The second name of Mount Elbrus. Elbrus - a mountain in the Greater Caucasus

One of the main attractions of the Elbrus region is Mount Elbrus - the highest peak in Russia and Europe, located north of the Bolshoy Caucasian ridge on the border of two republics: Karachay-Cherkess and Kabardino-Balkaria.

Elbrus is a two-peak extinct volcano. The height of the western peak is 5642 m above sea level, the eastern peak is 5621 m. They are separated by a saddle - 5300 m. The peaks are located at a distance of about 3 thousand m from each other. The main composition of the rocks is granites, gneisses, diabases and tuffs of volcanic origin.

Elbrus with two crater peaks was formed a million years ago during the creation of the Caucasus Range. Huge streams of ash mud rushed along the slopes of Elbrus, which swept away all the stones and vegetation in front of them. Layers of lava, ash, stones, layered on top of each other, thereby expanding the slopes of the volcano and increasing its height.

The scientific study of Mount Elbrus began in the 19th century. Russian researchers. The first to determine the exact location and height of the mountain in 1913 was Academician V. Vishnevsky. In 1829, Mount Elbrus was visited by the first Russian scientific expedition, which included the famous Russian academician E. Lenz, the Pyatigorsk architect Bernardazzi, the botanist E. Meyer, and others. The expedition was accompanied by General G. Emmanuel, head of the Caucasian line. The first successful ascent to the western peak was made by a group of English climbers in 1874, led by F. Grove, A. Sottaev was its participant.

In 2008, Elbrus was recognized as one of the "7 Wonders of Russia". Today, Elbrus is the largest ski mountain in the world, as well as the most promising place for national and international competitions. Basically, the infrastructure is well developed on the southern slopes of Mount Elbrus, where there is a chairlift and a pendulum cable car leading to a parking lot called "Barrel" (at an altitude of 3750 m), which consists of 12 insulated six-seater residential trailers with a kitchen.

I don’t know how to characterize it more correctly - sclerosis or deja vu? I remember exactly what I wrote about this. But today I spent the whole morning shoveling through my computer archive (it must be said, a large and confusing one) and found nothing. I tried to find it on the Internet - also to no avail. Maybe it was in the letters that I accidentally deleted during the next cleaning of the computer? Or maybe he didn’t write anything, but only wanted to write, saying this topic to himself many times?

Early in the morning (!), making a plan for the next "cleansing" of the accumulated photos, I came across a record of a flight trip to Terskol, and there the phrase "which mountain is the highest in Europe?" The traditional question about knowledge of geography for those who come to Terskol... I wrote about it, but not where? I didn’t find it, I began to look for info on the Internet - I finally got confused.

In short, you need to clearly record what I remember and add what I found today.

What is the highest mountain in Europe?

Answer: unknown! Some sources say - Elbrus in the Caucasus, others - Mont Blanc (Alps).

With the heights of the vertices, there is a fairly clear definition.

Elbrus- 5642 m (Western summit) and 5621 (Eastern). Although some sources hold other values ​​(for example, 5633 - it looks like the arithmetic mean of two peaks). The mountain is located in Russia. On the edge of the short Side Range, a few kilometers north of the Main Caucasian Range. It is undeniably the highest peak in the Caucasus and Russia.

Mont Blanc.There are discrepancies here. The Russian Wikipedia says - 4808 m.
In the English WikiPedia - 4010, it is specified that these are the data of the latest measurements made in 2002. Before that, it was believed that its height was 4807 m (I remember this value from childhood). The summit is in France, the border between France and Italy runs along mountain range Mont Blanc is a little south of the summit.

Regarding the "most", here's what it says:
Wikipedia:
Mt. Elbrus (west) stands at 5,642 meters (18,510 ft) and it is the highest mountain in Europe. Mont Blanc or Monte Bianco (French and Italian- "White Mountain") is the highest mountain in the Alps and in Western Europe.

Three additional boundary lines on the map show alternative, mostly non-geographic, boundary definitions:
Line A - runs along the peaks of the Ural Mountains and, further, along the Ural River
Line B - runs along Kuma-Manych depression and further along the Sea of ​​Azov
Line C - follows the watershed of the Caucasus Mountains

Note! Wikipedia believes that almost the entire Caucasus belongs to Europe (the border along the Araks).

So, what happens: there is no unequivocal answer to the question "is Elbrus in Europe or in Asia"? Those. everyone can choose the one that he likes, referring to an authoritative source suitable for the occasion.

But it should be noted here: all sources admit that there is no scientific justification for this or that version of the border between Asia and Europe based on geological or geographical concepts (climate, tectonics, etc.). From this point of view, it is necessary to talk about a single continent of Eurasia.

By the way, here it is necessary to recall the difference between the concepts of "mainland" and "part of the world." The division into continents is made on the basis of separation by water space from other continents, and parts of the world are rather a historical and cultural concept. So that, with From this point of view, the North Caucasus (and perhaps the entire Caucasus) is more likely to belong to Europe.

OK. Geographical boundary is a controversial concept. But the height marks are quite measurable values.

As we noted above, there is no particular discrepancy regarding the heights of the peaks. But for some other points of Elbrus there are.

How high is Shelter 11? I always thought - at an altitude of 4200 m (Wikipedia also says). But in some Internet publications I found - 4100 (perhaps these are typos).

But about the Pastukhov rocks - complete confusion. I have always believed (according to various sources) that their height is 4810 m. This was fundamental: it was believed that going up to the rocks could be equated with climbing Mont Blanc (although conquering Mont Blanc is an order of magnitude more difficult).

Wikipedia (and a number of other sources) says otherwise - 4700 m (and in some places I found even lower - 4600 m.)

It is also written there that the Saddle of Elbrus is located at an altitude of 5200, although I remember the figure of 5300 m.

That, perhaps, is all.

This one shows 4 photos: Elbrus from the side of Cheget (this is my picture) and from Kislovodstvo (below), as well as Mont Blanc - a view from France (above) and from Italy.

Elbrus is a mountain in the Caucasus, on the border of the republics of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia, located north of the Main Caucasian Range and is the highest peak in Russia and Europe.

Other names of Elbrus: Mingi-Tau - the eternal mountain (Karachay-Balkar). Oshkhamakho - mountain of happiness (Adyghe). Jin-padishah - the king of mountain spirits (Turkic). Albar (Albors) - high; high mountain(Iranian). Yal-Buz - mane of snow (Georgian). Uryushglumos - mountain of the day. Piece-maf - a mountain that brings happiness. Shat, Shat-mountain - "covered with snow" (Russian). Ash-gamakho - "sacred height" (Circassian). Uro-hokh - "white mountain" (Ossetian). Styr-hokh - "big, high mountain" (Ossetian).
Elbrus is a two-peak cone extinct volcano. The western peak has a height of 5642 m, the Eastern one - 5621 m. They are separated by a saddle - 5200 m and are separated from each other by about 3 km. total area Elbrus glaciers 134.5 km2; the most famous of them: Big and Small Azau, Terskol. According to the climbing classification, Elbrus is rated as 2A snow-ice, the passage of both peaks - 2B.

On the slopes of Elbrus there is a pendulum and chairlift leading to a height of 3750 meters, where the Barrels shelter is located, which consists of twelve six-seater insulated residential trailers and a kitchen. Currently, this is the main starting point for those climbing to the top of the mountain. At an altitude of 4100 m, the highest mountain hotel "Priyut 11" is located, which burned down at the end of the 20th century, on the basis of the boiler room of which in given time a new building was rebuilt, also actively used by climbers.

Eastern summit of Elbrus from Shelter of Eleven (route 2A).

From the village of Terskol, ascent along the road on the left bank of the Terskol River. The road almost immediately passes to the left side of the South-Eastern spur of the Elbrus massif in the Azau gorge and gradually rises to the “95th picket”, then to the “105th picket” and further to the Ice base. The serpentines of the road in many places, starting from the transformer box near the village of Terskol, can be bypassed along the trails. From the village of Terskol 5 - 6 hours.

From the Ice base from the moraine descent to the glacier, then a steep ascent. Then go up the gentle snowy slope, gradually taking to the left, moving in a wide snowy hollow to a place where the steepness of the slope increases sharply (up to 30 - 35 °). Here, turn left and, having climbed a traverse to a snowy take-off, after 300 - 350 m go to a rocky ridge on which the Shelter of Eleven is located (to the left along the ascent path there are cracks). From the Ice base 1.5 - 2 hours. In summer, the path from the Ice Base to the Shelter of Eleven is usually marked with wooden stakes every 40-60 m.

At the Shelter of Eleven, it is advisable to spend a day of active acclimatization with access to the Pastukhov rocks.

From Shelter Eleven (exit at 1 am) climb straight up to the left of a heavily snow-covered rocky ridge, towards the Eastern peak, to the left side of small rocky outcrops called Pastukhov rocks. From the Pastukhov rocks 300 - 400-meter ascent straight up, then, gradually turning to the left, go to the traverse of the slope and traverse to the saddles under the slopes of the Eastern Peak. From the Shelter of Eleven to the saddle 5-6 hours.
On the left, under the slopes of the Western peak, at the beginning of a huge snow trough leading to the saddle, there is a hut. 250 - 300 m above the hut, turn off the saddle to the right and climb the shoulder rocks along the snowy slope with simple rock outcrops. From the shoulder along a wide horizontal plateau, access to the tour on the Eastern peak of the Elbrus massif - 5621 m. From the saddle 1 - 1.5 hours. Descent along the path of ascent to the Shelter of Eleven 3.5 - 4 hours. From the Shelter of Eleven to the village of Terskol 3 - 3.5 hours. The duration of the route is 3-4 days.

Western peak of Elbrus from Shelter of Eleven (route 2B).

The path from the village of Terskol from the saddle of Elbrus is described above.
80 - 100 m above the hut to the saddle, turn left and climb up and to the right along the steep snow-ice slope, crossing the slope, to the rocks of the shoulder of the Western peak. From the shoulder along a wide plateau and simple snow-covered rocks, access to the Western peak of the Elbrus massif - 5633 m. From the saddle 1.5 - 2 hours.
Descent along the path of ascent to the Shelter of Eleven 3.5 - 4 hours. From the Shelter of Eleven to the village of Terskol 3 - 3.5 hours. The duration of the route is 3-4 days.

The western peak of Elbrus through the Western Shoulder (route 2B).

From the village of Terskol, climb first along the road, then along the path on the right side of the Azau gorge and after 4 hours exit to the starting bivouac to Stary Krugozor, located on the southernmost (Southeast) spur of the Elbrus massif. From Krugozor (exit at 2 - 3 am) turn left and along the moraine, and then go along the Small Azau glacier to a snowy plateau. On the plateau (closed cracks!), then go along a small gentle snowy slope to a rocky ridge to the right (to the north) of the Hotyutau pass and the Bezymyanny glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From Staryi Krugozor 4 – 4.5 hours.

Here, turn right and go along the simple rocks of the ridge to a rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the transitional glacier. Cross this ridge by a traverse and along simple, in some places of medium difficulty, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge rising towards the Western Shoulder, go to the snowy ridge. On a sharp (cornices!), then a wide snowy ridge, climb the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. In a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder is a bivouac. From the Hotyutau pass 3-5 hours.

From the saddle ascent to the North-East along the snow fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse to the left around the Western peak of Elbrus and exit under the North-Western rocky ridge of the Western peak. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow along the rocks, a steep ascent to the Western peak of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder 5 - 6 hours.

Descent along the path of the ascent or through the saddle and the Shelter of Eleven. The duration of the route is 4 days.

First ascent of Elbrus

Elbrus was first mentioned in the "Book of Victories" by the Persian historian Sherif ad-Din Yazdi, who writes that the Central Asian conqueror Timur (Tamerlane) allegedly climbed Elbrus during successful military campaigns in Transcaucasia to pray. These and other data on the conquest of the giant of the Caucasus are available in the writings of some travelers, but they do not have solid historical evidence.

More reliable data about Elbrus are found in the reports of Russian ambassadors and scientists of the 18th century, when ties between Russia and Georgia began to develop.

The official date of the conquest of Elbrus is 1829, when an expedition was organized, led by the head of the Caucasian fortified line, General G. A. Emanuel. Since the expedition was of a scientific nature, the best forces of the Russian Academy of Sciences, headed by Academician Adolf Kupfer, a geophysicist, geologist, founder of the Main Physical Observatory in St. Petersburg, were involved in it. The expedition included the physicist Emilius Lenz, the zoologist Eduard Minetrier, the founder of the Russian Entomological Society, botanical research was entrusted to Karl Meyer, who later became an academician and director botanical garden Russian Academy of Sciences. The architect Joseph Bernardazzi was invited as an artist. In addition, the expedition was attended by the Hungarian scientist Janos Besse, who shortly before that interesting trips across a number of countries. Later, in 1838, based on the results of his travels, he published the book “Journey through the Crimea, the Caucasus, Georgia, Armenia, Asia Minor and Constantinople”, which still retains its cognitive and scientific value. The auxiliary service of Emanuel's expedition consisted of 650 soldiers and 350 Cossacks of the line.

The first part of the route from the Constantinogorsk fortress (present-day Pyatigorsk) to the fortification "Stone Bridge" (on Malka) passed without complications. On July 8, 1829, the travelers arrived at the Harbas River (a tributary of the Malka). From here they climbed to a height of about 2600m and camped near one of the mineral springs on the banks of the Kyzylsu River.

Before the start of the ascent, Emanuel gathered the Cossacks, Kabardians and Balkars who accompanied the expedition, and announced to them that whoever reaches the top of Elbrus will be awarded an award.
After a short rest and equipment check, the assault on Elbrus began, in which Kupfer, Lenz, Meyer, Minetrie, Bernardazzi and 20 Cossacks took part.
In his travel diary, Kupfer wrote about the beginning of the route:
“Although the valley behind us was obscured by fog, the weather was fine. The moon had reached the middle of the firmament, and the bright brilliance of its disk was a pleasant contrast to the blue of the sky, which was the color of indigo. The fog spread like a veil at our feet, but soon the rays of the sun tore it apart. The valley opened up to our blinded eyes, and a panorama of mountains unfolded before us, forming the first chain of the Caucasus ... "

Insignificant mountain climbing experience, poor quality of climbing equipment, low caloric content of food products made themselves felt. Elbrus was conquered at the cost of great effort. Further in Kupfer's diary we read:
“We moved either in a straight line, or in zigzags, despite the difficulties of the path. The haste with which we strove to reach the summit before the snow was softened by the sun exhausted our strength, and we finally had to stop to rest at almost every step. The rarefaction of the air is such that breathing is not able to restore lost strength. The blood is very worried. My lips burned, my eyes suffered from the dazzling brilliance of the sun, although, on the advice of the mountaineers, I blackened the face near the eyes with gunpowder. All my senses were dulled, my head was spinning. Finally, we decided to rest under a huge rock of black trachyte.”

Many participants showed signs of altitude sickness: nausea, dizziness, apathy, and therefore, after a short rest from a height of 4270m, they decided to go down.

Four people went to storm the summit: Emily Lents, Cossack Lysenkov and two people from the group of guides - Killar Khashirov and Akhiya Sottaev. From a height of 5350m, due to lack of strength, Lenz and the guides accompanying him were forced to descend. Climbing alone continued Killar Khashirov.

The expedition diary says this:
“The descent was very difficult and dangerous. The snow fell, holes formed under their feet, which made it possible to see the sinking abyss. Cossacks and highlanders tied themselves in pairs with ropes. During this wonderful day, Emanuel watched our movement with an excellent spotting scope. He noticed one man who was ahead of everyone and came out on a ridge of rocks that form the very top. Emanuel could no longer doubt that one of us had reached the summit."

The brave Kabardian Killar Khashirov at 11 am on July 10, 1829 was the first to set foot on the top of Elbrus, strengthened a pole on it, overlaid it with stones and, after a short rest, began to descend.
"When Killar reached the top, in honor of the conquest of Elbrus, a gun salute was given in the camp."
Giving an assessment of the actions of Killar Khashirov in the last hours of the assault and conquest of Elbrus, Kupfer noted that, being an experienced hunter, Killar skillfully used the morning cold, and when Lenz was at the place of his last stop, the conqueror of Elbrus was already returning from the newly conquered peak. And to the main base camp, where General Emanuel was, Killar arrived before the other participants.
In a solemn atmosphere, the ceremony of honoring the conqueror of Elbrus took place.

By order of the Academy of Sciences, two plates were made with the following text in Russian and Arabic:
“... He camped here from July 8 to July 11, 1829, the Commander of the Caucasian Line, General of the Cavalry Georgy Emanuel, with him were his son Georgy, 14 years old, sent by the Russian government Academicians: Kupfer, Lenz, Minetrie, Meyer, also an Official of the Mountain Corps Vansovich, Mineralnye Vody Architect Jos. Bernardazzi and the Hungarian traveler Yves. Besse.

Academicians and Bernardazzi, leaving the camp located 8000 feet (i.e. 1143 fathoms) above the sea surface, ascended Elbrus on the 10th to 15,700 feet (2243 fathoms), the top of which 16330 feet (2333 fathoms) was reached only by the Kabardian Hillar .

Let this humble stone pass on to posterity the names of those who were the first to pave the way to reaching Elbrus, which is still considered impregnable!”

The texts were originally carved in stone, then cast in iron. The plates were supposed to be installed at the site of the main camp of the expedition at the foot of Elbrus. However, they were delivered to Pyatigorsk and for more than 80 years they were at the entrance to an artificial cave, which General Emanuel built in his time as a sign of the conquest of Elbrus. Then they were transferred to one of the museums in Tbilisi. In Pyatigorsk, at the Podkumok foundry, copies of the plates about the immortal first ascent of Elbrus were cast by a resident of the village of Kuchmazukino (now the village old fortress, Baksansky district, Kabardino-Balkarian Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic) Killar Khashirova.

In 1932 (that is, 103 years later), during a ski trip, the famous Soviet climbers V. Nikitin and V. Korzun discovered an inscription overgrown with moss on one of the rocks in the Irakhiksyrt tract and, having cleaned it, they were able to read the barely noticeable words: “1829 with July 8 to 11 camp under the command of the general of the cavalry Emanuel.

The news of the first ascent of Elbrus spread throughout many countries. However, no further measures were taken to develop mountaineering in Russia. At the same time from foreign states several well-equipped expeditions arrive, which, as a rule, did not dare to storm Elbrus. And the few climbing attempts that were made ended in vain.

Elbrus chronicle

1813 Russian academician Vishnevsky for the first time determined the height of Elbrus (5421 m).
1829 The first to climb Elbrus is a Kabardian, a resident of the Baksan Gorge, Killar Khashirov, the guide of the expedition of General G. A. Emanuel.
1868 The conquest of the eastern peak of Elbrus by an English expedition led by Douglas Freshfield with a Balkar guide Ahiya Sottaev.
1874 Climbing Elbrus by British climbers led by F. Grove, author of the book "Cold Caucasus".
1875 Publication of the book "Geological research of the Main Caucasian Range" (with a map of Elbrus).
1884 Climbing Elbrus is made by a group of Hungarian climbers led by Moritz Deshi in 1889. The first completed traverse passed by Ungern-Sternberg from the western peak through the saddle to the north to the Malka valley.
1890-1896 A. V. Pastukhov - Russian military topographer and climber - conquers the western and eastern summit, initiating the study of Elbrus.
1891 Gottorrid Merzbacher and Ludwig Purtcheller with two guides conquered the western summit of Elbrus, covering the entire path from Terskol to the summit in the shortest time since the beginning of the development of Elbrus - 8 hours.
1907 Geologist V.V. Dubyansky began scientific geological research on Elbrus and in the Elbrus region.
1909 At an altitude of 3200m, the Caucasian Mountain Society built the first semi-dugout for five people. It was the first pre-revolutionary building on Elbrus.
1910 Swiss climbers Gugi and De-Rami conquer both peaks of Elbrus in one day.
1911 For the first time Elbrus was visited by 10 climbing groups, of which 4 were foreign.
1911 Climbing Elbrus by S. M. Kirov..
1914 The publication of the classic work on the geology of Elbrus "On the petrography of Elbrus". Author V. V. Dubyansky.
1925 Observations of the Elbrus glaciers began.
1925 The first Soviet ascent of Elbrus by 19 climbers led by G. N. Nikoladze.
1925 The first Soviet woman on Elbrus was A. Japaridze.
1927 The first ascent of N. V. Krylenko to Elbrus.

1928 During the year, 32 groups of Soviet climbers climbed Elbrus, while in previous years - from 1829 to 1927 - 56 groups visited there.
1928 The government commission examined mineral springs Elbrus region 1929. A wooden building for 40 people was built at Krugozor with funds from the Society for Proletarian Tourism and Excursions.
1931 Under the leadership of Professor V. A. Konopasevich, the first circular ski trip around the eastern peak of Elbrus was completed. Five participants from the saddle climbed to the top.
1932 At an altitude of 4200 m, a wooden building for 40 places for tourists and climbers was built - "Shelter of Eleven".
1932-1933 V. Korzun, V. Nikitin and S. Lysenko conduct winter meteorological observations at Krugozor.
1933 10 Moscow skiers for the first time skied up to the Shelter of Eleven, the descent was also carried out on skis.
1933 On the saddle of Elbrus, at an altitude of about 5300m, a high-altitude shelter "Saddle" was built for climbers.
1933 The planned training of mountaineering personnel in Tegenekli has begun.
1933 A meteorological station began to function at the "Shelter of the Nine", built by the Pyatigorsk Weather Bureau. Its first winterers were V. Korzun, A. Gusev, A. Gorbachev.

1934 V. Korzun and A. Gusev made the first winter ascent.
1934 The work of the First Integrated Elbrus Expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences began.
1935 For the first time in one winter, N. Gusak and V. Kudinov climbed both peaks of Elbrus twice.
1935 The first winter ascent of Elbrus was made by students of the Ordzhonikidze Pedagogical Institute A. Arakelyan, A. Poltoratneva, M. Sveshnikova, Z. Rodkina, E. Chikhradze.
1935 A record of mass visits to Elbrus was set, 2016 climbers visited the summit in a year. Among them are 638 participants in the collective farm alpiniad of Kabardino-Balkaria in 1937. The first circular ski trip around the Elbrus massif was held at an altitude of 3000-4000 m.
1939 The first descent on skis from the top of Elbrus to the "Shelter of Eleven" was made by the Moscow slalomist V. Gippenreiter.
1939 A three-story hotel at the Shelter of Eleven began to operate.
1943 On February 13 and 17, a group of military climbers, participants in the defense of the Caucasus, climbed Elbrus and, dropping fascist standards, raised the State Flag of the USSR.
1946 In honor of the 25th anniversary of Kabardino-Balkaria, 40 athletes made the first post-war ascent of Elbrus.
1947 A. Maleinov, V. Gippenreiter, K. Spiridonov made a ski traverse of both peaks of Elbrus.

1950 The ARMS auto weather station is installed on the eastern peak.
1957-1958 On the slopes of Elbrus, great scientific work is being carried out under the program of the International Geophysical Year.
1960 year. 1395 athletes participated in the mass mountain climbing on Elbrus in honor of the 40th anniversary of Kabardino-Balkaria.
1963 The first chairlift in the Elbrus region to Mount Cheget was put into operation. Its length is 1600 m, elevation difference is 650 m.
1963 Master of Sports A. Berberashvili climbed Elbrus on a motorcycle.
1965 The high-mountain hotel "Itkol" has opened in the Elbrus region.

1966 The Mi-4 helicopter landed for the first time on the eastern peak of Elbrus (pilots Yu. Rakhmanov and M.Kh asanshin).
1966 The construction of the second stage of the chairlift on Mount Cheget - "Cheget-2" has been completed.
1967 A new Elbrus attendance record has been set. During the year, 3,224 people visited its peaks, including 2,536 people climbing in honor of the 50th anniversary of the Great October Socialist Revolution in one day
1968 The tourist hotel "Azau" began to function at an altitude of 2200 m.
1968 The eight-story tourist hotel "Terskol" of the USSR Ministry of Defense was put into operation.
1969 The cable-suspension road on Mount Cheget began to operate.
1969 The first rope-pendulum road from the Azau station to the Krugozor was built. Its length is 1900 m, elevation difference is 900 m.
1972 The Elbrus Medical Biological Station (EMBS) of the USSR Academy of Sciences began to function.
1974 The camp site "Cheget" was built.
1976 The cable car from st. "Krugozor" to the station. "World".
1982 Climbing in honor of the 60th anniversary of the formation of the USSR.
1983 Elbrusiada, dedicated to the 40th anniversary of the liberation of the Caucasus from fascist invaders and the hoisting of Soviet flags on Elbrus.

Elbrus Map

Geographic Description

Name

Infrastructure

Climbing history

Elbrus(Karach.-Balk. Mingi tau) - a mountain in the Caucasus, on the border of the republics of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia. Elbrus is located north of the Main Caucasian Range and is the highest peak in Russia. Considering that the boundaries of the European part of the world are ambiguous, Elbrus is often also called the highest European mountain peak.

Geographic Description

Elbrus is a two-peak cone of the volcano. The western peak has a height of 5642 m, the Eastern one - 5621 m. They are separated by a saddle - 5200 m and are separated from each other by about 3 km. The last eruption dates back to 50 AD. e. ± 50 years.

According to the climbing classification, Elbrus is rated as 2A snow-ice, the passage of both peaks - 2B. There are others more difficult routes, for example, Elbrus (W) along the N-W rib 3A.

Name

According to one version, the name Elbrus comes from the Iranian Aitibares - "high Mountain", more likely - the Iranian "sparkling, brilliant" (like Elburs in Iran). The Georgian name Yalbuz is from the Turkic yal - "storm" and buz - "ice". The Armenian Alberis is probably a phonetic variant of the Georgian name, but the possibility of a connection with the common Indo-European base, to which the toponym "Alps" goes back, is not ruled out.

Other names:

• Mingi tau - eternal mountain (Karachay-Balkar).
• Elburus - guide of the wind (Nogai).
• Ashartau - snowy mountain of aces (Kumyk).
• Jin-padishah - the king of mountain spirits (Turkic).
• Albar (Albors) - high; high mountain (Iranian).
• Yalbuz - mane of snow (Georgian).
• Oshkhamakho - mountain of happiness (Kabardian).
• Uryushglumos - mountain of the day.
• Kuskamaf is a mountain that brings happiness.
• Shat, Shat-mountain - the old Russian name (from Karach.-Balk. chat, chat- protrusion, hollow, that is "mountain with a hollow")

Gorges

Adylsu, Shkheldy, Adyrsu gorges, Donguz-Orun and Ushba massifs are very popular among climbers and mountain tourists. Elbrus - the most popular ski resort Russia.

Glaciers

The total area of ​​Elbrus glaciers is 134.5 km²; the most famous of them: Big and Small Azau, Terskol.

Infrastructure

It is mainly concentrated on the southern slopes, where the pendulum and chairlift are located. The height of the cable car is 3750 meters, there is a shelter "Barrels", which is more than ten six-seater insulated residential trailers and a kitchen. Currently, this is the main starting point for those climbing Elbrus. At an altitude of 4000 m, the highest mountain hotel "Shelter of the Eleven" is located, which burned down at the end of the 20th century, on the basis of the boiler room of which a new building has now been rebuilt, also actively used by climbers. A number of residential 12-seater trailers and a kitchen have been installed. In the evenings, the work of a diesel generator is organized with the supply of electricity to the trailers. Pastukhov rocks are located at an altitude of 4600-4700 m. Above the Pastukhov rocks in winter there is an ice field. From a height of 5000 the so-called oblique shelf begins - a trail with a smooth climb. The standard route to the Western and Eastern peaks passes through the saddle. From the saddle, both peaks rise to a height of about 300 m.

Since 2007, work has been underway to build a rescue shelter (“Station EG 5300”) on the saddle of the mountain (height 5300 m). The shelter will be a hemisphere of a geodesic dome with a diameter of 6.7 m, installed on a gabion foundation. In 2008, a reconnaissance of the area was carried out, base camp, the design of the shelter began. In 2009, the structures of the dome were made, construction work began: the members of the expedition erected gabions, the elements of the dome were transported to the construction site (including using a helicopter). Completion of construction is planned for 2010.

On the north side, the infrastructure is poorly developed, and is represented by several huts on one of the moraines (at an altitude of about 3800 m), which are used by tourists and employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. As a rule, this point is used for climbing the Eastern peak, the path to which passes through the Lenz rocks (from 4600 to 5200 m), which serve as a good guide for all climbers.

Climbing history

In 1813, Russian academician V.K. Vishnevsky for the first time determined the height of Elbrus (5421 m).

The first successful ascent to one of the peaks of Elbrus was made in 1829 during an expedition led by General G. A. Emmanuel, head of the Caucasian fortified line. The expedition was of a scientific nature (the Elbrus expedition of the Russian Academy of Sciences was organized from Pyatigorsk, about which there is a record in Diana's grotto; see also Alpinism in pre-revolutionary Russia), its participants were: academician Adolf Kupfer - geophysicist, geologist, founder of the Main Physical Observatory in St. Petersburg , physicist Emily Lenz, zoologist Eduard Minetrie, founder of the Russian Entomological Society, botanist Karl Meyer, who later became an academician and director of the botanical garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences, artist-architect Joseph (Giuseppe-Marco) Bernardazzi, Hungarian scientist Janos Besse. The auxiliary service of Emmanuel's expedition consisted of 650 soldiers and 350 Cossacks of the line, as well as local guides.

Kupfer, Lenz, Meyer, Minetrier, Bernardazzi, 20 Cossacks and guides participated directly in the ascent. However, the lack of experience and the poor quality of climbing equipment forced most of the participants to turn back. Further ascent continued only four: Emiliy Lenz, Cossack Lysenkov and two people from the group of guides - Hilar Khachirov and Akhiya Sottaev. At an altitude of about 5300 m, due to lack of strength, Lenz and his two escorts were forced to stop. The first to climb the eastern peak at about 11 am on July 10, 1829 was the Karachay (according to other sources - Kabardian) guide Hilar Khachirov. This event was marked by a gun salute in the camp, where General Emmanuel watched the ascent through a powerful telescope.

At the location of the camp, a commemorative inscription was carved on one of the stones ( below and in Fig.), the location of which was lost over time. It was discovered by Soviet climbers already in the 20th century (accidentally, 103 years later - it was hidden under a centuries-old layer of lichens).

The first successful ascent of the western, most high peak, was made in 1874 by a group of English climbers led by F. Grove and a participant in the first ascent, a Balkar guide A. Sottaev.

The first person to climb both peaks of Elbrus is the Russian military topographer A. V. Pastukhov. In 1890, accompanied by four Cossacks of the Khopersky regiment, he climbed to its western peak, and six years later, in 1896, he conquered the eastern one. Also, Pastukhov for the first time compiled maps of the peaks of Elbrus.

In August 1974, three completely standard (without winches and traction control chains) UAZ-469 vehicles reached the glacier on Mount Elbrus at an altitude of 4000 meters during a test run.

Now Elbrus is very popular for climbing, both in mountaineering and mountain tourism.

Elbrus during the Great Patriotic War

Due to its symbolic significance as the highest point in Europe, Elbrus became the scene of a fierce confrontation during the Great Patriotic War, which was also attended by units of the German Edelweiss mountain rifle division. During the Battle for the Caucasus on August 21, 1942, after occupying the Krugozor and Shelter of Eleven mountain bases, the German Alpine riflemen managed to install German banners on the western peak of Elbrus. By the middle of the winter of 1942-1943, the Wehrmacht was driven off the slopes of Elbrus, and on February 13 and 17, 1943, Soviet climbers climbed the western and eastern peaks of Elbrus, respectively, where Soviet flags were hoisted.

They say that Prometheus was chained to one of the rocks of this particular mountain because he gave fire to people. It was here, according to Homer, that Jason went for the Golden Fleece. And there are also legends that it was Elbrus that turned out to be the first piece of Earth that Noah met after the Flood, and his ship literally hit the top and split it.

The Elbrus stratovolcano is located at some distance from the Greater Caucasus Range (20 km to the north) and is the highest point in Russia. Since there is no clearly defined border between Asia and Europe, many believe that it is the highest mountain peak of the European continent, the height of which is 5642 meters.

Elbrus formed a little differently than the rest Caucasian mountains, of which it is a part: they appeared earlier, about 5 million years ago, and have a folded character. And the volcano was formed later, about 1 million years ago, as a result of complex and lengthy geological processes: first, the western peak appeared, and then, with east side side crater, a second cone began to form. Nowadays, the volcano is not active, but it cannot be called extinct either: manifestations of volcanic activity are still observed here.

What Elbrus looks like

The nature here is diverse: mountain meadows, rare plants and animals, coniferous forests, stormy rivers leave no one indifferent, and some time ago, a national park"Prielbrusye", and therefore it is impossible to hunt, cut down forests, or engage in construction here.

At the foot of Elbrus there is a huge number of extremely beautiful gorges, and on the north side there is the famous Dzhyly-Su tract with mineral thermal springs and beautiful waterfalls from 20 to 40 meters high, among which the Sultan waterfall located in the upper reaches of the Malka River stands out.

On the slope of the mountain, at an altitude of about three hundred meters, there is a huge ice lake Jikaugenköz. In its middle part rises resembling medieval castle Kalitsky Peak, whose height exceeds 3.5 km, where there is a platform with cult sanctuaries, which were created from large stones.

The volcano itself looks like this:

• Elbrus has two peaks, each of which is two volcanoes independent of each other, connected by a saddle, the height of which is 5.3 km. The distance between the peaks is about three kilometers;
• The eastern, younger cone is somewhat lower than the western one, and its height is 5621 m. It has a clearly defined crater, 200 meters in diameter and about 80 m deep;
• The height of the western peak of the almost extinct volcano is 5642 meters, the diameter of the crater is 600 meters, the depth is 300 m, and the upper part of the volcano is partially destroyed;
• The slopes of the mountain are mostly gentle, but closer to the top, starting from the mark of 4 thousand km, the angle of inclination increases to 35 degrees;
• On the northern and western sides of Elbrus there is a huge number sheer cliffs about 700 meters high;
• Starting from a height of 3.5 km, the volcano is covered with stones and glaciers, in total there are about 70 glaciers on Elbrus, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich exceeds 130 km². The water flowing down from the Elbrus glaciers creates three main streams that feed the main rivers of this region - Baksan, Kuban and Malka;
• The surface of the volcano, free from glaciers, is covered with loose rocks;
• Snow cover on the top of Elbrus lies throughout the whole year.

On the northern slope of the mountain, at an altitude of about 3 km, there is the Birjal lava tract with a huge amount of remnants of melted sand, which, under the influence of precipitation, weathering, soil erosion, collapsed and created numerous heaps of bizarre shapes that formed grottoes and caves. They hang over each other, forming bridges, arches, consoles and, diverging in different directions, acquire different bizarre shapes.

Volcano activity

It is believed that over the entire period of its existence, the active volcano showed volcanic activity about four times, and the age of the most ancient volcanic rocks of this mountain is about three million years.

The volcano showed the greatest volcanic activity about 225 thousand years ago, then its activity gradually subsided, and the last time it erupted about two thousand years ago (according to scientists, it was about 50 AD). Despite the fact that this eruption was not recorded anywhere, lava flows of this period up to 24 km and 260 km long were found on the mountain. sq. volcanic debris, which indicates that the emissions were quite strong.

Although the volcano does not remind of itself for an extremely long time, volcanologists consider it not extinct, but dormant (active), since it demonstrates active external and internal activity - this is primarily manifested in the release of sulfuric acid and chlorine gases on the eastern slopes, as well as in the presence world famous mineral thermal springs"Hot Narzan", the temperature of which reaches +52 ° C and + 60 ° C (apparently, the magma chamber of the volcano is located at a depth of 6-7 km from the earth's surface).

Many scientists agree that the volcano is unlikely to wake up in the next two or three centuries.

Some scientists believe that Elbrus may well become more active already in this century (though not earlier than in fifty years), arguing their conclusions not only by the manifestation of fumarole activity by the volcano, but also because of the green moss colony found on the western peak of the mountain. The soil temperature in this place was +21ºС, while the temperature indicators environment showed minus temperature (-20º C).

Elbrus weather

Not everyone who starts climbing Elbrus will be able to conquer it, especially if he decides to do it in the off-season - in spring or autumn. Closer to the top, even well-trained climbers may well be stopped not only by severe cold, but also by a terrifying force, knocking down wind, gusts of which reach 100 km / h.

The most stubborn can, despite the bad weather, reach a height of 4 thousand km, but such weather will stop anyone - snow, storm and a temperature of minus thirty degrees, in these conditions it is extremely life-threatening to climb up.

Since near Elbrus warm and humid Mediterranean and Black Sea cyclones meet with cold Antarctic ones, the climate of Elbrus is extremely changeable: the summer heat quickly replaces the severe cold, and clouds can cover the whole mountain in a few minutes, hide absolutely all landmarks - and the traveler will have to rely only on his instincts .

Humid air currents coming from the Black Sea cause numerous precipitations on Elbrus, mainly in the form of snow, which can fall at high altitudes both at minus and plus temperatures. Most of the precipitation falls here in summer and winter, which is why the most favorable time for the rise is November, when a permanent dense snow cover is established, and winter.

The most dangerous period for climbing the volcano is the spring or autumn months: the weather at this time is bad and unstable, and the temperature on the peaks can drop to -50 degrees Celsius even in May. So, a few years ago, a group of twelve climbers made an attempt to climb the volcano at the end of spring. But due to a sharp deterioration in the weather and loss of visibility, the climbers got lost, and then completely froze to death - only one person could go down.

Elbrus rescue station

To avoid such situations, it was decided to create a rescue shelter on Elbrus - work began in 2007 and was completed five years later. The construction was not easy, because it was necessary to deliver materials and fastening systems to a huge height, which was done using a helicopter. The first opening of the shelter took place in 2010, but a month later a hurricane completely destroyed the building.

Given the need for such a structure, it was decided to restore the shelter, but to make it smaller and more wind-resistant - and by August 2012, the highest rescue shelter on the European continent was erected on the Elbrus saddle (5300 above sea level).