rope to hold on to. Lodging for the night on the border of the forest, at an altitude of about 2,100 meters.

3 day

Climb up the wide valley to the frozen lake. On the way 3-4 hours. The forest is left behind, only snow and rocks are ahead. Installation of an assault camp at an altitude of 2,600 meters.

Day 4

Early rise. Climbing the highest point of the Sayan Mountains - Munku-Sardyk (3491 meters). In the upper part of the rise in crampons. There are often strong winds, which, combined with frosty weather, is a serious challenge. The peak of Munku-Sardyk is located right on the border of Russia and Mongolia. From it opens beautiful view to the south, Lake Khubsnugul and surroundings. Descent along the ascent path.

Day 5

Spare day in case of bad weather. If you are lucky with the weather, you can go back to the edge of the forest and climb the blue waterfalls.

Day 6

Descent in the valley of the White Irkut river. At the bottom of the road, a charter bus is waiting for us. We are going to Slyudyanka. On the way we will visit hot springs. From there to the railway station Slyudyanka. Estimated time of arrival 19-20 hours local time. In the evening, you can plan a train or bus trip to Irkutsk. The bus station in Slyudyanka is located 10 minutes from the railway station. Buses to Irkutsk leave every 30 minutes, the journey takes 2 hours.

The itinerary or route schedule can be adjusted on the spot based on weather conditions group preparedness and other circumstances.

Program cost: 15 900 rub.

Included in the price:

Transfer of the Slyudyanka station - the Bely Irkut river and back (by car);
Meals on the route (cooking on a fire, on burners);
Visiting hot springs;
Group equipment (winter tent-hangar "Arktika", tourist stove, gas, burner, pharmacy);
Instructor;
Registration of a pass to the border zone (issued a month before the start, a copy of the passport is required);

Price does NOT include:

Transport to Slyudyanka-1 station and back (every hour scheduled bus from Irkutsk, on the way 2 hours);
Snack on the road, during the transfer by car;

Clothes and shoes:

Boots warmed under cats;
Rubber boots, or EVA (for movement along the river, when passing the route in the spring);
Gaiters or shoe covers with galoshes;
Socks: 2-3 pairs of cotton, 1-2 pairs of woolen or insulated ones;
Thermal underwear top + bottom;
2 pairs of trousers, trekking trousers (cotton, membrane, fleece, etc.);
Windproof pants, raincoat;
T-shirts 2-3 pcs, warm jacket or sweater 2-3 pcs;
Hooded jacket, anorak, down vest;
Warm down jacket with a hood;
Gloves, insulated gloves or mittens;
Several hats, cap or bandana, balaclava;

Personal equipment:

Backpack 90-120 liters, cape on the backpack;
Sleeping bag (comfort t -5C°), rug, popper;
Headlamp + spare set of batteries;
Dishes: mug, spoon, bowl, knife, thermos 0.5-1 L, matches;
Sunglasses or ski mask;
Personal first aid kit: remedies for colds and food poisoning, wide band-aid, elastic bandage, medicines prescribed by doctors;
Hygienic lipstick;
Hygiene kit: toilet paper, toothbrush and paste, soap and towel;

Special equipment:

Helmet;
Ice pick;
Cats;
Harness or safety system + 3 carabiners + self-insurance;
trekking poles;

The cost of equipment rental for climbers

*The cost is indicated in rubles for the period of ascent

Climbing Munka-Sardyk (from the Buryat "eternally white char")

We invite you to take part in the ascent to the highest point Eastern Siberia- Munku-Sardyk (3491 m above sea level). The mountain is located on the territory of the Republic of Buryatia and, at the same time, Mongolia, since the border runs right along the top. Therefore, you will not only climb the highest point of Eastern Siberia, but also visit Mongolia. The name of the mountain is translated from the Buryat language as eternally white char. This is actually the case: the Munku-Sardyk massif is covered with a glacier, and even in summer there is snow here. At the foot, at an altitude of 2650, there is a lake of incredible beauty. Completely round, framed majestic mountains Big Sayan, from above it resembles a dragon's eye: in summer it is bluish-green, and in winter it is frozen from the cold and bound by ice.

Tour dates in 2019: from 05/01/19 to 05/05/19, from 05/09/19 to 05/12/19

Duration 5 days, 4 nights.

Ticket price 11,000 rubles per person.

Tour program

Day 1. Check-in.

Departure from Irkutsk. On the way by car, we overcome the Andrianovsky pass, from which, when descending, a stunning view of the southern tip of Lake Baikal and the Khamar-Daban ridge with its snow-capped peaks opens up. Next, we drive into the territory of the Republic of Buryatia, and our path passes through the picturesque Tunkinskaya Valley, surrounded by mountains on both sides: on the one hand, the old man Khamar-Daban, on the other, the pointed peaks of the Eastern Sayan rising to the sky. They will accompany us like immobile guards to the border village of Mondy, where we will make a short stop to obtain a special pass to visit the border zone. After another twenty kilometers, the bus will bring us to the White Irkut River, from where the way up will begin. Today we will walk about five kilometers to the confluence of the Bely Irkut and Muguvek rivers. Here is located base camp(1650 m above sea level). Dinner by the fire. Overnight in tents.

Day 2. Acclimatization.

After breakfast we go to the first route - acclimatization. Today we have to climb to the top called Obzornaya (2900 m. above sea level). It offers a view of the entire nearby mountainous region. Return to base camp in the evening. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 3. Ice and snow activities / Acclimatization.

Breakfast. Today we will climb the peak of 60 years of October or "Katka-dura" (3065m above sea level)! Our route takes us up the White Irkut River to the Gorny Pass (3050 m above sea level), the difficulty category of which is 2A. From the saddle of the pass along the ridge of medium difficulty to the very top. In 2005, traces of a snow leopard were seen on the pass! Here, our tomorrow's goal will open before us - Munku-Sardyk itself. Also, from the top of the peak, a bewitching view of almost all the peaks and passes of this mountainous area. On the way back, we will descend from the Gorny pass to the other side of the ridge and return to the camp along the Muguvek River. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 4. Climbing Munku-Sardyk.

Early breakfast. Ascent along the Muguvek River to Lake Ekhoi, located at an altitude of 2650 m above sea level. Rest. Snack. Climbing Munka-Sardyk. From the top you can clearly see the Mongolian lake Khubsugul - the brother of Baikal, stretching far to the south. Here you can easily cross the border: step forward - and you are in Mongolia, step back - in Russia. Rest. Snack. Descent to the lake. Return to base camp. Dinner by the fire. Overnight in tents.

Day 5

Breakfast. Well deserved rest. Gathering camp. Return to Irkutsk.

tour cost: 11,000 rubles per person.

Included in cost

transfer Irkutsk city - Bely Irkut river - Irkutsk city;
registration of a pass to the border zone;
accompaniment of experienced guides;
accommodation in winter tent with a stove or in separate 2-3x local tents(optional);
nutrition;
rental of group equipment (bivouac and campfire equipment).

Rental of individual equipment (sleeping bags, backpacks, crampons, ice axes, etc.) is possible for an additional fee.

Notes

the total length of the pedestrian part of the route is 40 km;
Attention! Depending on weather conditions and the condition of the group, changes to the tour program are possible at the discretion of the instructor.

Required personal equipment

A cap;
Sunglasses (at least 3 degrees of protection, welding can be used);
Down jacket;
Storm jacket and trousers (windproof);
Mittens (1 pair of fleece, gaiters, 1 spare pair);
Trekking or mountain boots (it is advisable to have a spare pair for being in the base camp);
Shoe covers (gaiters, flashlights);
Socks (2 pairs) + woolen or thermal socks;
Backpack for 80-100 liters;
Polyurethane foam mat (karimat);
Sleeping bag (with a temperature regime of -10 ° С);
Lantern (preferably headlamp);
Ice pick;
Cats;
KLMN (mug, spoon, bowl, knife).
Individual first aid kit.

ATTENTION!

To issue passes to the border zone, documents must be submitted 3 weeks before the expected start date of the tour! For foreign citizens - 2 months.

(all photos were taken with a phone)

I have a cousin who is a climber. The last time we saw each other was 20 years ago, when the brother was not yet a climber, but was a double bass and passed through Saratov from another hike with a walkie-talkie and a machine gun on his shoulders in the Chechen Republic. There he earned himself, besides a reduced fare on the certificate of a participant in hostilities, some metal brackets in the spine, after which, in order to strengthen his back, he took up rock climbing first, and then mountaineering. She also runs marathons sometimes. Although we did not see each other, but, the stump is clear, thanks social networks communicated. Several times he called me with him to the mountains, then to Elbrus, then somewhere else, but something somehow did not grow together. This year, he offered to go with him to "conquer" the highest point of the Eastern Sayan mountains - Mount Munku-Sardyk in Buryatia. This time I signed up. This decision was facilitated by the brother's assurances that Munku-Sardyk is a mountain for suckers, without categories, so it will be easy for me to climb it.

In general, now I will share my impressions. A number of travel agencies lead tourists to Munku-Sardyk in an organized manner, so my writings, perhaps, will help someone make a decision to go or not to go.

But first I will say that I have never been a climber. From words in general and completely. The physical form is not the worst, but specifically leaves much to be desired. Favorite physical exercise - back support lying on the sofa with a laptop on his stomach. AT hiking went in distant childhood and already forgot how it's done. If I knew what kind of fizukh it would be, then I would not agree to life. In general, in the phrase " leisure”, regarding this event, the word “rest” is clearly an extra word. All that I will write below is the essence of the impression of a teapot that first hit the mountains, so professional hikers and climbers can safely leaf through my writings, because it will be boring for them.

In short, my task was to get to Irkutsk, with minimal equipment and clothes suitable for this purpose, where my brother and comrades were supposed to pick me up in a car, take me to the Tunka Valley, to the mouth of the White Irkut, from where the ascent was actually supposed to begin. Yes ... about a month before the trip, passes were received to the border zone, because Mount Munku-Sardyk is not just located in it, the border with Mongolia passes just along its top.
Impressions began immediately upon arrival, when I saw what to go.

Desperate people drove on this pepelats right from under Yekaterinburg. By the way, this is food for thought for those who whine that his life is boring, but there is no money for adventures. This device, I think, costs a little more than the price tag for the Moscow-Irkutsk-Moscow flight. And with the help of it, people traveled half of Russia to Buryatia, and then they will go to Tuva, through Khakassia, climb Mount Mogun-Taiga, and then back to Yoburg, spending the night in a tent and eating a meal cooked on a gas stove. Yes... a rather specific pastime (far from Egypt with all-inclusive), but certainly not boring. The path lay through Slyudyanka (a town on the shores of Lake Baikal), but the “glorious sea” was not particularly impressive.

It was dog cold, Baikal was under ice, the coast in the Slyudyanka area is not very picturesque, at least at this time. Where more picturesque turned out to be Tunkinskaya valley, which the Buryats have entirely declared a national park. This meant that you had to pay money for entry (I think 100 rubles per person). I want to note ..., despite the fact that in fact the area where we were going was a hole in a hole, the quality of the roads was very decent. Comparing to Saratov region(Europe, blah!) I can say that the roads in Buryatia will be steeper.

Mount Munku-Sardyk is considered sacred by the locals, in connection with which a significant number of leaflets are stuck in the vicinity, calling for the ascent to be abandoned. The Buryats themselves, it seems to me, are more than indifferent to this. In early May, a mass ascent of all comers begins on Munka, called the mountain festival. At this time there is not overcrowded with people, which is why we arrived there a few days earlier.

(this is where the trail starts)

When I saw how much equipment was being unloaded from the car, mentally divided it by the number of participants in the campaign, I was already somewhat depressed. Night in sleeping bag and the tent, on which a snowball fell by nightfall, as well as morning washing in a cold river, also somehow did not add optimism.
In the morning, when we scattered equipment and food in backpacks, it turned out that we would have to carry about 30 kg. The brother, as the leader of the sortie, dragged a 120-liter backpack, which, according to my estimates, weighed about 40 kg. This despite the fact that he himself is 65 kg. weighs.

The path to the mountain passes through the ice of the frozen bed of the Bely Irkut River. According to the map, from the bridge across Bolshaya Irkut to the top is about 9 km. In reality, taking into account the zigzags of the walking path, it is about 14 km. For students in the Soviet high school, I’ll add: the distance on the map is the essence of the legs, the second leg will be the elevation difference from the level of the starting point to the top, and therefore the conditional hypotenuse in the form of a rise will be a few more kilometers more. But it still doesn't reflect reality. While the rise was more or less smooth, it was somehow still tolerable, but then, blah, pebbles began, along which it was necessary to climb up. Climb sometimes.

Very soon I was covered in soap, sweat climbed into my eyes, mixing with sunscreen, and my tongue fell out on my shoulder. From the loss of face saved only complexes. There was an aunt in the group who pearled exactly the same backpack with a straight face. Requiring rest stops and being too blatant about my physical o…e was a bit creepy. After 6 hours, when I was already tired of getting tired, my brother gave the command to put up a tent and settle down for the night. I stuttered so much that after eating I got off in a moment, despite the tea with sagan-dajlya (http://etochay.ru/etnicheskiy/dolgoletiya-sagan-dajlya.html), which we kicked on the way. However, given the 5 hour difference with Moscow in time and acclimatization, x / s, which made me more tired.

The next day, we had to climb to the very top. They left all the junk in the tent, they took with them only warm clothes in backpacks, a thermos with tea and safety harnesses. We left at 8:50. As before, if I knew how far to go and on which road, I would definitely merge. Fortunately for me, I did not imagine this, and the prospect of not having a heavy backpack when climbing inspired false hopes.

Ass! We had not yet reached Lake Ekhoi, as I already wanted to go back to the tent, I was again in soap and with my tongue on my shoulder. The brother, apparently forgetting that there is a weak link in his group, set a very vigorous pace (he is the only one carrying a heavy backpack with equipment “just in case”). As a result, on the way to the top, almost no one overtook us, with the exception of a pretty young lady in some fashionable equipment, who, like a tractor, pushed past us uphill and met us at the top, already descending from it. By the lake (it was covered with snow) there were several tents and people were hanging out. The wind has begun. I had to get snowboard junk and warm up. The path that the previous climbing comrades had trodden was swept up, so we had to climb almost knee-deep in snow.

Gradually, the hill became steep, if it were not for the crampons on the boots, the legs would have begun to slip specifically. Extreme meters 150 (by altimeter) became generally cool, and then quite cool. It was already necessary to climb, using all four moslas. The problem was also that citizens who had already been on the top periodically descended from above and it was very inconvenient to disperse with them. Somewhere in 30-40 meters from the peak, a dude was caught, who was stupidly lying on the stones, like a fish taken out of the water. He was so tired that he could no longer climb up. Potz said that, like me, it was his first time in the mountains, and in terms of obscene language, he wondered how the hell he had given up. As a result, he climbed a little later to the top and jumped there like a bunny. As for me, about 80 meters from the top, the body, apparently realizing that it would die soon, turned on the turbocharging, so I climbed quite easily. An interesting detail... All the climbers we met politely greeted us (and we, of course, with them). Climbing to the top, I seem to have caught up with the meaning of it. This is not just politeness ... it really takes a lot of health, so wishing it once again to the oncoming one is the right thing to do. Looking ahead a little, so that some readers don’t feel sorry for me so much, I’ll say that neither my legs nor my shoulders hurt after this sortie and didn’t even get rubbed. The main problem is the breath and back, because, as I said before, a 100-liter backpack has never taxed in my life, shamefully evaded deadlift.

We were very lucky, because after 20 minutes, after we had risen, the clouds were a little bit blown away by the wind and we had the pleasure of seeing Khubsugul Lake, located on Mongolian territory, from above. To my surprise it worked cellular(the phone was not online for the third day), so it turned out to show off in front of everyone, in front of whom I wanted, directly from the place.

It was much easier to go back down, the stump is clear, except for places with a very steep slope. In these areas, going down was harder than climbing up. We returned to the tent 11 hours later, from the beginning of the exit.

The next day, having collected junk and a tent, we went down from the "circus", where we camped to the confluence of the White Irkut and Muguvek (the so-called "strelka"). There were already crowds of climbing and tourist people, there were heaps of tents and even magnets were sold.

We set up a tent, after which the bro solemnly announced that since the weather was bad, we met the ascent in a short time, BINGO!!!, bonus game! "BLAAAAAT!!!" - I thought, for I was already fed up with walking in crampons and a helmet. I languidly tried to offer an alternative, in the form of an extra day on the plain with beer and a bath, but I was in the minority. In short climbed to Obzornaya. From the decisive breakthrough to its top (however, the hill looked more like a hill) was saved only by the fact that we left the camp after lunch and, directly, at the foot of the mountain where this stone stands, it was too late.

The slopes were covered with concrete mud and snow began to fall. After evaluating all the pros and cons, we decided not to climb, which I was incredibly happy about.

On the way back (down), both this day and the next, somehow it was better photographed.

After spending the night on the “strelka”, we went down to the bridge over the B. Irkut, where we left the car, after which we moved to Arshan (local resort). When we left, there were already huge crowds of people who came to the festival. The space under the bridge was densely packed with cars.

Before I describe the last couple of days in Buryatia, I’ll say a few words about Putin’s notorious fighting Buryats (cat. PTN PNKh), who, according to Svidomo’s statements, were fired ... or they were under some kind of Ilovaisk.
I declare with authority that they exist. Many, maybe not the same ones, of course, I saw in the vicinity of Munku-Sardyk. They are of two types. The first are Buryats with machine guns and in camouflage - border guards, who have checked our passports and passes to the border zone 5-6 times for all the time. The second are crowds of people in climbing equipment, pushing hefty backpacks uphill, absolutely on a voluntary basis, without any coercion and deceit. Among them were both minors and clearly elderly people of both sexes. Even grandfathers were bearded. Some, in addition to a huge backpack, also dragged a snowboard or skis up. Unlike me, it was completely normal for them. People obviously enjoyed such outings.
In general, I would register such people in the military registration and enlistment offices, as they used to do with personal vehicles, in case of mobilization. For a close-knit company of climbers who climb mountains with 40 kg. -mi backpacks, spend the night in the snow in a tent and cook at the stake - this is a ready-made sabotage and reconnaissance detachment, you just need to train them a little in explosives, handling weapons and captive languages.

April 2018 route: Irkutsk - Mondy (A-164) - Munku-Sardyk.

The height of Munku-Sardyk is 3,491 meters above sea level, this is the highest high peak Eastern Saiyan. The mountain is located on the border of Buryatia (Russia) and Mongolia.

"Friends of hikers" called me on a hike to Munka-Sardyk, and the date of the dressage was determined in advance. Since Munku-Sardyk is located on the Russian-Mongolian border, it is necessary to take care of obtaining a pass to the border zone in advance - applications of citizens of the Russian Federation are considered up to 30 days, foreigners - up to 60 days. You can apply remotely either through the public services website or by e-mail. I ordered a pass through the website of the State Service, with delivery to the postal address, it took 10 days for everything and the pass was in my hands. Here you will find all the comprehensive information on obtaining a permit https://angara.net/forum/t106692

We got from Irkutsk to the border control point in Mondy in about 4 hours on a good asphalt road, it took half an hour to border control, after which the barrier was opened and we drove further to the bridge at the mouth of the White Irkut, where the trail to Munka-Sardyk begins. The cars were left next to the yurt in the parking lot, then from the bridge they stomped to the arrow (the confluence of the Bely Irkut and Muguvek rivers).

While collecting information on the Internet, I read a lot of reviews and articles about Munka-Sardyk, stories about how it is morally and physically very difficult to climb, that some people had severe health problems from the rarefied atmosphere, as sometimes there were accidents when people broke down from steep slopes, about avalanches that periodically descend from the slopes of the mountains. They scare the tourists. The information also differed on the time required for the ascent, some took 5 days, others managed to climb and descend from the bridge in a day.

At the end of the article I will give my opinion on all controversial issues.

We walked 2 hours to the arrow with backpacks, set up a base camp on the spot and started climbing Munka-Sardyk in the morning.

During the night a lot of snow fell, in the morning the snow still did not stop pouring. The clouds hung very low, the top of Munku-Sardyk was not visible.

Climbing equipment is required to climb the glacier safely. I rented only crampons, I didn’t carry an ice ax with me, trekking poles are enough for me. The ascent uphill is very steep, in some places it becomes very scary when you look down. It is physically and morally difficult, I personally saw this for myself and those around me, on the way I met a girl who has a fear of heights, she didn’t go further than the ridge (a section of 100 meters to the top), they got scared.

From the top of Munku-Sardyk you can see the Mongolian plains and Lake Khubsugul, from the northern side of Lake Baikal. Unfortunately, due to heavy cloud cover, we could not contemplate all this beauty. At the top, cellular communication catches, but you need to be careful with roaming, since the mountain is located on the border of two countries - a step to the right is roaming Mongolia, a step to the left is the operator of Russia.

Going down the mountain is much faster than climbing the mountain, but the descent is no less dangerous for me, the man decided to move down the slope on the priest, while not taking off the crampons. ended up spraining my leg. Everyone has a different time to climb Munka Sardyk and descend differently, we managed in two days, on the way back we met a group that was returning back, they managed to go to Munka with backpacks from the bridge in one light day and return back. It all depends on the time, physical and psychological preparation, but if you do not rush, 2.3 days will be required for the trip. Separately, I would like to express my gratitude to my "friends hikers" without whom my conquest of the summit would not have taken place.