The legend of the founding of the city

During the excavations of recent years, settlements of the early Bronze Age near the Ayazuluk hill were found. In 1954, a cemetery from the Mycenaean era (1500-1400 BC) was found near the ruins of the Basilica of St. John. Among the finds were ceramics.

Judging by the Hittite sources, the city was called Apasha (Apasa), from where the later “Efes” comes from, and was for a short time the capital of the confederation or kingdom of Artsava, hostile to the Hittites and allied to the Achaeans.

Ephesus was the capital of a small Carian state during the post-Hittite Bronze Age, then settled by Ionian Greeks from Athens.

Hellenic period

In the 10th century BC. e. on the hill of Ayazuluk, three kilometers from the center of ancient Ephesus, a Greek colony was founded, which is confirmed by excavations in the 1990s at the Selçuk castle. Around 650 BC. e. Ephesus was attacked and destroyed by the Cimmerians. The temple of Artemis was also destroyed. The Archaeological Museum of Ephesus has several Cimmerian finds.

After the expulsion of the Cimmerians, tyranny was established in the city. The following tyrants from the Basilid clan are known (sometimes they are called kings):

• Melas I - married to the sister of King Lydia Gyges
• Miletus - married to King Lydia's sister Sadiatta
• Pythagoras - briefly seized power around 600 BC. e. and apparently did not belong to the genus Basilid
• Melas II - married to the daughter of King Lydia Aliatt III
• Pindar - the son of Melas II, ruled until the conquest of the city by the Lydian king Croesus (c. 560 BC)
• Melas III - son of Pindar, protege of the Lydian king Croesus, ruled until 555 BC. e.
• Aristarchus - ruled from 555 BC e.
• Athenagoras - ruled as a vassal of the Persians
• Comas - ruled as a vassal of the Persians
• Melankom - ruled as a vassal of the Persians, con. 5th century BC e.

Periodically, during the uprisings, the city tried to free itself from tyranny and power passed to the council, called Kuret. The city flourished, by this time the work of such notable people as Kallin (elegiac poet), Hipponax (satirist), Heraclitus (philosopher), Parrasius (artist), Zenodotus (philologist and poet), physicists Soranus of Ephesus and Rufus.

In 394 BC. e. Ephesians participated in the campaign of Conon, who overthrew the hegemony of Sparta. According to the peace of Antalkid in 387 BC. e. Ephesus again recognized the power of Persia. Then the city fell under the rule of the tyrant Sirfax.

The revolt in Ephesus, which began after the treacherous murder of Agathocles, son of Lysimachus, gave Seleucus I Nicator, another commander of Alexander the Great and founder of the Seleucid dynasty, a chance to eliminate his rival and subjugate Asia Minor. Lysimachus died at the battle of Curupedion in 281 BC. e., after which the city became part of the Seleucid state and again became known as Ephesus. However, already in 263 BC. e. Ephesus was captured by Pharaoh Ptolemy III and until 197 BC. e. was under Egyptian rule.

Christianity in Ephesus

Starting from the 50s. e. Ephesus is an important center of early Christianity. In 52-54 years. the apostle Paul lived here, doing missionary work. The apostle John also lived here, and perhaps it was here that he wrote his Gospel. He is buried in the church named after him [ source?] . Ephesus was also among the seven cities mentioned in the Revelation of John the Theologian (2:1). The Apostle John could not be buried in Ephesus, since he spent the last days of his life in exile on the island of Patmos, where, according to legend, he was buried alive, and when the grave was dug up a few days later, his body was not found.

According to some medieval legends, the Virgin Mary, the Mother of Jesus Christ, lived her last years in this city. The first church in the world, consecrated in the name of the Mother of God, was also built here. Stories about the seven sleeping youths and the life of Lazarus of Galicia are associated with this area.

A council was convened at Ephesus in 431 to decide whether Jesus was only divine or also human. “On this issue, the church split: roughly speaking, the bishops east of Suez supported Nestorius, and the bishops west of Suez supported St. Cyril ... Western bishops were the first, locked the doors for latecomers and hastily ruled in favor of St. Cyril, who presided over the meetings of the council." Third Ecumenical Council

House of the Virgin Mary

During His crucifixion, Jesus Christ bequeathed to His Mother to take care of John as of her own son, and to John to take care of Mary as of her own mother. Since the apostles divided the territories among themselves for the spread of Christianity, and the territory of Asia Minor went to John, he settled the Virgin Mary in Ephesus, where she lived the last years of her life.

Currently, in this area (7 km from the city) there is a small church, which is a place of pilgrimage for Christians. Muslims in these places also deeply respect her as a shrine. A spring has also been preserved, the water from which is healing. Near it is a wall of desires, where everyone can make a wish by fixing a bundle of any matter on specially installed gratings.

Population

5,000 people ± 200 people

Notable residents and natives:

• Kallin (elegiac poet)
• Hipponax (satirist)
• Heraclitus (philosopher)
• Parrasius (artist)
• Zenodotus (philologist and poet)

Attractions

Ephesus has many archaeological sites. The city is especially rich in monuments of the Roman era, among the cities of the eastern Mediterranean there are the most of them. Far from everything has been excavated yet, but what can be seen gives some idea of ​​the former splendor of the city.

Celsius Library

Celsius Library

Odeon

The semicircular structure, also known as the Maly Theatre, stands on a hillside to the north of the Agora. Judging by the inscription, it was built in 150 AD. e. Publius Vedius Anthony. The original purpose of the odeon was the bouleuterium, the seat of the City Senate. The first indoor building, designed for 1400 seats, was used alternately: either for meetings of the Senate, or for theatrical performances. architectural solution odeon similar to classic models:

• an auditorium with its two-tiered semicircle of rows, divided into four main sectors by stairways;
• the design of the proscenium suggests that the building was intended more for meetings of the Senate than for theatrical performances.

Agora

The ruins of the Agora belong to the Romanesque buildings of the Roman Empire, most likely built during the reign of the emperors Augustus and Claudius. The Agora, which was finally built up under Theodosius (4th century), was decorated with a double colonnade of a portico, under which there were trading rows. It was the center of trading activity, where merchants from all over the Empire gathered. There was also a slave market and meetings were held on occasions of religious and secular holidays. To the north of the Agora are the ruins of the Basilica colonnade, built during the Augustan dynasty.

Theatre

theater ruins

In fact, this, apparently, is just a favorite legend (“tale”) of all tour guides. It is unlikely, according to historians, it was a brothel, most likely just the house of wealthy citizens. And also the fact that in one of its rooms portraits of a man and a woman are depicted (supposedly speaking about the occupation in this house), is not necessarily a symbol of a brothel, since such an image was always present in rich houses, namely portraits of the owners. The small rooms referred to in the legends are also not necessarily lovemaking rooms, as they are in fact the standard size for such wealthy houses. Also in this house were found figurines of the god of fertility (respectively, with a large genital organ) and this, according to many guides, is evidence that this building was a brothel. But again, historians say that many matrimonial bedrooms of that period were decorated with such figurines.

Street Kuretov

Gate of Hercules

AT certain time the pritane chewed opium, and, drunk, dancing, walked from the pritaniya to the Temple of Artemis. If at that time the clergyman was noticed by a criminal who was being taken to execution, then he was released.

Temple of Artemis

Ruins of the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus

Only one inconspicuous column survived from the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the world. The column was found during archaeological excavations conducted by the British Museum in the 1870s. Insignificant fragments of the frieze and a few other small finds are partly in the British Museum, partly in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.

Notes

Links

If you have long dreamed of visiting the ruins of an ancient metropolis and feeling the ancient atmosphere, then it's time to go to the historical complex of Ephesus, Turkey. The unique city-museum, classified as a UNESCO heritage site, annually gathers travelers from all over the world on its territory. The Temple of Artemis, the Library of Celsus, the House of the Virgin Mary - just a small part of what awaits you in this cradle of antiquity. What is Ephesus, and what sights are spread on its territory, we consider in our article.

General information

ancient city Ephesus is located in western Turkey, 7 km from the Aegean coast and 80 km south of Izmir. It is a historical complex ancient structures spread over an area of ​​4.15 sq. km. For the most part, Ephesus gained fame thanks to the cult of the goddess of fertility Artemis, in whose honor a temple was built in the city, later ranked as one of the seven wonders of the world.

Today, the nearest settlements to Ephesus are the town of Selçuk, located 3 km to the east, and the resort of Kusadasi, located 17 km to the southwest. The historical complex is considered one of the most valuable sights in Turkey, which is visited by hundreds of thousands of tourists every year. And to make your acquaintance with Ephesus more exciting and informative, let's plunge into its rich history for a moment.

History reference

Artemis of Ephesus

The ancient city of Ephesus in Turkey is located on the territory, the first settlements on which appeared in the Neolithic era, i.e. around the ninth millennium BC. The metropolis itself was founded in the 10th century BC. According to the legend, its creator was the son of the Athenian ruler Androclus, who fell in love with an Amazon from local tribes named Ephesia during urban planning. In her honor, as the legend says, the city was named. It is noteworthy that initially Ephesus was located on the shores of the Aegean Sea, but over the centuries the coast dried up, and the ancient metropolis itself went deep into the mainland.

Alexander the Great

Thanks to his geographic location Ephesus quickly turned into an important port and trade center, becoming a real tidbit for conquerors from different parts of the world. In the 6th century BC. the Lydians ruled here, later overthrown by the Persians, who in turn were driven out by the troops of Alexander the Great. During the heyday of the Roman Empire, the city passed to the Romans and was under their patronage until the middle of the 3rd century, when the Goths invaded and sacked Ephesus, leading it to absolute decline.

It was possible to restore the glorious city during the reign of Byzantium. At the turn of the 5th-6th centuries. Ephesus became the second largest metropolis of the empire after Constantinople. The Byzantines rebuilt the city and actively used it for trading purposes. But in the 7th century, the coast of Ephesus began to dry up and gradually filled with silt, which led to the loss of access to the Aegean Sea. As a result, trade completely came to naught, and the city itself lost all significance for the Byzantine Empire.

Isa Bey Mosque

During the formation of the Ottoman Empire, Ephesus briefly regained the status of a prosperous metropolis. The Seljuks who came here built new baths, mosques and caravanserais on the territory. However, in the 15th century, the neighboring city of Ayasoluk (modern Selçuk) took on greater importance for the Ottomans, and Ephesus was finally abandoned.

What can be seen on the territory of Ephesus today

Even with a fleeting glance at the photo of the sights of Ephesus in Turkey, you can understand what scale this historical complex reaches. In addition to the well-known Temple of Artemis, there are unique monuments of antiquity, many of which have been preserved in excellent condition. What can you see on the territory of modern Ephesus?

Temple of Artemis

Of course, we will begin our description with one of the seven wonders of the world in Ephesus, the Temple of Artemis, from which, unfortunately, almost nothing remains today. The building was erected in the 6th century BC. in honor of the goddess of fertility and the patroness of all life on earth - Artemis. It took about 120 years to build the temple. In those days, he was majestic building with 127 columns, each 18 m high. The temple was 110 meters long and 55 meters wide.

However, this wonder of the world was not destined to live long. Already in the 4th century BC. A madman named Herostratus set fire to the Temple of Artemis. As a result, the main part of the structure burned down, from which only the columns remained. Later, Herostratus explained his act by the desire to write himself into the annals of history, after which he was executed, and his name was forbidden to be mentioned in the annals. During his reign, Alexander the Great tried to restore the temple, but the Goths soon destroyed it, and later the sanctuary of Artemis finally fell into decay.

Modern photos of the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus confirm the fact that it was built on a swamp. That is why the building literally disappeared from the face of the earth, drowning in the abyss over the centuries. Today, only one dilapidated column remains from the building, bored in the middle of the swamp, and a couple of stone blocks in the area. A miniature copy of the Temple of Artemis can be seen in the Istanbul miniature park, but it is unlikely that it can at least partially convey the greatness of the structure that has sunk into oblivion.

House of the Virgin Mary

In addition to the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus, there is another historically important attraction - the house of the Virgin Mary. According to the Catholic version, after the ascension of Christ, the Mother of God remained to live in Jerusalem, where she preached Christianity. But there is another version, which says that the Virgin Mary spent her last years of life (about 9 years) in Ephesus. Such information arose as a result of the testimonies of a number of local residents, as well as on the basis of a vision that appeared to the German nun A.K. Emmerich at the end of the 19th century.

Today, the house of the Virgin Mary in Ephesus is a miniature building, inside of which a small cellar has been preserved. In the middle of the last century, the building was renovated, and a chapel was located within its walls, where believers from all over the world come to pray. Despite the fact that officially the Catholic Church rejects the version that the Mother of God lived in Ephesus, over the past half century, three popes have already visited here.

Having visited the house of the Virgin in Ephesus, be sure to look at the Bolshoi Theater and the Odeon, which have come down to us in excellent condition. The grandiose three-tiered structure in the form of an ancient Roman amphitheater once accommodated up to 25 thousand spectators, and its upper rows were at a height of 30 m. Today, the height of the building reaches only 18 m, and in total there are 66 rows in it. In ancient times, the theater stage was decorated carved columns and skillful sculptures, which, unfortunately, have not survived to this day.

Odeon

In Ephesus there is another theater of a much smaller scale, but no less interesting - the Odeon. It is designed for 1500 seats and is a two-tier semicircular structure, divided into four sections, cut off from each other by staircases. As a rule, in ancient times buildings of this type were used for singing events, but this theater primarily served for meetings of the Senate, in between which theatrical performances were held here.

Among the sights of Ephesus, the ruins of an outstanding architectural monument of the era of the Roman Empire deserve special attention. This is the library of Celsus, built at the beginning of the 2nd century during the heyday of Rome. The author of the building was the architect Tiberius Julius Aquila, who named it in honor of the highly educated statesman Celsus, who was his father. The library was not only a repository for more than 12 thousand scrolls, but also a tomb for Celsus himself. During excavations carried out in Ephesus at the beginning of the 20th century, archaeologists managed to find a marble tomb with the remains of a once famous Roman.

But, like the temple of Artemis in Ephesus, the library of Celsus did not manage to survive to this day due to the invasion of the merciless Goths, who burned the building almost to the ground. Only the facade remained from the building, but it was also destroyed as a result of an earthquake in the era of the Byzantine Empire. The remains of the library that we see today are only a reconstruction of the building, which was recreated from the surviving ruins. Currently, you can see a two-story facade with columns, the space between which is decorated with four sculptures of women, symbolizing Virtue, Wisdom, Knowledge and Thought. But these statues are only copies, and the originals are now kept in the Vienna Museum.

Other attractions

Among other attractions of Ephesus in Turkey, it is worth highlighting:

Temple of Hadrian

• Basilica of St. John the Evangelist, built in Byzantine times
• The ruins of the ancient Agora - the market square, once decorated with colonnades
• Temple of Domitian, in ancient times decorated with 21 columns and sculptures, of which today only ruins remain
• Terraced houses are the former dwellings of wealthy citizens: their peculiarity was that each house served as a terrace for the next; frescoes and mosaic floors have been preserved in many buildings
• Temple of Hadrian, erected in honor of the Roman emperor and at one time decorated with colonnades, arches and sculptures of other rulers
• Kuretov Street, once paved with marble and decorated with statues and columns

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Opening hours and ticket prices

The historical complex of Ephesus in Turkey is open daily. In the period from April 15 to October 2, the attraction is open from 8:00 to 18:30, from October 3 to April 14 - from 8:00 to 17:00. The cost of the entrance ticket in 2018 is 10 $ (40 TL). If you are a museum card holder, admission is free.

A visit to the terraced houses, the Basilica of St. John and the archaeological museum is paid separately: the ticket price, depending on the attraction, is from $ 2 to 3 (5-10 TL). Also for $ 5 (20 TL) you can purchase an audio guide in Russian. Entrance tickets are sold at the box office and self-service terminals.

Gate of Hercules

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How to get to Ephesus

It is most convenient to get to the city of Ephesus in Turkey from the nearby settlements - the towns of Selcuk and Kusadasi. Ephesus is located 3 km west of Selcuk, and you can get here by dolmush from the city bus station. Travel time takes no more than 10 minutes. The cost of the trip is 0.6 $ (2.5 TL).

If you are staying in Turkey at the resort of Kusadasi, located 17 km southeast of Ephesus, then the road to the complex will take you about half an hour. You can get to the ancient city by dolmush, following the Kusadasi-Selchuk route, which departs from the city bus station several times an hour. The fare is $1.2 (5 TL). In this case, you need to warn the driver that you are going to Ephesus, and get off the dolmush at the turn marked "Efes". Then you just have to overcome 1 km on a straight road to the complex.

Of course, you can get to the ancient city by taxi, rented car, or book a tour with a guide. But all these options are much more expensive. Although it is up to you to decide which ways to get to the city of Ephesus, Turkey, will be the most suitable for you.

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The address: Turkey
Founded: 10th century BC
Destroyed: 15th century
Main attractions: Temple of Artemis, Library of Celsus, Bolshoi Theatre, Odeon (Small Theatre), Temple of Hadrian, Kuretov Street
Coordinates: 37°56"24.3"N 27°20"29.8"E

Content:

The ancient Greek city of Ephesus - the same one where the temple of Artemis stood, destroyed by Herostratus in 356 BC - is today on the Aegean coast of Turkey, between the cities of Izmir and Kusadasi.

Gate of Hercules

The ruins of ancient Ephesus are buried under an impenetrable swamp, and the part that has already been excavated is surrounded by a fence and is a museum under open sky. Ephesus is one of the few cities where the structure of the ancient Greek settlement has been perfectly preserved.

Walking along the ancient streets and looking at architectural monuments, a tourist can get an idea of ​​the former splendor of the Greek policy. The ruins of the Roman agora and the Maly Theatre, baths, fountains and rich quarters of mansions impress travelers with their impressive size and art of execution.

Street Kuretov

Ephesus - the city of the Amazon

Ephesia The Greek colony of Ephesus was founded in the 11th century BC. Legends connect the appearance of the city with the name of Androclus - the son of the Athenian ruler Kodra. In those days, the Greeks, who were building a new policy, turned to the Delphic oracle for advice, which indicated the place where the future colony was founded. The oracle told Androclus that the city should be founded in those lands where three "signs" come together - fire, fish and a boar. Traveling along the coast of the Aegean Sea, Androclus found such a place: on the shore of the bay, the fishermen were frying fish, and the sparks that flew from the fire set fire to the tree, from which the disturbed boar ran out. Soon Androclus met with the Amazon warriors, one of whom, Ephesia, he fell in love with and named the city in her honor - Ephesus.

Library of Celsus

The Rise and Fall of Ephesus

Ephesus developed rapidly thanks to trade, but it reached its peak under the Lydian king Croesus in 560 - 546 BC. e. Interestingly, when the Lydians of Croesus invaded the city, locals did not have any fortifications. They only connected the gates of Ephesus with the temple of Artemis with a rope - so, they believed, it would be easier for the goddess to protect them! Touched by such naivety, Croesus stopped the siege and even donated funds to the temple treasury. Later, Ephesus flourished under the rule of the Persians, it was part of the Roman Republic, Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire, and in the 15th century AD. fell into disrepair and was finally abandoned.

Bolshoi theater from a bird's eye view

Ephesus - the center of early Christianity

In the 50s AD. Ephesus became one of the most important centers for the spread of Christianity. Apostle Paul and John the Theologian preached here. According to legend, the Virgin Mary, the mother of I. Christ, spent the rest of her earthly life in this city. In Ephesus, the House of the Virgin has been preserved - a small building with a basement, where the Blessed Virgin lived her last days.

In 1950 the building was reconstructed and rebuilt into a chapel. Although Jerusalem is traditionally considered the place of the Assumption of the Virgin, and the Vatican has not officially recognized the shrine as the House of St. Mary, it was visited by the popes - Paul VI, John Paul II, and Benedict XVI. On August 15, the Ascension Day of Our Lady, especially many pilgrims flock to the chapel, often of different faiths.

Temple of Hadrian

A little higher up the hill, above the main entrance to archaeological park Ephesus are the catacombs and the grotto "Seven Sleepers", where, according to legend, Christian martyrs were immured alive, who fell asleep in a wonderful dream for almost 200 years.

Ephesus Attractions

Many monuments have been excavated in Ephesus, and most of them belong to the Roman era. The upper part of Ephesus begins with the well-preserved Baths of Varius, to which ceramic pipes are connected. At the foot of the baths is located Caldarium - a room where hot water was supplied. The Agora is nearby. main square Ephesus, where brisk trade was in full swing in past centuries, celebrations were held on occasions of religious and secular holidays.

Fountain of Troyan

To the north of the Agora are the ruins of a basilica from the time of the Emperor Augustus, and behind the basilica is the Small Odeon Theater (150 BC), from the upper rows of which there are amazing views of the baths of Varius and Prytania - the meeting place of the municipality of Ephesus. Near Prytania, in the temple of Vesta (3rd century BC), a hearth for a sacred fire was discovered. Along the slope from the Gate of Hercules to the Agora stretches Kuretov Avenue - the longest and most majestic street in all of Ephesus, decorated with columns, galleries, sculptures, fountains, mosaics.

Odeon (Maly Theatre)

Of particular interest to tourists are such monuments as the temple of Hadrian (118-138 AD), the Bolshoi Theater (III-II centuries BC), the library of Celsius (110-135 AD). ) and the Brothel connected with it by an underground passage - thus, the men of Ephesus could deceive their wives, saying that they were going to the library to read tomes. The Bolshoi Theater, which served as the arena of gladiator fights in the Roman era, is still amazing. Its vaults can accommodate up to 25,000 spectators, and thanks to the excellent acoustics, the speaker on stage can be heard well not only on the lower and upper tiers, but also outside the hall.

Ruins of the Temple of Artemis

From the Temple of Artemis, famous as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, only an inconspicuous column survived. It was found during excavations carried out by English scientists in the 1870s. Small fragments of the ornament and a few more finds are kept in the British Museum and the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.

The ruins of the ancient ancient city of Ephesus are one of the most popular attractions in Turkey and invariably attract a sea of ​​tourists. This monument is located on the western coast of Turkey, not far from small town Selcuk.

Back in the second century BC. there was a city here, and the city of Ephesus itself was once erected here as a port. The city reached its peak during the period of the Roman Empire - it was the second most important city after Rome. Subsequently, the sea receded to the west, the importance of the city fell sharply and it fell into disrepair.

Ephesus covers about 10 square kilometers, but most of its treasures are hidden in impenetrable swamps. But even what is on the surface is more than enough to spend the whole day here. Archaeological research of the ancient settlement was started in 1869 by English scientists and they are still ongoing.

Ephesus is one of the few ancient cities that you can walk around today. Just stroll through its streets, contemplating architectural structures of past centuries, dilapidated, excavated by archaeologists, and re-presented to the world as proof of the boundlessness of the flight of human imagination. Changing cultures and religions, people, as a rule, destroyed everything that came their way, not caring in the least about what descendants would think. And we regret the lost and try to imagine in our imagination what has not been preserved - the facades of houses richly decorated with stucco, the brightness and pretentiousness of the patterns of mosaic coverings, the grandeur of temples, the vaults of which soar on numerous rows of marble columns ...

Long ago, during the period of the Great Colonization, when the Ionian Greeks actively explored the coasts of the Mediterranean, Black, Aegean, Marmara Seas (and it was between the 16th and 11th centuries BC) - all those seas that wash the peninsula Asia Minor occupied today amazing country Turkey - at the confluence of the Kaistra River into the Aegean Sea, the new city of Afasa was founded - the City by the River. This was preceded by almost mystical events. At that time, a king named Kodra ruled in Athens, and he had a son, Androclus. As you know, at all times and among all peoples, only God was higher than the king. And the Greeks have a whole pantheon of deities headed by Zeus.

The kings received news from their invisible patrons through the clergy. So Androclus received an order from the Delphic oracle - to found a new city on the coast of the Aegean Sea. Having gathered an army, Androclus immediately went to the lands where the Etruscans lived from time immemorial and among them a mysterious tribe of warriors, Amazons, who were not inferior to men in military art and therefore lived apart, only occasionally allowing men into their huts so that the Amazon family would continue. The oracle suggested to the son of Kodra where he should lay a new city - where three symbols come together - fish, fire and a wild boar. And Androcles found such a place. Having already despaired, having explored a vast territory, he decided to return home without salty slurping, as from a fire on which fish were fried before a long journey, sparks scattered, the nearest bush caught fire from them, a wild boar jumped out of the bush.

The oracle has come true! - exclaimed the prince and ordered to found a city on this place. Thus the will of the gods was fulfilled, and from that time the history of ancient Ephesus begins.

The city at the foot of Mount Bulbul (modern name) is the second incarnation of the city of Androcles. It was built by one of the associates of Alexander the Great, who conquered it, or, as they say, freed it from the power of Persia in 334 BC. The name of the new ruler of Ephesus was Lysimachus. Alexander the Great made a truly royal gift to his warrior. One misfortune was in Ephesus - the Kaistra River (or Small Menderes) tended to swamp, which led to the appearance of a huge number of mosquitoes that carried such a disease as malaria. People were dying, but flatly refused to leave their homes. Then the wise Lysimachus forced them to do this - he ordered not to supply water to the city. The inhabitants had no choice but to leave their homes and move away from the treacherous river.

Paved with marble and stones, the straight streets of the city descend down the mountain slope, and in the time of Lysimachus they led the traveler to the sea harbor, where numerous ships with goods landed. So the city developed due to extensive trade. But in the 3rd century BC, a strong earthquake occurred, as a result of which the sea receded, dropping 57 meters. This natural disaster, like the countless wars of conquest that weakened the once strong city, marked the beginning of the decline of Ephesus. Today ancient Ephesus - dead city. But every day it comes to life again, filled with the multilingual speech of tourists walking along its streets. From the eastern gate, a vibrant crowd wanders down the hill, listening to the entertaining stories of the guides and barely managing to capture all the sights in a two-hour tour, clicking cameras left and right.

The first building, which, of course, is remembered by everyone, without exception, is the Odeon or the Maly Theater. It is well preserved, although it was built in 150 AD and was intended for city council meetings. It is unlikely that the senators of Ephesus were dressed as colorfully as the people sitting on its steps-benches today! Groups of tourists are located in tight clusters in all four sectors of the auditorium and listen, listen to the soulful speeches of the guides right under the hot sun, since the roof of the Odeon collapsed seventeen centuries ago. Now three hills made of bricks are clearly visible from the theater, which rise on high pedestals to the left of the seated. With a good imagination, one can imagine what initial form they had and, having imagined, be surprised: they were statues of three bulls, powerful, with their heads down, ready to attack anyone who gets in their way. The bull is still a symbol of the Turkish city of Selcuk, which occupies the territory of ancient Ephesus. By the way, the modern inhabitants of Turkey, which united many ancient kingdoms within its borders, still like to erect monuments or sculptural compositions to animals, birds and even plants.

Clickable

So, in one of the cities on the way to Ephesus there is a monument to a fig - a fig tree in Greek - the same tree, with a large openwork leaf of which Adam and Eve covered their nakedness. But the monument was not built in honor of the biblical heroes, but because this sweet fruit, figs, is grown in these parts as the main agricultural crop. There is a monument to the rooster - in the city of Denizli, also nearby. This bird saved the city from a fire that happened in the early morning, so early that the rooster was not up to singing yet, but he sang, wailed and woke up the owner. And he, out of anger at the restless bird, decided to immediately cut off her head - he jumped out into the yard with an ax and ... saw a fire.

In Ephesus, the statues of people without heads are well preserved. Perhaps in those distant times they were made from some famous people or even the rulers of the city, but... their names have been swallowed up by history. But the bulls are still recognizable! Opposite the theater is the Agora, or simply put - market Square. They not only traded there, they held general civil meetings. That is - to talk with the whole world - welcome to the Agora, and if we whisper among ourselves on all sorts of political topics - we ask to the Odeon. But little remains of the Agora - openwork capitals from columns or parts of their own trunks, randomly scattered on the ground.

Ephesus is such an ancient city that along with the established facts of the appointments of dilapidated houses, the dates of the reigns of this or that emperor, there are legends that are organically woven into the canvas of history. The very name of the city gave rise to one of them - a beautiful fairy tale about the queen of the warlike tribe of the Amazons, who lived on these lands before the arrival of the Greeks. The name of that Amazon was Ephesia, which means desirable. And she was so beautiful that Androclus fell in love with her at first sight. It is not known whether Ephesia was inflamed with the same ardent feeling for the Greek prince, but, oddly enough, agreed to become his wife. And then, following the example of their queen, all the Amazons also found their husbands among the soldiers of Androclus. Either they were exhausted without men at all, or they showed female wisdom, realizing that they could die in the battle with the Greeks, but violated their oath to preserve a monogamous society. Fascinated by his wife, Androclus named his city after her. This is how Ephesus was born.

Description of female warriors are found in the myths and tales of the peoples different countries. According to one version, all the Amazons are the daughters of the god Ares and his beloved goddesses - Harmonia, Otrera and even Artemis herself, whom the Amazons of Asia Minor worshiped. They called their goddess Qibla. A distinctive feature of the goddess was many breasts. The statue of the goddess Artemis, found in Ephesus Artemisia, built in the 6th century BC, has come down to us. According to Greek mythology, Artemis was the sister of Apollo, the daughter of the almighty Zeus and the beautiful goddess Leto. The Amazons are always depicted on horseback, dressed in makeshift leather garments and helmets, armed with a bow, battle ax and a light shield. Their hair flutters over their shoulders, in their eyes there is courage, their faces are strict and express impregnability. And, of course, the warriors are slender as chamois, and at the same time, they have well-developed muscles of the arms and legs. But there is a description that says that the girls - the daughters of the Amazons burned out their left breasts for more convenient possession of weapons. And the Spartan way of life hardly contributed to the preservation of female beauty. Well, perhaps the male warriors from Athens liked the exotic female warriors more, and the gentle, well-groomed Greek women simply could not stand the competition.

From the Agora down to the library of Celsus, the Kuretov Street ran like an arrow. It can be called an avenue - a straight line, paved with stone and marble, with majestic buildings on both sides, it still impresses today. Pedestals are still preserved along the entire street, on which statues of gods and famous people that time. Surprisingly, the names engraved in stone have survived. The word "kuretes" in Ephesus was called the clergy of the Temple of Artemis, which, although it was part of the policy, still remained completely independent. The most stunning view of the street opens at the gates of Hercules - climbing onto the dilapidated wall of one of the buildings, you can see the entire perspective of the street.

And if you close your eyes and listen to people's speech, and at the same time forget about time, about the fact that the twenty-first century is in the yard, then the life of the city begins to seem natural. People go about their business - some to the bath of Scholastica, which is located behind the Temple of Hadrian, some to the public toilet, where both men and women relieve themselves at the same time to the sounds of an orchestra playing by a small fountain, so that natural sounds do not injure delicate hearing Ephesians. One can imagine how the owner of a rich house, the floor of which is decorated with a wide ribbon of mosaics, impatiently enlightened person strives to the library to immerse himself in the reading of ancient tomes, and perhaps use this as an excuse to get through the underground passage from the library to the Public the house opposite. And let the wife tell her friends what a smart husband she has, how he loves to read books! In the Greek period of the archaic, when culture was exalted to the level of the gods, Ionia - West Coast Asia Minor, where the city of Ephesus is located, was the most developed region of Greece. It was there that the first philosophical system of antiquity arose - natural philosophy. Philosophers pondered and argued, defending their view of the world, about its laws, comprehending the fundamental principle of things.

The city of Ephesus became famous for the name of Heraclitus of Ephesus (c.554-483 BC), who considered fire to be the fundamental principle of matter. In his opinion, both in nature and in society there is an eternal movement, an eternal struggle, being is constantly changing. How right Heraclitus was - and to this day those in power are fighting for it, still trying to change the world with fire and sword! The feeling of belonging to history is preserved throughout the walk along the street, which was buried under a thick layer of earth for almost two thousand years and was excavated by archaeologists only a little more than two centuries ago. The view of the perfectly preserved front part of the Library of Celsus is already mute delight - with four statues of goddesses, symbols of wisdom, consent, understanding. The library was built in the 2nd century AD in honor of the proconsul of Ephesus Celsus, whose marble tomb was later installed in the large niche of the hall. On the inside of the facade, there is a well-preserved inscription in Greek, which tells about the creation of the Library. Priceless papyri were kept in square niches along the walls of the reading room. In the 3rd century, during the invasion of the Goths, the Library burned down with all the books and scrolls. Alas! Apparently the Goths were not interested in the wisdom of the world, and they did not care at all about preserving the priceless treasures of literature, philosophy and history.

From the Library of Celsus to the right, through the gates of Mazeus and Mithridates, Marble Avenue goes to the most majestic building of Ephesus - the Theater, which simultaneously housed thirty thousand people. It gave theatrical performances and held gladiator fights. The theater was built in 117, but even today it is a grand building. It takes your breath away when you look at it from the side of Portovaya Street - even semicircles of 68 visual rows converge in perspective at the facade of a three-story building of the stage, facing the observer with its back side. The stage was decorated with Ionic and Corinthian columns, between which were sculptures of gods and emperors. The capital - the part of the column that completes its trunk at the top - in the Ionic version looks like a rolled scroll, and the Corinthian column is decorated with a more complex ornament and looks a little more elegant.

Of course, in the 2nd century, visitors to Ephesus could not see the inside of the Theater from the street, since it was covered with a roof, but one can easily imagine how it looked then. And what a magnificent landscape opened up from the Theater - after all, the sea harbor was practically next to it. Now to the coast of the Aegean Sea from the ancient ruins as much as twelve kilometers! But the Theater is not all that surprises the modern tourist in ancient Ephesus. The most significant building in its history, and not according to the preserved remains of walls and columns, remains the Temple of Artemis - that very many-breasted goddess who gives life to all living things, which has become a symbol of motherhood and fertility. Even in the period of antiquity, the Temple of Artemis was included in the seven wonders of the world along with Egyptian pyramids, Lighthouse of Alexandria, the Hanging Gardens of Babylon in Babylon, the statue of the Colossus of Rhodes, the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, the statue of Zeus in Olympia.

To the place where Artemisius once towered, today they travel by bus. After two hours of walking under the scorching sun, this is a few minutes of blissful relaxation under the coolness of air conditioners. The temple of Artemis of Ephesus, like the city of Ephesus itself, was rebuilt more than once. But invariably on the old foundation, which, as legends say, rested on a kind of pillow made of coal and bull skins - in this way the architect Harsifron protected the foundation from destruction by the swampy soil of this area. The first city of Ephesus, founded by Androclus, is still hidden by a swamp, and perhaps someday the time will come when archaeologists of the future will be able to “raise” it to the surface.

Today only one column remains from the Temple of Artemis. And there were 127 of them, 18 meters high. The roof of the Temple rested on them, under which countless treasures were stored - rich people gave their valuables to the Temple of Artemis, trusting the goddess like a Swiss bank. But one day the Temple was robbed, and it happened on the birthday of Alexander the Great. Subsequently, the priests of the Temple explained to the people who had lost their wealth that Artemis that day went to take birth with the mother of the Great Alexander. The robbers took advantage of this - in the absence of the goddess, they grew bolder and freely climbed into the treasury. This legend lived for many, many years, so that Alexander the Great felt guilty all his life before the inhabitants of Ephesus for that robbery. And he did his best to support them financially during the years of his reign. But even the Great Alexander could not imagine WHAT would destroy the Temple of Artemis - human stupidity and vanity, the desire to become famous for centuries in any way! There lived a man in Ephesus who really wanted to be remembered for a long, long time. He was not endowed with any special talents, did not shine with his mind and did not create anything that could eventually become a great value. Then he decided: “Since I cannot create anything, then I will destroy what has been created! And people will remember it all their lives, regretting the loss.” This man's name was Herostratus. And we remember this name today only because he burned down the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus. This happened 200 years after the opening of the Temple in 550 BC. The temple was badly damaged by fire, and Alexander the Great ordered to restore it at all costs. And the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus was rebuilt! It stood for over five centuries and was finally destroyed by order of Emperor Theodosius I, like a pagan temple, and a strong earthquake that happened a little later turned the remains of the once magnificent building into ruins.

In the background, behind the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, a large building of another temple is clearly visible, erected in the 1st century by the Roman emperor Justinian over the tomb of St. At the foot of Mount Bulbul, not far from the ruins of Ephesus, at an altitude of 400 meters above sea level, is the House of Mary, where she lived in recent years. The house was in the shape of a cross. The L-shaped part of the house has been preserved, in which today a small church is located, as they say, right in the part where the room of St. Mary was. Around the house is a beautiful and well-groomed park. There is a holy spring in it, the waters of which heal the ailments of believers, there is a wall of fulfillment of desires, near which they tie a ribbon with a knot and ask the Mother of God for help.

Believers of all faiths come to the House of Mary - Christians, Catholics, and Muslims. It's true Holy place, being in which you feel the presence of the Holy Spirit and unity with God. Saint John lived for 107 years, preaching the teachings of Christ. And he died of his own free will, convincing the disciples to bury him alive. But they could not stand it, and, tormented by repentance, dug up the grave two days later. The grave was empty. Traces of Christianity are present throughout modern Turkey. The respectful attitude of Muslims of the now secular state to the shrines of another religion, once persecuted and persecuted, has made it possible to preserve many architectural monuments, priceless frescoes depicting the face of Christ, biblical scenes, and the very memory of the names dear to every Christian. And Ephesus is one of those places. The very fact that Mary herself stepped on the marble slabs of the city streets of Ephesus causes spiritual awe. When alone, when accompanied by John, who, on the instructions of Jesus, became her adopted son, she, like any woman who lived at that time, walked around the city on her own business - to buy something for the household, talk to someone or listen to what they say.

Climate. The weather conditions in the region do not differ from the rest of the Aegean coast. In winter, it is warm and humid here, and the thermometer rarely drops below +10 degrees. In summer, the air temperature regularly exceeds +30, so to visit the ancient ruins, it is better to choose early morning or evening.

How to get there. Transport. The nearest international airport to Ephesus is in Izmir, at a distance of 80 km. From there, the most convenient option for transportation is the bus and the railway. A more romantic way is to take a ferry to the port of Kusadasi, and from there by bus to Selçuk. Further, 3 km on foot or by taxi.

The temple of Hadrian, which has survived to this day, was built in 138 AD. The temple in the Corinthian style was built in honor of the emperor Hadrian, whose statue is unfortunately lost, like the statues of other emperors placed in the temple. On the other side, the so-called “Houses on the Hillside”, or “Houses of the Rich” adjoin the Temple. Each of the houses in this part of Ephesus serves as a terrace for the next house. Frescoes and reliefs were found in the rooms of many houses, representing either the owners of the houses or scenes from famous plays.

While walking around Ephesus, you will surely be shown a brothel, whose ruins still cause fierce disputes between scientists and local guides. Both of them have a lot of evidence that their theory is true (scientists consider these ruins to be an ordinary house, while guides accept it only as a public one), including images of an erotic nature, and small rooms of the house, and even underground passage from the library, designed to deceive suspicious wives.

Ephesus is one of the few cities where tourists can admire the ancient street of the city, which has hardly changed for 20 centuries. Kuretov Street stretches from the library to the agora, and pleases tourists not only with a paved marble road, but also with picturesque ruins and pedestals on both sides of it. Unfortunately, the statues that used to decorate the street are now in the museum, so you won’t be able to admire them in their original form. However, Kuretov Street is impressive even without them and conveys the spirit of antiquity.

Prytania is the place where Roman officials and chancellery worked, as well as important banquets and meetings were held. The ruins of this important building are still visible in Ephesus, as are the temple of Hestia, where a fire was once constantly burning.

This ancient architectural monument dates back to the 5th century BC. It is a popular place among tourists - after all, its ruins have survived to this day. The temple dedicated to Artemis is included in the list of 7 wonders of the world.

The construction of the temple was financed by King Croesus of Lydia, and Hersiphron and his son Metagenes were the architects of the building. The temple was a building with a width of 51 meters, a length of 105 meters and a height of its columns - up to 18 meters. In total, the temple was decorated with 127 columns. A statue of Artemis, made of ivory and gold, was installed in the new temple. Also inside the temple there were many paintings, statues, reliefs.

To date, only one column, restored from the wreckage, has remained from the majestic temple.

Coordinates: 37.94944400,27.36361100

Clock tower

anniversary of Abdulhamid II on the throne. The clock itself was donated by the German emperor Wilhelm II (reigned 1888 - 1918). The entire design of the tower is designed in the style of the Ottoman Empire. There are four fountains at the base of the tower.

From 1983 to 1989, Turkish 500 lira banknotes depicted the Clock Tower surrounded by palm trees.

It seems that in Izmir everyone is guided precisely by the Clock Tower ... And everyone only meets near it. The romantic and mysterious building of the Tower stands in the center of Konak Square. Nearby is the Konak Camii Mosque. The square is always full of pigeons, and people resting on the benches can feed them directly from their hands. Numerous tourists have the opportunity to take unique photos here. The Clock Tower looks especially fabulous at night, when it is illuminated by multi-colored lights of lanterns.

Coordinates: 38.41886400,27.12863400

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Library of Celsus

The Library of Celsus was built in the period 114-135 in honor of Tiberius Julius Celsus, the Roman proconsul, who had a versatile education and a rich outlook. The library of Celsus is the second largest after the Alexandria and represents the pinnacle of Hellenistic architectural thought.

The library burned down in the III century during the attack of the Goths, having existed for about a hundred years. Only the facade of the building, vaguely reminiscent of theatrical scenery, has survived to this day. The facade is 21 meters long and 16 meters high. The lower tier of the facade is decorated with sculptures “Virtue”, “Knowledge”, “Wisdom”, “Thoughts”. On the left side of the facade are the statues of the slaves Mazeus and Mithridates, the architects of this magnificent library, who received their freedom from the hands of Emperor Augustus after the construction of the library.

Coordinates: 37.93979800,27.34071600

Mount Sipil, or Sipuli-dag, is a spur of the mountain range mentioned by Homer. The mountain is known for its complex rock relief, reminiscent of the image of Niobe, who gave birth to her son Sipylus. Sipylus, like the other sons of Niobe, was killed by the arrows of Apollo. Niobe, mad with grief, turned into stone - this is how the legend tells.

Mount Sipuli-dag was broken by a powerful earthquake into separate parts-cliffs. Also, the earthquake destroyed the ancient capital of Meonia (Lydia), a gold-rich country - Tantalis, located on the slopes of the mountain.

The fissures and fissures of Mount Sipylus indicate that volcanic activity the mountains still haven't stopped. But today the mountain range is calm and safe, and is popular with tourists.

Coordinates: 38.56903900,27.45464800

Wall of desires at the house of the Virgin Mary

The house of the Virgin Mary is located on the Nightingale Mountain (Bulbul Daga) at an altitude of 358 meters above sea level. Near her house there is a monument to her, as well as the Wall of Desires.

It is known that the Mother of God spent the last years of her life here, in Ephesus. Also in this place, the apostle John wrote his Gospel.

Numerous pilgrims visit this holy place, light candles, collect holy water from springs and, of course, leave their cherished desire on the wall.

The wall is an unusual building, which is completely covered with scraps of fabrics, sheets of paper, napkins and other materials on which believers write their desires. Once a week, wishes left behind are burned and the ashes are scattered to the wind.

It is believed that wishes made must come true.

Coordinates: 37.91874300,27.33123800

Kadifekale Castle

Kadifekale Castle is located on the hill of the ancient Turkish city of Izmir, the pearl of the Aegean region, and is one of the brightest ancient architectural monuments. Translated from Turkish, "Cadificale" means "velvet castle".

Kadifekale was built in the 4th century BC by the general of Alexander the Great, Lysimachus. The area of ​​the castle is 6 square kilometers, the most high point previously reached 35 meters. To date, five towers of the fortress and its southern wall have been preserved. The rest of the buildings were reconstructed.

Kadifekale Castle is located about two kilometers from coastline seas. The hill on which it is built consists of six blocks, which were essentially slums. But in 2007, the administration of the city of Izmir decided to reconstruct all the buildings on the hill.

Today, Kadifekale Castle, built during the reign of Alexander the Great, is ready to receive in its ruined walls everyone who wants to “talk” with history. Rising above Izmir, it is an excellent observation platform, from where a beautiful panorama of the Izmir Bay opens.

Coordinates: 38.41361800,27.14645200

The ancient city of Clazomena

The ruins of the ancient Greek city of Clazomene, founded in the X century BC. e., are located near resort town Izmir in Turkey modern city Urla and its surrounding areas. The name Clazomena is translated from ancient Greek as "the people port city". Previously, the city was located on the mainland, but in the fifth century, after the war with the Persians, it was moved to the island. Constant excavations are being carried out in Urla, which reveal more and more new facts about Klazomen. At the bottom of the bay you can see the foundation of a small ancient theater.

South of the port of Urla, the Institute of Archeology of Greece discovered an ancient necropolis with 40 painted terracotta sarcophagi-burials. Archaeologists of the Institute also discovered many depressions and wells. It turned out that these are ancient cisterns for the manufacture of olive oil. For their manufacture, oak bark was used, which does not affect either the taste or smell of the product. Excavations have shown that the Clazomenes are the most ancient center olive oil production in the ancient world.

Klazomeny is becoming more and more popular with tourists as a place where you can touch ancient history, to ancient buildings and to objects used by local residents in the distant 10th century BC.

Coordinates: 38.36524800,26.75831800

Konak Square

Konak Square is the liveliest part ancient city Izmir. On the square are the central bus station, the Konak mosque and the city hall building. The centerpiece of the square is famous Tower with a clock, which is a symbol of the city of Izmir. The square is also the entry point to the large Kemeralti market. On the southern side of the square is Cultural Center Ege University, which invites visitors to the museum contemporary art, opera house and music academy.

Despite the fact that the square is always crowded, it is very beautiful part cities. She is next to Aegean Sea, and a light sea breeze pleases people in the square with its coolness. To approach the sea water, you need to go through a busy green alley and pedestrian bridge next to which there is a beautiful fountain.

There are always a lot of pigeons on Konak Square, which you can feed directly from your palms. nice park and many small cozy cafes are waiting for their guests. Konak Square is a great place for walking and shopping. For tourists near the square, a few steps from the sea, a comfortable hotel "Konak" was built.

Coordinates: 38.41881300,27.12842000

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