Mount Munku-Sardyk is located on the border of Russia and Mongolia and has been attracting me with its name alone for many years now. To get there, we need to drive through the border checkpoint in the village of Mondy (don’t forget about the pass!!!), turn left from the good asphalt leading to Mongolia, onto the gravel road towards the village of Orlik and drive about 23 km. And here we are almost there:

There are still 130 km to Orlik
back side sign - 22 km to the village. Mondy and 8.5 km to Mount Munku-Saridak

Let me make a reservation right away: we didn’t reach the mountain itself; we were unprepared and had a dog. Therefore, the article is called “unfinished gestalt”))) The height of Mount Munku-Sardyk, according to the signs, is 3491 meters, which is the most big top in Sayan.

I’ll show you a little road, which in itself is worth a ride along it:

The Kultuk-Mondy road is quite picturesque
In May, along the Kultuk-Mondy road, we saw unmelted snow glaciers slowly descending into the river
Bridge in front of the turnoff to the parking lot (the way to Munku-Sardyk)

People usually come here in large groups, leave their cars below, and further on the banks of the Irkut, closer to the main trails, they put up tents and go into battle around the surrounding area, wearing crampons.

We also went up the riverbed of the Irkut:

We got caught in the snow out of the blue on the road to Munku Sardyk

The weather is changeable - snow quickly gives way to spring sun. You won’t understand whether you’re cold or hot.

The ascents are long, the snow is icy crumbs, which digs painfully into the dog’s paws (we, unfortunately, didn’t think about this), it’s slippery in places, and there are deep cracks. But, God, how cool it is here!!!

Deep cracks in the ice of Irkut

But here it was slippery:

If you look closely, the photo shows base camps on the banks of Irkut

So we reached the last point where walking without crampons and a helmet was no longer safe.

And the dots in the photo are climbers who climbed a frozen waterfall (they definitely have everything in order with their equipment))).

It's time to turn back, the road down is always easier and faster:

The way back

On the way back, we collected a lot of camel thorn, thickets of which we found on the banks of Irkut. I warn you, you need to wear thick gloves when cutting, otherwise you will get hurt.

Now I’ll tell you in more detail about the nuances:

1. If you are traveling for one day (as on an excursion), without equipment, a tent, etc., then it is better to stay somewhere in, - you will be less tired from the road - you will spend more time walking. In 2010, when we came here “just to have a look,” we drove directly from Angarsk, we arrived late, we felt tired from the road, while we were walking, it began to get dark. The second time, in 2015, we left Arshan and, feeling rested, ended up enjoying the trip more.

If you are traveling overnight, it is best to take a warm sleeping bag, a tent, and don’t forget about a rug and a burner—the nights in the mountains are cold. We saw people going up to set up camp on a large number of people - pulling huge sleds with luggage, brrr...

2. Passing is an important thing. You can submit a request to receive it in advance through the State Services website and then there are no problems, everything is done quickly, correctly - the issued pass simply arrives at your post office. That's what I did in last time. Or you can download the form, fill it out at home and apply for a pass at the border - it takes longer, there may be queues - that is, you waste time, this, I think, is inconvenient.

3. People come here mainly for May holidays, For inexperienced tourists This is a plus; if something happens, you won’t be left without help.

4. If you are planning to climb, you must register with the Ministry of Emergency Situations (available in Kyren).

I don’t know if I have the courage to go up there one day, but I will definitely come here again and again!

And finally, watch the video in our group

What is the best way to climb the highest point of the Sayan Mountains? Guide from the charming climber Nina Novikova

In contact with

Classmates

Victor Martynyuk

View from Mount Munku-Sardyk. Photo: Nina Novikova

Climbers living in the European part of Russia mainly strive to get to the Caucasus, where the highest peaks of Russia are located. In the Asian part, they mainly go to conquer Altai and Mount Belukha. The mountaineering routes of the Sayan Mountains in southern Siberia are known mainly to travelers living in this region. Meanwhile, there are very interesting and exciting mountaineering routes here.

The greatest interest for travelers is perhaps the highest peak of the Sayan Mountains - Munku-Sardyk, its height is 3491 meters. Buryats, Mongols and Soyots consider this mountain sacred.

The Russian geographer Gustav Radde first climbed it in April 1858.

Today this peak can be conquered by anyone, even a novice climber.

What is the best way to climb the Eternal Char, as it is called Munku-Sardyk in translation from Buryat, she told readers of the Russian Planet Nina Novikova. She knows the Sayans well and has climbed Munku-Sardyk four times along different routes.

What is the best way to get to the place where the ascent will begin? Where to stay before and after the climb?

Climbing Munku-Sardyk begins with obtaining a pass across the border. To get to the starting point, you need to cross the border post, because... We are driving along a highway that goes directly to Mongolia.

It is advisable to submit documents 2 months before the start of the ascent, sometimes you can do it in 1 month. You need to fill out a small form and send it, along with a scan of your passport, to the Russian FSB office for the Republic of Buryatia.

Another option is to apply for a pass on the State Services website online. If you are going to climb with a guide, it is best to contact a company, they will do everything for you, you don’t need to worry about anything.

Usually they get to the starting point in their own car, leaving it on the White Irkut River.

If you plan to climb on the May holidays - these are days of mass ascents, then there will be a bus transfer on these dates. The base camp, as a rule, is located on Strelka - this is the confluence of the White Irkut and Muguvek rivers. There is nice clearing and forest.

The third camp option is to spend the night on the lake below the peak, it takes longer to get there, and there is no forest there, only snow and ice, gas instead of firewood.

Climber Nina Novikova

The best time to climb

Comfortable time is May, the beginning of May, the May holidays, you can take the end of April, the middle of May is no longer comfortable, because the river runs strongly below and there is a danger of avalanches. Autumn and summer are also very interesting times for climbing, but at this time hiking is more difficult, since there is no snow and ice, only stones and water, you have to ford or go through passes.

Guide. Where can I get it? Is it possible to do without it?
Since I am involved in mountaineering, I made my first ascents as part of mountaineering camps. And already with experience, we, a group of mountaineering friends, climbed independently.

Beginners who climb with a qualified mountaineering instructor will receive a climbing certificate.

This requires a week of vacation. You can go through other interesting and beautiful routes. There are plenty of them in this area.

The main rules for beginners when hiking in the mountains

Climbing to a height of 3491 meters is not like taking a walk in the park or running on a machine in a fitness center. In addition to experience, climbing requires physical and mental preparation. At this altitude, altitude sickness already manifests itself, we call it “mountain sickness.”

If you are planning to go to Munku-Sardyk, you should know what climbing crampons, an ice ax, a jumar, a harness, a rope, and the belay itself are, you should be able to use them, in general, be fully competent in this matter.

There were “funny” stories when a man walked with an ice ax and did not understand why he needed it. You don’t need to set a goal to climb as high as possible, you need to adequately weigh your strengths and understand when you need to turn around in time.

Avalanches, of course, happen, as everywhere in the mountains. On days of mass ascent, rescuers are on duty along the route; they report on the situation and, in case of danger, simply do not allow anyone onto the mountain.

As for emergency situations, it should be said that in recent years, on May holidays during mass ascents, the number of accidents has increased. A crowd of unprepared people on the mountain is unsafe; stones fall from under the feet of such climbers, knocking down those below. There are situations when a person falls and does not know what to do, this can lead to the most dire consequences.

Another situation is that a person simply goes blind from not wearing sunglasses, this blindness goes away, but not immediately, but such a climber still has to be evacuated.

If you listened carefully to the safety lecture, you will be able to avoid emergency situation, and if it occurs, get out of it.

Mount Munku-Sardyk. Photo: Nina Novikova

Equipment

First of all, you need to take your head with you!

Personal equipment for climbing a simple route (1B):
- helmet, crampons, ice ax, harness, lanyard, carabiners (3+1)
On a simple route, a jumar is not needed. There is a rope stretched there, everyone just clings to it with a lanyard.
This is a list of steps only based on the “hardware” for climbing.
If we take completely individual equipment, not including group equipment, then:

1. Mountaineering boots (trekking boots, if good ones) for climbing – a pair.
2. Bivouac shoes – a pair.
3. Shoes from the bridge to the switch (spare trekking or rubber boots) - a pair, optional.
4. Thin socks - more, taking into account the length of stay.
5. Woolen socks - more, taking into account the length of stay.
6. Thermal underwear is a set, can be replaced.
7. Fleece pants – 1 pc.
8. Waterproof and windproof pants – 1 pc.
9. Fleece sweatshirt - you can have two pairs, thin and thick.
10. Waterproof and windproof jacket with hood – 1 pc.
11. Down jacket with a hood – 1 pc.
12. Fleece (woolen) gloves – at least 2 pairs.
13. Windproof mittens (gaiters) – pair.
14. Fleece hat (woolen) – 2 pcs.
15. Balaclava (face mask) – if available, optional.
16. Bandana (Panama Hat) – if available, optional.
17. Gaiters - a pair.
18. Cats are a couple.
19. Helmet – 1 pc.
20. Ice ax – 1 pc.
21. Safety system – 1 pc.
22. Self-belaying cable – 1 pc.
23. Carabiners – 1 is possible, 3 is better
24. Telescopic travel sticks (folding) – pair.
25. Sunglasses – pair.
26. Sunscreen cream.
27. Headlamp – 1 pc. with spare batteries.
28. Personal hygiene items are at your discretion.
29. KLMN (mug-spoon-bowl-knife) - you can use chopsticks, of course.
30. Thermos - 1 pc.
31. Tourist backpack 80 liters or more – 1 pc.
32. Assault backpack – if available, upon request.
33. Tourist mat – 1 piece, preferably 2.
34. Popper – 1 pc., optional.
35. Very, very warm sleeping bag – 1 pc.

Climbing option first, easiest

The easiest option is to climb the North-Western slope (1B). A special cable is stretched along it, to which they cling with a lanyard. The route is not difficult, sometimes rocks fall.

Second, more complex

The more difficult one is 2A. This is an ice-snow route along the northern slope (glacier). The angle of inclination is accordingly not the same as on 1B, it is steeper. In some years, the route is on ice without a snow path, the difference is accordingly different. Rope, guy ropes, and drills are added to the basic equipment. There are no railings there, so you organize your own insurance, we go in bundles with a re-strap at the station - this is all for those who are in the know, not for beginners.

Third, difficult, for “advanced”

There are four possible ascent options:

• Along the western ridge from the saddle of the MNR lane -1B* k.s.
• Along the eastern ridge -1B* c.s.
• On the northern ice slope - class 2A.
• From the south of Lake Khubsugul, from Mongolia.

Route April 2018: Irkutsk - Mondy (A-164) - Munku-Sardyk.

The height of Munku-Sardyk is 3,491 meters above sea level, this is the most high peak Eastern Saiyans. The mountain is located on the border of Buryatia (Russia) and Mongolia.

“Friends of the hikers” invited me to go on a hike to Munku-Sardyk; the dressage date was determined in advance. Since Munku-Sardyk is located on the Russian-Mongolian border, it is necessary to take care of obtaining a pass to the border zone in advance - applications from citizens of the Russian Federation are considered up to 30 days, foreigners - up to 60 days. You can submit an application remotely either through the government services website or by email. I ordered the pass through the State Services website, with delivery to the postal address, everything took 10 days and the pass was in my hands. Here you will find all the comprehensive information on obtaining a permit https://angara.net/forum/t106692

We got from Irkutsk to the border control point in Mondy in 4 hours along a good asphalt road, it took half an hour border control, after which the barrier was opened and we drove further to the bridge at the mouth of the White Irkut, where the trail to Munku-Sardyk begins. The cars were left next to the yurt in the parking lot, then from the bridge they walked to the spit (the confluence of the White Irkut and Muguvek rivers).

When collecting information on the Internet, I read many reviews and articles about Munku-Sardyk, stories about how the ascent was very difficult mentally and physically, that the rarefied atmosphere caused severe health problems for some, how sometimes there were accidents when people lost their tempers from steep slopes, about avalanches that periodically descend from mountain slopes. They make tourists feel terrible)). The information also varied on the time required for the ascent, some took 5 days, others managed to get up and down from the bridge in a day.

At the end of the article I will give my conclusion on all controversial issues.

We walked to the arrow with backpacks for 2 hours, broke up on the spot base camp and in the morning we began climbing Munku-Sardyk.

A lot of snow fell overnight, and in the morning the snow still did not stop falling. The clouds hung very low; the top of Munku-Sardyk was not visible.

Climbing equipment is required to climb the glacier safely. I only rented crampons, I didn’t take an ice ax with me, trekking poles were enough for me. The climb up the mountain is very steep, and in some places it becomes very scary when you look down. It’s physically and mentally difficult, I was personally convinced of this by myself and those around me. On the way I met a girl who had a fear of heights, she didn’t go further than the ridge (a section of 100 meters to the top), they were scared.

From the top of Munku-Sardyk you can see the Mongolian plains and Lake Khubsugul, and Lake Baikal on the north side. Unfortunately, due to heavy cloudiness, we were not able to contemplate all this beauty. Catches at the top cellular, but you need to be careful with roaming since the mountain is located on the border of two countries - step to the right for Mongolia roaming, step to the left for the Russian operator.

Descending from a mountain is much faster than climbing up a mountain, but the descent is no less dangerous. With me, the man decided to slide down the slope on his butt without taking off his crampons. I ended up twisting my ankle badly. The time to climb Munku Sardyk and descend is different for everyone, we managed it in two days, on the way back I met a group that was returning, they managed to go to Munku and return back in one daylight with backpacks from the bridge. It all depends on time, physical and psychological preparation, but if you don’t rush, 2.3 days will be required for the hike. Separately, I would like to express my gratitude to my “hiking friends” without whom my conquest of the peak would not have taken place.

Munku-Sardyk– the highest point of the Republic of Buryatia. From the top of the mountain there is a picturesque panorama of Lake Khubsugol, located in Mongolia, of the Eastern Sayan Mountains. Munku-Sardykh is considered sacred mountain, spectacular religious ceremonies are held here. Every year the mountain attracts a large number of lovers of active and extreme recreation. The program includes training in the basics of mountaineering techniques.

In May 2015, more than 15,000 people took part in the ascent, and the number of participants is growing every year. To visit a mountain is not only to climb, but to get in high spirits and see the beauty mountain peaks and connect with nature. A wonderful holiday in the mountains leisure. We invite you together climb the highest point Eastern Sayan Mountains on May holidays!

Passport details must be provided at least 30 days before the start of the trip.. Please provide your passport details after making payment for the tour (or part of the payment) to obtain the necessary pass and registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations. You must order passes at least 30 days before the trip! For foreign citizens in 2 months. You can also apply for a pass yourself on the government services website.

Participants cook their own food one at a time along the entire route, set up tents, prepare firewood and carry all the necessary equipment.

The instructor leads along the route, but does not act as a guide. If you want to receive more information about Lake Baikal, then perhaps you should purchase sightseeing tour, since in active tour the main goal is still the safe and comfortable passage of the route from start to finish, as well as the opportunity to visit picturesque places, where excursion groups never go, to acquire certain skills that may be useful on further travels. This is what the instructor will try to provide for you, so if you have any questions about using equipment or overcoming certain obstacles on the route, contact the instructor immediately.

IMPORTANT! We inform you that the national teams include participants of different ages and physical fitness.

Program by day

Day 1

Meeting at the station in Slyudyanka at 6-00 o'clock. Departure at 6-30 o'clock. It is recommended to take tea in a thermos and sandwiches with you on the road. Arrival at the beginning of the route approximately at 12-00 o'clock. On foot crossing from the bridge over the river. Middle Irkut to the base camp location(about 2 hours). The hike will take place along the White Irkut River (waterproof shoes are required), along picturesque canyons and cliffs.

Dinner. Setting up camp and setting up tents. Instruction and training in working with special equipment. Dinner. Acquaintance. Overnight in tents, so we recommend taking a comfort sleeping bag - 20 degrees or additionally taking a down or padding blanket. Tents for 3-4 persons.

Attention! The bus will leave exactly on time, so try not to be late.

Day 2

After breakfast we get ready and go to the ice waterfall. Lessons on ice, using crampons and ice equipment. During the classes you will learn how to use crampons and an ice ax, as well as climb vertical ice obstacles.

Dinner. We go out to the lake. We have dinner as a snack. We spend the night on the lake (at an altitude of 2700m).
Overnight on the lake gives an advantage when climbing. The ascent will be more comfortable in terms of physical activity. It’s especially beautiful on the lake at sunrise! Plus, you can recuperate at the lake on the way back. Participants bring a tent (for 4 people), a sleeping bag and a rug to the lake. And some food.

For those who have climbed or just come to relax - pedestrian crossing to Obzornaya Mountain and Contrasts Pass. Overnight at base camp.
With good visibility, a panorama of the Oka Plateau and the neighboring peaks of Mount Munku-Sardyk opens from Mount Obzornaya.

Day 3

Early snack at 6-00 o'clock and We begin the ascent to Mount Munku-Sardyk(3491m). The ascent is carried out in a bundle without things. The group walks together in one moderate rhythm. Snack at the top. Photo as a keepsake against the backdrop of Lake Khubsugul, which is located on the border with Mongolia.

For those who have climbed- walk to the ice stream, activities on the icefalls. or, if possible, a walk along the Middle Irkut canyon.

Day 4

Breakfast. Descent early in the morning to the bridge. Lunch at a cafe along the way (pay for yourself). If desired, we stop by the Springs (baths are paid for independently).
Departure to Slyudyanka. Arrival around 19-00 hours. We can book accommodation in the city on our own or upon request. Completing the program

The program can be adjusted by the instructor based on weather or other rational factors (physical training of the group, disruption of transport, etc.)–without changing the volume and quality of services provided.

Tell your friends!

Price:

11,200 rubles

Duration:

4 days / 3 nights

Travel date:

• 04/30/2019 - 05/03/2019 (held)

Description of the trip

The peak of Munku-Sardyk is located on the border of the Republic of Buryatia and Mongolia. From this peak there is a stunning view of the Eastern Sayan Mountains and the famous Mongolian Lake Khubsugul. Climbing involves moving in ropes or with the help of individual safety equipment (crampons, ice axe, helmet, safety system) along a steep snow-talus slope of 35 degrees. One hundred meters before the top, the ascent is marked with special cables for individual belay. The ascent from base camp and back takes an average of 10 hours. The peak of Munku-Sardyk is very popular and accessible to people With different levels training, thanks to the well-coordinated work of the team and the professionalism of the instructors. During the May holidays, according to statistics, more than 5,000 people come to the border zone to climb this difficult peak. Accommodation is provided in the base camp at an altitude of 1,800 meters. We tried to create the most comfortable conditions for you to relax before and after the ascent. Life in the mountains can be more comfortable than you think. Our camp is equipped with warm tents with heating, capacity for 10 people, electricity, the ability to charge your electrical appliances, and use light in the tent and near the camp; we also install a field bathhouse for our tourists, with hot and cold water. There are cooks at the camp, so you won’t have to worry about being on duty, and camp assistants will provide warmth in the tents at night, and you won’t have to think about providing firewood. They leave for the preparation of the camp a week before the ascent, collecting firewood, providing light, heat, a field kitchen, and transportation by snowmobiles. Age: from 12 years (accompanied by parents). Important: pay for the hike in full and send your passport details to issue a pass before April 14th. For foreign citizens, the deadline for submitting data is two months before the start of the tour; payment is also due April 14.

Included in cost

- transfer from Irkutsk railway station and back
- accommodation in winter tents with stoves
- services of a cook, assistants and guides
- meals from dinner 1 day to breakfast 4 days
- field bathhouse (capacity 10 people)
- use of group equipment and special
- issuing passes to border area with Mongolia
- preparation of the camp and organization of its work
- registration at the rescue service
- medical support

Not included in price

- air and train tickets from and to Irkutsk
- meals at a roadside cafe 2 times
- souvenir products
- special equipment: helmet, ice axe, crampons, safety system (harness, self-belay and 2 carabiners) – 1000 rubles/entire trip
- delivery of cargo to the base camp by snowmobiles - 300 rubles

Program

Day 1.
The length of the transition is 5.3 km, the altitude gain is 300 m. Meeting in Irkutsk (train station 8:00). We recommend arriving/flying to Irkutsk in advance, the night before or at night. Meeting the guides. Transfer to the beginning of the active part of the route (360 km) – the bridge over the White Irkut River (Republic of Buryatia). During the trip we will visit observation deck, from which it opens beautiful view to the southern tip of Lake Baikal and the Khamar-Daban ridge, glorified by Vizbor. Further our path runs through the territory of Tunkinsky national park Republic of Buryatia with its picturesque steppe landscapes and Buryat settlements. Along Tunka Valley The peaks of Khamar-Daban and Eastern Sayan rise majestically. Lunch at a roadside cafe. We also pass the Mondy border post, present our pre-issued passes and drive another 30 km to the starting point. Today we have to walk 5.3 km, with an elevation gain of 300 m. On the way we will meet the canyon of the river. White Irkut with its tall walls. Our base camp is located at the confluence of the White Irkut and Muguvek rivers (1800 m). Dinner. Overnight in tents heated by stoves. The altitude of the overnight stay is 1800 m above sea level.

Day 2.
The length of the trek is 15.3 km, elevation gain is 1100 m, drop is 1100 m. After breakfast, proceed to the acclimatization climb to the Obzornaya peak (2900m). The ascent is not technically difficult; self-insurance is carried out using trekking poles. From the top there is a view of the Munku-Sardyk ridge and the Oka plateau, where the majestic rivers Irkut, Kitoy and Oka (Sayan) originate. Lunch (snack). Descent from the top. Return to base camp. Dinner by the fire. Overnight in tents heated by stoves. The altitude of the overnight stay is 1800 m above sea level.

Day 3.
The length of the trek is 10 km, the elevation gain is 1700 m. Breakfast. Exit in the direction of the Munku-Sardyk peak along the Muguvek River. A sharp climb along the Muguveka icefalls, color blue ice mesmerizing. Then we continue to climb until mountain lake Echo. Dinner. We put on and prepare special equipment: personal safety system, helmet, crampons, ice axe. Note: the climb may be canceled due to deterioration weather conditions posing risks to the health of tourists (the decision is made by the instructor-guide). We continue our ascent. From the peak, whose height is 3491 m above sea level, a majestic panorama of Mongolia and the Eastern Sayan opens up; Lake Khubsugul, covered with a shell of ice, is clearly visible. Descent along the ascent route, rest, lunch. After which we descend to base camp.