Hi all! While new trips are only being prepared, I decided to recall the past and write about hike through the Caucasus through the mountains to the sea. And it was in the distant, distant 2008, when the creative association ProYOU went to relatives in Adygea with the idea of ​​making a short trip with access to the sea.

After a short stay with relatives (to whom we will return more than once ;-)), a trip to Maykop, and hiking through the surrounding waterfalls, we found a local guide, Slava. He agreed to take us through the mountains for a small fee. And even arranged a minibus directly to the house! We probably could have gone by ourselves, but the new location and the presence of the reserve, as well as the prospect of solving issues with environmental authorities on our own, prompted us to take a guide.

The legendary all-Union tourist route No. 30 or simply “thirty” starts from the checkpoint of the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve, passes along the Lago-Naki plateau, through the passes of the Caucasian ridge, and ends in Dagomys, already on the Black Sea coast.

What is interesting about the route "thirty"? It covers several climatic zones at once - alpine meadows, mountain peaks with eternal snows, fir forests and subtropics of the coast. There is also a reserve here, and this helped to preserve the unique nature, rare and unique animals, birds, and plants. It is quite possible to meet bears here (in rare cases, of course) - we saw small and large footprints.

The route runs near the Oshten and Fisht mountains, from which many rivers of the region originate. You are guaranteed stunning landscapes of the Caucasus Mountains, stormy mountain rivers, the smell of herbs, a mountain bath and much more!

The route through the mountains to the sea looks like this: the checkpoint of the reserve - Instructor's gap - Armenian pass - Fisht shelter - Belorechensky pass - Cherkessky pass - Babuk-Aul shelter - Solokh-Aul shelter.

Trek to the Fisht Shelter

The minibus took us to the checkpoint, from where we went on foot along the Lago-Naki plateau. The spaces are incredible! The trail goes through alpine meadows, now and then bumping into streams and lakes, somewhere in the distance you can see a herd of horses.

From the Lago-Naki plateau, the trail passes to the slope of the Oshten mountain massif, the views become more and more “vertical”))

Amazing nature! The fields are just bursting with green...

Mountain Caucasian forbs

Our guide Slavik is a very cool dude, he has a special dialect, a mixture of Caucasian and Rostov)))

It's hard to go out of habit ...

For the whole day we walked about 7 km, not much, but the landscapes succeed each other with kaleidoscopic speed! At the end of the day we crossed the Armenian pass, the descent from which ended at the Fisht shelter. It is located at the foot of the famous mountain on the Belaya River, one might say at its source. From the pass you have a stunning view of the surrounding mountains!

View from the Armenian pass to the Fisht shelter and the valley of the Belaya river

There is a revival in the shelter - a lot of tents, people crowd around the kitchen, where you can order something to eat. Here are some bearded men...

Radial hike to the Big Fisht Glacier

The glacier is located at an altitude of more than 2800 meters above sea level. Fisht is famous for the presence of a large number of caves, grottoes, underground rivers. The most famous of them are the Soaring Bird Cave and the deepest White Star Cave in Russia. Also, Fisht is the westernmost peak of the Caucasus, which has glaciers.

To all these beauties we went the next morning. At first, the path slowly rises up, then very steep rocky ledges begin to meet, along which you have to climb up. With each new such ledge, more and more breathtaking views open up.

You can see the Fisht shelter below:

We go higher and higher to Mount Fisht, the views are opposite

Finally, we reached the glacier, walked a little more up it. In general, people ascend Fisht, the category of such an ascent is 1B, but we were not going to.

Above, only rocks, ice and gray thunderclouds

The guide Slava took a funny spaniel dog with him. It was difficult for her to go up and it was so hot that only when she saw the snow, she plunged into it with pleasure and let's ride on her back! Then I bathed in the sources of the Belaya River ;-) So I ran all wet and happy.

Shelter "Fisht" - shelter "Babuk-aul"

Our path lies further - through the mountains to the Black Sea. From the very early morning we got up and with the very first walker mastered the Belorechensky pass, where fierce battles took place during the Great Patriotic War. This is reported by a memorial obelisk, installed at the top of the pass. In general, this whole area has a rich military history, there are signs here and there, the remains of trenches ...

View from the Circassian pass to the Armenian pass. Fisht shelter in the valley

Here is another map-scheme of the area of ​​our trip:

After the Circassian Pass, the trail goes through a dense southern forest, where we stopped for lunch. Here you can already feel the subtropical climate and the proximity of the sea. Completely different plants and humidity. In general, nature, of course, is very different from the Altai, and even more so, Omsk, which is familiar to me.

Here the she-bear passed with the cub

Then begins a long descent into the valley of the Shakhe River, it is also called a fun descent. Imagine 7 kilometers only down the roots and the ground)) Everything is fine, but the knees towards the end begin to behave strangely, infrequently such a load falls on them! Whoever went down there will understand me :-)

Main Caucasian Range

Then you need to cross the suspension bridge over the Shakhe River, and the nearest shelter is within easy reach!

The shelter "Babuk-aul" is comfortably located on a large clearing in the middle of the southern warm forest. Unlike our former place of lodging for the night, here women are in charge of everything. You know, after all, the atmosphere is very different - calm and tranquility. Everything is neat, the tables are under a canopy, a great shower, and the stream flows right behind the "dining room"))

Shelter "Babuk-aul"

Finish line - the road to the sea in the back of a truck

Yesterday was a very long evening with wine and songs by the fire, so the morning was not waking up)) But there is nothing to do, especially since right in the morning the other guys and I agreed to chip in on the passing Gaz-66 towards the sea. And we had to leave right “now”, we didn’t even have time to have breakfast.

And yet, everything happens not by chance and not in vain! We would need a whole day. to walk along the Shakhe River to the village of Solokh-aul. And the road is not the most interesting - mud in the forest, no surrounding views.

I am amazed at the power of Gaz-66 - the truck easily drives right along the river, wading through lying trees and wet stones. In the back of course shakes mercilessly! But it’s interesting all the time: either a branch will whip in the ear, or you will jump half a meter, well, you also need to have time to talk with the guys from Chelyabinsk ;-)

In the village of Solokh-aul, we rested for a couple of hours and waited for the bus to Dagomys. The road to Dagomys is very exciting with its views, sharp turns, it constantly goes down to the sea. It was not possible to photograph all this beauty, since we are not the only ones who want to quickly plunge into the refreshing sea - a bus full of people!

That's all, our route through the mountains to the sea has ended, the legendary route "thirty" through the Lago-Naki plateau, Mount Fisht, several passes and climatic zones. Then I saw the sea for the first time! This is already later, every year it turns out, I go to these parts, and this was the first time, yes. It is difficult to convey this feeling ... the perfection of nature and the world around, the splendor that is simply impossible to imagine ...

I was still surprised by the locals, who almost don’t swim, they say “what did I forget there?”. I try to appreciate what I have every day, what I can forget about, just out of habit. But beauty is everywhere, you just have to look from the other side. And I urge you to do so!

Not far from Dagomys there is a wonderful place where you can put up tents thirty meters from the sea, it is open and accessible to all. At the same time, there are very few people there, only the railway is noisy at the top, but after a day you get used to it. The beach here is small pebbles and a rather steep descent into the sea, and there is a shower on the neighboring beach of the resort. All conditions for life! Strictly speaking, a tent may not be needed, this is the Krasnodar Territory and the subtropics! I highly recommend you go to!

Planning a big hiking trip this year, we suddenly turned to the classics of Soviet tourism (where the Internet will lead a person!) And chose ... Adygea. The famous route number 30: through the Caucasus Mountains to the Black Sea. Why not? What do we know about Adygea? Offhand, I remember something about goats and cheese, and (if you're lucky) about Maykop. But if you dig deeper... The Lago-Naki Plateau, the Oshten, Fisht and Pshekha-Su mountains already sound much more tempting! Mine has already been published, and then - a detailed story and a photo report.

What is remarkable about the "thirty":

• Popular, well-trodden route of Soviet times;
• The path lies through the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve with all sorts of relics;
• Ends with the sea (YES!!!);
• A film was made about her (“Route” with A. Abdulov, 2008; I haven’t watched it yet);
• It has its own dramatic history: in 1975, a tragedy occurred here on the Armenianka River, followed by the entire Union - due to human carelessness and a terrible set of circumstances, a large group of tourists died (a very instructive story about behavior in a group and human psychology in extreme circumstances) ;
• In fact (we went to test this hypothesis) - under good weather conditions, this route is "passed by a group of wounded children in sneakers." And we - moose in the tracks - must pass at once.

Route Information

Route thread: Lago-Naki checkpoint (Maikop district, Adygea) - Abadzeshsky pass - Armenian shelter - Guzeriplsky pass - Fisht shelter - Belorechensky pass - Cherkessky pass - Bobuk-Aul cordon - Bobuk-Aul shelter - Solokh-Aul (Krasnodar Territory ).

Most of the route passes along the Lago-Naki plateau, at an altitude of 2000 m above sea level, through the passes of the Fisht-Oshtenovsky massif (the three highest peaks of the region - Fisht, Oshten and Pshekha-su).

Light travel time: 5 walking days / Length: 80 km / Dates: August 5 - 10, 2012

Exit to the route: air flight St. Petersburg - Krasnodar, taxi from Krasnodar airport to Lago-Naki checkpoint (approx. 200 km) / Exit from the route: bus Solokh-Aul - Dagomys, minibuses Dagomys - Sochi - Adler, plane a / n Adler - St. Petersburg.

Day 1: Krasnodar - Lago-Naki checkpoint - Abadzeshsky pass - camp on the river. Armenian

On the night of August 3-4, 2012, an already established tourist team (or rather, its backbone of 4 people) departed from Pulkovo for Krasnodar.

At the airport we were met by a taxi driver of the most ordinary Krasnodar taxi. We did not manage to find other ways to get on the route; however, the price tag for bringing four tourists with voluminous backpacks to the neighboring Maykop region turned out, in our opinion, not too brutal: less than 4000 rubles. (only you need to order a taxi in advance, at the airport itself the prices will be different).

The road to the Lago-Naki checkpoint takes about 4 hours. Around 16:00 we reach the mark of 1750 m above sea level and run into the barrier. At the same time it starts to rain.

Checkpoint - a hut with a canopy. We hide under a canopy, draw up documents, pay for passes to the reserve. Our entire path will run through the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve, with all the ensuing restrictions. In particular, bonfires, felling forests, catching furs and other rallies "collecting wild plants" are prohibited.

“Can we wait at your place so as not to go out in the rain? - You will have to wait a long time ... the cyclone has come, for ten days ... "- Damn it. Who here dreamed of a sunny walk in the mountains? However, the Hydrometeorological Center warned:

After waiting for the moment when the rain became quieter, we act. And then upstairs, someone turns on the drain. The downpour lets in with such force that we go, overcoming the resistance of the wall of water and wind. Trousers immediately through, cold and disgusting stuck around the body. The boots are full of water pouring through the top. Do not raise your eyes to the road - biting rain washes your face in streams. You look strictly at your feet from under the stuck together eyelashes. The downpour is replaced by the bombardment of medium-caliber hail. Noise accompaniment - thunder peals in the mountains - inspires respect. Only after making sure that not a single thread is left dry, the elements calm down in the drizzling rain.

We leave on the Lago-Naki plateau. The trail is as wide as a dirt road in places, winding and branching in thick grass in places. The sun peeps through - it's hot in jackets, hides - it's cold. Changing clothes on the go

The review is 360 degrees, the view is rather monotonous. But, since I am not Prishvin, then let the photos tell about this area better:

The sun came out - happy!

We approach the Abadzesh pass. The climb here is quite unsharp, the pass itself is framed by low mounds with a trail mark.

From here, for the first time, a view of the top of Oshten opens.

Then we go on a flat and mostly down. But all the same: it’s hard to walk along the path soaked with rain and stirred by horses. Slippery. Dirty and wet to the waist. On the horizon to the left are the mighty three-thousanders.

By sunset we go to the valley of the Armenianka River (it is also Guzeripl). There is already a fairly large tourist camp with the same type of tents. It can be seen that this camp has been standing here all season, inside and out. Rangers approach and ask to show documents.

The Armenianka River is a thin stream. Even scooping up clean water with a pot is not possible everywhere - only on the rifts. And here in this thin icy stream (very similar to turning off the water in the city!), We wash our bodies and erase ourselves. The tents were set up on a hillock, away from the rest. The night promised to be clear and moonlit.

In the middle of the night we wake up from the fact that the heavens literally opened up. Lightning sparkles - such a feeling - right behind the awning of the tent. "What the hell am I doing here...?" With each flash, the tent is festively illuminated (thank you for not flashing). “Who thought up all this?”(a symbolic question, sooner or later sounds in each of our campaigns). “Excellent, we are also on a bald hillock!” Thunder rolls across the valley from end to end and shakes the tent. "Incinerate to hell..." In general, such existential revelations are NEEDED by every office worker. To better understand the value of life in general and a dry bed under the roof in particular. A warm office chair, coffee and cookies, internet-ay, where are you? Is it still in the same universe with me? And no littered ki-pi-ai, no working fakups on adrenaline can not be compared with the immediate threat of being buried in a landslide or struck down by lightning here and now. Defenseless and weak little man - in a cocoon of a sleeping bag under a thin canvas of a tent - on a scale of mountains and elements! For them, that you, that that crushed ant over there is one garbage. And this realization is somehow especially invigorating.

Day 2. Radial trip to Oshten. Transfer to the Fisht shelter.

As is clear from the subtitle, everyone survived. And to celebrate, immediately after breakfast, we went to the morning radial train for Mount Oshten. We started lightly at 10:00 in the morning, instructing Masha, who caught a cold and remained in the camp, to wait for us by 14:00.

On the outskirts of Oshten, it seems that to take this colossus with a swoop - well, noooo, without me! Towards, however, come across groups that at this hour are already descending from the summit. And skipping with children. So the eyes are afraid, but the legs go.

At first the path lies through the valley. Then the trail goes up to one of the spurs of Oshten.

On the gently sloping peak we make a halt to catch our breath.

Landmarks - turiki. Just before reaching the Oshten ridge, we will have a serious climb along a scree rocky slope. But it is generally safe to go: there is a path. This steep ascent takes about half an hour with breaks.

After it, we no longer walk along the ridge, but jump skipping.

From the ridge you can see the valley near Mount Fisht. We'll be there tonight. If only we could go straight down there! ( “Hello, Masha? pack your camp and stomp to the Fisht shelter, meet you right there!” =)

The top is quite flat and wide area. There are unexpectedly many people here. Someone is preparing tea on a gas burner. Most of them shout excitedly into the phone - there is practically no mobile connection downstairs. Camera shutters crackle here and there.

But the weather begins to deteriorate, and we still have to return and stomp to Fisht. Let's go back. The descent is much more fun than the ascent.

Road from Oshten

At the beginning of the third we are in the camp. We are preparing lunch and packing our things so that immediately after lunch we will set out in the direction of the Fisht shelter. There are 10 kilometers to the shelter and three remarkable points: Instructor's gap, Guzeriplsky and Armenian passes. But after lunch it starts to rain. We postpone the start, hoping to wait it out. Since the tents are already packed, we pile our backpacks in a pile and, together with a pot of tea, cover ourselves with an awning. Drinking tea. We wait. Dream.

Some time passes, and through my drowsiness I notice with displeasure that I am sitting on something wet. Trying to move doesn't change anything. I'm in a puddle. At the same moment, everyone else finds themselves in the same puddle. Alarm! Our hillock is limp and backpacks are in a real swamp! We catch up and, together with the awning and property, jump in the rain to a small shed near the Armenian woman herself.

The canopy is a roof on pillars, without a floor and walls. The ground here is just as wet, but at least it doesn't pour from above. The place under the canopy, as the most chocolate for many kilometers around, of course, has already been occupied: a group from Moscow has settled here. Meanwhile, the Armenianka turned into a turbulent muddy stream. Cold.

Half an hour later, two figures appear on the horizon and are rapidly approaching, which, like a magnet, pulls our canopy towards them. By their characteristic horns, we recognize real moose in them, making 50 km a day. And now we are already 11 refugees on five relatively dry square meters.

But daylight is not rubber, so we decide to go out in the rain. The rain, fortunately, is gradually subsiding.

In about 15 minutes we go out to the Instructor's gap.

instructor slot

The trail is obvious, well marked, from such a walk - a real pleasure. We're going at a good pace.

We pass the Guzeriplsky pass marked by an obelisk and move on, to the Armenian pass. Somewhere here a river with the funny name Mutny Teplyak should flow, but we are unable to identify it, since even streams are called rivers here, and in the rain, streams appear spontaneously and everywhere.

Finally we reached the Armenian pass. From here you can already see the view of the valley of the Fisht shelter. The houses below are like toys against the backdrop of the giant Fisht peak. Meanwhile, the daylight is melting and leaving right before our eyes. Here, above, there is much more of it than below, in the valley ...

From the pass the trail dives into a beech forest. And then all of a sudden the light goes out. Pitch darkness. Flashlights are packed far into the backpack. A rocky descent with wet tree roots and champing mud is intuitively guessed under your feet. Gods! Open a teleport to the valley, please! Now I most of all want to lie with my legs stretched out in a dry and warm sleeping bag and spit on the ceiling of the already set up tent (and let me be clean already!) But everything is natural: we are in a fucking beech forest, and you can’t see a single thing here ! Every now and then losing the path, almost by touch, after another forty minutes we go out to the Belaya River. The path leads us straight to the bridge, and on the other side, a vast camp is guessed from the wandering lights in the bushes.

The administrator of the base shows a healthy indifference to our group: we were not asked to show documents and pay for accommodation. In this direction - toilets, in that direction - garbage cans, in this stream - drinking water. Here's everything we need to know about the shelter.

Important note: a drinking stream named after the deceased climber flows between the rock massif and the base. The administration of the camp does not recommend drinking water from the Belaya River (after a case of mass poisoning several years ago). Previously, everyone randomly washed, washed and drank from the same reservoir.

With the last effort of will, we set up camp, wash ourselves in the invigoratingly icy Belaya, wash off and cook dinner. Suddenly, from the side of the Fisht-Oshten pass, on the other side of the river, two lights appear. These are our today's familiar moose. We arrived, although they started even later than us, and, apparently, bypassed Oshten from the other side, through the Fisht-Oshtensky pass. So, there is a path there.

At night, on the ridge leading to the top of Fisht, lanterns loom. This means that there, at a breathtaking height, without firewood and, possibly, without water, people nested and spent the night among the rocks. And it's cool.

Day 3. Fisht: peak and shelter

Radial on Fisht. You can climb Fisht only very early in the morning and in very good weather. They say: if there is even a cloud in the sky in the morning, it makes no sense to rise. Until you get there, the weather will deteriorate to the state of "it is impossible to go." Sometimes the weather for climbing Fisht is expected for several days. But we don't have that luxury: today it's either yes or no.

Climbing Fisht is a more difficult category than Oshten. And you have to get up for him at five or six in the morning. I am cowardly and refuse to go. Masha has a cold and doesn't go to Fisht either. The delegation to the summit is reduced to two people - Anton and Yura. And Masha and I have a day. With laundry, cocoa drinking and studying the base.

Here is the photo production that the guys from Fisht brought that day:

Glacier on Fisht

Having spoken at six in the morning, they returned somewhere around four in the afternoon.

In the meantime, Masha and I explored the territory of the Fisht shelter up and down. Everything here is permeated with the atmosphere of the good old Soviet tourism and pioneer camp.

Children play volleyball. The elders sit around the fire pits with a guitar. It rushes through the camp: “The sea is black ... like a bowl of wine ...” or “The time has come! People are losing their heads! And this time is called spring! The voice of the singer is mesmerizing. To know that this voice will haunt us for another three days.

The windows of the barracks are wide open and inside you can see simple bunk beds with a truly pioneering mess. Everything is very old, but solid, lovingly made. Open gazebos with fire pits, a volleyball court with a net, a bathhouse, outdoor washbasins, footbridges across a stream, wooden toilets divided into men’s and women’s… This is such a stronghold of “civilization” among the deserted mountains (although the local mountains can only be called deserted with a stretch). But here - people, and living here all season. A reliable place where you can hide, wait out the bad weather, ask for advice, help. There is no water or motor road here, but, as far as we understand, there is some kind of helicopter connection.

Fisht in the light of day. Glade for tents

During the day, volunteers with garbage bags go around the entire territory and collect garbage. Apparently, they are thrown here for a long time, if not for the whole summer.

The day goes by very slowly and calmly.

In the evening, everyone is attracted by gazebos with a fire. Companies gather, play "Crocodile", but not easy, but with a subvert. Judging by the accepted system of gestures and concepts, crocodile gurus gathered here. We, too, fit into this cheerful midnight nonsense. “What is it, what are you showing, explain in a human way? Space? Frying pan? Acceleration? Eat? Eat? Barack Obama?…"

Day 4. Belorechensky and Cherkessky passes.

In the morning after breakfast we leave the shelter. The trail runs across a drinking stream, past a rock with memorial plaques to climbers, tourists and rescuers who died here, and rushes up into a coniferous forest. We start climbing.

The trail winds along the Fisht slope. At some point, we overtake a heterogeneous group of 15-20 people, with teenagers and adults, led by yesterday's guitarist and singer with a beautiful, powerful, deep voice. He gives a command to let us pass and they part.

Belorechensky pass

Just before the Belorechensky pass, the rise is steep, we were out of breath. What a matter of cows and horses grazing around! They jump up and down the slopes effortlessly ...

Belorechensky pass

From the Belorechensky pass to the Cherkessky pass, we follow the path along the slope, almost without losing altitude. On the way we meet a shepherd's base, in the local way - a farce. Located near the town of Mavrikoshka, it is called just that: “Balagan near Mavrikoshka”.

Approaches to the Cherkessky pass

There is a large tourist group on Cherkessky. Therefore, we do not linger here, but immediately dive downhill. More passes are not expected, and this is a joy! Ahead is only what is called in the route descriptions "Merry Descent" (or "Sad Rise" - depending on which direction to go). The trail really goes down under a noticeable pleasant slope. Good, wide forest path. Around - solid beeches (just like in the St. Petersburg metro on Monday morning):

In this forest we get up for lunch. Water is a little tight here, very small streams come across not too often. But if you have the desire and patience, you can get a pot of clean water. While we are having lunch, we are overtaken by a group with a loud-voiced instructor, with whom we left the Fisht shelter at the same time today.

Traditionally, in the afternoon, clouds roll in the mountains and distant thunder peals begin. Maybe it won't reach us? Maybe we are already close enough to the sea? But no. The rain has long paws, it reaches us. We stretch the awning across the path. Having waited, we continue the descent. The descent gets really steep. It's amazing how such powerful trees grow here! The faces of oncoming groups on the rise inspire us to exploits. However, foreseeing the imminent twilight, we are already looking for a place to spend the night.

The ideal place for the camp - we overheard it the day before - a clearing with ferns, or the Glade of the Stadnik. And indeed, we will soon be on it. But the best (and smoothest) place on it is already occupied by a loud group. We stand a little lower, on a platform with a slight slope. A small stream flows along the path, from which you can squeeze water for drinking and washing.

A characteristic feature of the glade is an old withered tree:

It’s a sin to miss and not use for a cute vacation photo. Even Yura could not resist:

In the evening (for the first time in the reserve!) we burn a fire (well, there is a fire, so you can!). For firewood, of course, any sushi goes. There is no need to talk - in the neighboring camp, the loud leader works as sound accompaniment for two camps: “Who put his mug on my way here? I’m not a proud guy, I’ll step over, but I’m just wondering ... ”After such valuable instructions for setting up the camp were distributed, everything was done and everyone gathered for dinner, landing tales begin:“ Remember, guys: jump on the forest, on the water and on the mountains - these are three different exercises! .. ”And finally he picks up a guitar. He definitely sings well.

We fall asleep under the lulling "Green Carriage": "Mice, bear cubs and guys are sleeping ..."

Day 5. Babuk-aul - Solokh-aul

Lulled by mice-bear cubs, we fall asleep soundly until morning. And we wake up to the same voice with a strikingly different intonation: “Junks!!!” From the further development of thought, it is clear that someone launched a wasp into the paratrooper leader's tent.

The descent ends in the settlement of Babuk-aul. "Babukami" in Adygea called widowers. Widows are straws. Hence the name of the next settlement where we are on our way: the widow's village, Solokh-aul.

On the way there is such a bridge (to cross one at a time!)

Behind the bridge we continue along the Shahe river. The trail is more like a road. After some time we go to the Babuk-Aul tourist shelter. Break for lunch.

At the Babuk-Aul shelter we meet for the last time a friendly group of loud-voiced paratrooper Anton Viktorovich (we already know the name of the courageous leader of children and women). They stay overnight at the shelter, and this is quite a good option. The administration of the base, a lady with a dog, is trying to convince us of the same, which claims that there is another 17 km to Solokh-Aul, and it is impossible to camp before it. But we are adamant: today we need to get as close as possible to Solokh-Aul and we are moving on.

Behind the shelter we enter the picturesque boxwood forest:

Slowly, the road is formed into a decent dirt road along the Shahe River. On the one hand, a slope covered with shaggy greenery, on the other, a cliff, below the river. Sometimes there are streams, big and small. Under this, for example, you can take a shower!

Exactly at this waterfall, we are overtaken by the traditional afternoon bad weather. Suddenly it becomes dark and the wind begins to hum alarmingly in the tops of the trees. While we take out raincoats and cover our backpacks, a hefty wood flies right to our feet from above, a kind of bunch of about five meters in length. And so it can beat. And come on - fuck! And we start with redoubled enthusiasm, but too late: the rain has poured. After a couple of minutes, it doesn’t really matter how long we still have to walk to the nearest roof: we are wet to the underwear. The boots are full of water again. We continue to stomp under a refreshing rain shower. All around, a tall dry forest crackles menacingly.

However, after some time we come out to a sudden checkpoint: a hut with a canopy. No one comes out to our knocking and voices and we decide to wait under a canopy. An unfinished bottle of vodka on the table clearly indicates that the trace of a person here has not yet had time to catch a cold ... We are thinking about whether we should spend the night in this booth under the roof. Suddenly, out of nowhere - a car! And now we are already rammed into the UAZ. Unsportsmanlike, but with comfort we overcome the remaining 7 kilometers to the checkpoint when leaving the reserve. Over the abysses and across the rivers, the road resembles a trophy. On the way, the driver tells us that the road to Babuk-aul - the one we walked today - was blocked in one place, and now we can’t pass, we can’t pass. Well, it happens here. Good thing we got through.

At the checkpoint we are asked to show documents and give exact instructions where we can get up for the night. A place on a flat, but gloomy clearing near the rocky riverbed, in principle, suits us. One thing is bad: they did not look after the backpacks, the contents got wet. Sleeping in a wet sleeping bag is, I will tell you, a little pleasure. Somehow we dry ourselves, as far as the after-rain evening air allows, and go to bed - on our last overnight stay on the route.

Day 6. Solokh-Aul - Morko!

In the morning, we only have a short forced march to Solokh-Aul, which takes us about 2 hours to walk along a good, rammed road, in some places resembling a tunnel to a wonderland.

In Solokh-aul, I say goodbye to my LOWA battle tracks, which faithfully served me in summer and winter, in Altai, Baikal, Khibiny and many other places. The Caucasus finished them off, but they lived a decent life!

At the entrance to Solokh-aul, we, in the last dry and clean T-shirts put on on the occasion of the end of the route and exit to the sea, are doused with rain for the last time. We run straight to the bus stop. Solokh-aul is considered the birthplace of the Krasnodar variety of tea, there is even something like a museum with a tasting room, but we reject the option with a cultural program. Only to the sea! We are waiting for the bus to Dagomys.

This dog met us at the entrance to Solokh-aul and escorted us to the very stop, for which he was rewarded with a sausage and bread.

By the evening of the same day, it was waiting for us. Morko!!! Thunder rumbled and lightning flashed in the distant mountains. And we enjoyed the warm (and dry!) ​​Adler evening. And only in the corner of my mind I thought about tourists getting wet in the mountains. Well, in any case, they still have the sea ahead! And we honestly deserve our maritime happiness)

Additional information about the route traveled

Route descriptions from other groups:

• http://mountaintrips.ru/routest/sea/30-ka/ - route description
• http://ppeterr.narod.ru/fisht_1.html - similar route
• http://golodranec.ru/index.php?article=77 - a detailed report of a group from Moscow

Place and time of the group meeting:

Meeting at the railway station of the city of Krasnodar

Our guide and transport will be in the parking lot at 10:00 am. We will meet you with a "Wanderer" sign at the exit from the airport. We will also have your flight and phone numbers, so we will contact you anyway.

Meeting at the airport of Krasnodar

Our guide and transport will be in the parking lot at 11:00 am. We will meet you with a "Wanderer" sign at the exit from the airport. We will also have your flight and phone numbers, so we will contact you anyway.

IMPORTANT! Individual transfer Krasnodar > Kamennomostsky (in case of a different arrival time from the main group) is paid additionally.

Back

On the last day of the tour, we will arrive in the resort town of Dagomys (the bus is paid extra). Next - an independent transfer to the place of residence. If you stay to rest in Dagomys or in the cities closest to it, then we advise you to buy return tickets from Sochi.

Train tickets

Most trains arrive in Krasnodar from 3:00 to 6:00. Cost from Moscow (from 3000 rubles one way). On the road about 22 hours.

Flights

The most convenient flight from Aeroflot, arrives at 8:25 and costs from 3,500 rubles one way. Flight time is about 2 hours. We advise you to search for tickets through a search site skyscanner.

To get along before taking tickets, please contact us and we will tell you how and what other members of the group get to.

ATTENTION! You can buy tickets ONLY after submitting an application and confirming the availability of places by the manager of the region.

Accommodation:

At the hostel in 3-4-bed rooms with private facilities on the floor (2 days).

In mountain tourist shelters we are accommodated in 3-4-person tourist tents.

VNIMAN IE! We can accommodate you with other tourists of our group of the same sex (depending on the availability of rooms/teams/tents). If you need another option, be sure to write to us about it!

Accommodation by the sea

Nine years of experience have led us to the fact that every tourist independently chooses and books accommodation on the coast! This is due to the huge number of accommodation options offered and the individual needs of each tourist. In any settlement on the sea, you will be offered houses, apartments, hotels, just rooms! Everyone will be able to choose the appropriate option. You can also use the service Booking.com.

During the day + 15°С... +25°С, at night 0°С... +10°С. In the mountains, the weather is cool and very changeable - even at the height of summer you can observe all seasons.

Requirements for participants:

This route does not have a category of difficulty and is designed for beginners. Special tourist preparation for the route is not required, but participants must be in good physical shape. We strongly recommend that you follow our recommendations for packing and DO NOT take anything extra! During the hike, participants carry their own things. Additional weight (part of products) per person is about 1-2 kg. That is, subject to the recommendations on the selection of equipment and equipment, the total weight of the backpack should not exceed 8-11 kg.

Children under 18 are allowed on the route accompanied by their parents (or an adult accompanying (brother / sister / friend). Children are allowed on the route from the age of 6. . Conscripts.

Important! To receive the benefit, you must have with you a document confirming the status of the beneficiary, and identity cards (passport, birth certificate for a child, etc.) of all Wanderers who are eligible for the benefit.

Route number 30 (All-Union Thirty)

From Khadzhokh to Solokh.
Briefing:

The history of this unique route began in the 30s of the last century. Then
the Soviet government, puzzled by the problem of improving the nation, was looking for
low-budget solutions. Fish oil and tourist routes have become
original priority national projects of that time, actively
propagandized and, in fairness, gave quite a convincing effect.

Former 30th All-Union route - now the only high-altitude route in Russia .
He still continues to act, attracting with his incredible magical
beauty of thousands of tourists. It is a route where tourists pass all
landscape areas of the country. Starting from the Kuban black earth steppes,
deciduous and coniferous forests, rising to subalpine and alpine meadows,
eternal snows and severe glaciers. Descending to the south side of the Main Range,
they pass through the zone of forests of the Colchian type and fall into the subtropics to palm trees,
bamboo and magnolias.

Participation in such a route is comparable to the full course of a sanatorium
treatment. But it is expensive to build sanatoriums, and in a matter of years a
a whole network of tourist routes, shelters were built, schools of instructors arose.
"Thirty" was a very popular destination, and during the season the route passed
about one hundred thousand people.

Linear route
Route length: 60 km.
Height min: 200 m, max: 2087 m.
Pos. Hadjokh - Lago-Naki plateau — Shelter "Fisht" — per. Belorechensky - shelter "Babuk-aul"
— settlement solohaul

The route passes through the territory of the Fisht-Oshten massif and further, on the southern
macroslope of the Caucasus Range, stretches along the drainage basin of the Shakhe River to
the village of Solokh-Aul.
With regard to walking, the route does not present any particular difficulties, although there are a number of
steep climbs and descents. Mandatory instruction on the rules of being on
the territory of the reserve and on the technique of passing potentially dangerous areas
trails (steep climbs, steep descents, windfall areas, avalanche
trays, snow fields, etc.).

Recreational improvement refers to the presence or absence of trails,
fireplaces, houses, booths and other small architectural forms, etc. Usually
the level of improvement is assessed on a 4-point scale:
1 point- landscaping is not carried out at all.
2 points- established trails and roads, places of parking and stops are not equipped
at all.
3 points- glades cleared, subgrade leveled, trails in good
condition, there are separate pieces of "forest furniture".
4 points- the site is fully prepared for the reception of tourists (paths are cleared, there is
drinking water, fuel, food for horses, houses with bunks and a stove, prepared
fire pits, rain shelters, etc.)
According to this scale, the improvement of the route as a whole corresponds to 3.5 points .

The best vacation is an unplanned vacation

The weather in these places is often changeable. In the summer it often happens that it burns before lunch
the sun, and after - a downpour by a wall and by the evening it is again clear. And so it may repeat
every day in a row for a week. Or vice versa - the drought is unbearable. summer
on a clear day in the mountains on the route it can reach + 25-30 degrees, and
at night the temperature drops to 0.. +5.

Get to the village Kamennomostsky (Khadzhokh) from the nearest town Maykop (40 km.)
can be done in two simple ways: by train and by suburban bus, paying for
a ticket is about 40-50 rubles. Buses run on average every 2 hours,
electric trains: one in the morning (arrival to the village at 9 o'clock), the other in the evening (at 7
evenings). The trip lasts approximately 1.5 hours. Both types of public transport
arrive in the center of Hadzhokh, where the market square and the market are located, also
several mini markets. Here you can buy everything you need for the trip.
low level of complexity.

Central square in Hadzhokh

railway station

If the plans include exploring the surroundings, then places to spend the night are not difficult to find
in the private sector. To do this, just ask the relevant taxi drivers on the square
or read the ads on the walls and pillars here. Also on the territory
the village there are several more or less large camp sites, from which you can
allocate the network of t / b "Gornaya" in terms of size and service. Preliminary study
interesting objects for local excursions can be found on the Wikimapia website and in the HAJOKH-CITY group on the Vkontakte website.

Belaya River

Belaya-view from the observation deck

Mountain with a rock "Tank hatch"

Cave "Through"

Waterfalls "Rufabgo"

On a hike you need to go at least a little preparing the body in walks around the surrounding
paths. If an untrained person can easily overcome uphill climbs, then
the descents at the end of the route will turn into hard labor for him! train the weak
places for the muscles of the legs, shoulders and back can be squatted with a prepared backpack, so
by checking the equipment itself. If it seems to you that some part of the backpack
or shoes may rub, it is better to fix the problem immediately.

Clothing must be selected based on the time of the route. For a sunny summer day
the ideal option would be: panama, light long-sleeved shirt, trousers made of
water-repellent material, and don't forget a raincoat or raincoat. The long sleeve will
reliably protect exposed areas of hands from the scorching mountain sun and from dangerous
plants hogweed, after touching which, after a while
there is a chemical burn of the skin. You can literally get a severe sunburn
after a few tens of minutes of exposure to the sun unprotected skin.

It is necessary for everyone to have warm clothes with them - a sweater, warm socks, a hat +
spare socks, pants and sleeping bag. Also take care of the flashlight,
batteries and a first aid kit, which should contain a lot of plaster for corns.
Primus can be very useful.

hogweed

Low clouds over the plateau

It's clear

More details with attractions near Khadzhokh and with route maps can be
Familiarize yourself in the group HAJOKH-CITY - (open group). Here you can also set
question for admins.

Alpine tourist shelter "Fisht" is located at the source of the Belaya River between
mountains Fisht and Oshten. Consists of 2 one-and-a-half-storey houses with berths,
equipped fireplace with pots and boilers with boiling water, a toilet.
The cost of spending the night in the house is about 50 rubles per person. Spreads in front of the houses
flat meadow with a place for tents. The shelter sells alcohol and other products.
This is the perfect place to rejuvenate.

The next part of the route will be a little more difficult. Check if you fit
within the time limits for passing the checkpoint, otherwise they may be fined at the exit from the reserve.

Immediately after leaving the shelter, you pass a memorial stone and a trail
will rise all the time upwards with small respite. The route goes around
eastern spurs of Mount Fisht. A few more kilometers and you are on one of the most beautiful
country passes. It is called the Belorechensky pass. It also took place
battles with the Nazi invaders. There is a monument and a memorial stone with
holes from shells. On this pass begins to work weak
cellular communication (so far one Megafon), but you can talk. Then the signal disappears.

On the Belorechensky pass

The trail goes through a hilly meadow. Armenians usually graze horses and cows on it.
After a while you will see the dwellings of the shepherds who live here with their
families for centuries. They have a separate house for the night with a stove and
firewood. I note that it is forbidden to burn fires anywhere in the reserve. Armenians
you can buy the healthiest fresh milk.

Have you ever had to go down a steep path that stretches for 5 kilometers?
The slope called "Merry Descent" will give such a test to your feet on
endurance, and if it has not yet dried out after the rains, then generally hold on ... Other
once it seems that it will last indefinitely until you enter the clearing "Cold
spring". Having replenished your water supplies, and taking a breath at the table, you, looking at the map,
Note that you are only half way down. Until the end of the descent, the trail runs along
beech-chestnut forest with centuries-old trees and grazing
semi-wild pigs.

On your way you will meet foresters' houses, apiaries and vegetable gardens, until
come out to the Shakhe river with a small masonry bridge. Further through the kilometer of the route
along this river you come to the Babuk-aul shelter.

After 1.5-2 km. from the shelter the road will be blocked by a barrier with a checkpoint
point - the exit from the reserve. You didn't throw away the tickets, did you?

Further, the Shakhe River makes a smooth bend to the south. The dirt road runs
on the left side of the river, and on the left there are flagstone rocks with numerous
streams with crystal clear water. It's always damp here and sometimes you can't get around the puddles.Next
a major barrier will be the Bzych River, which flows into the Shah,

This village is located on the left bank of the Shakhe River, 33 km from the Black Sea.
seas. After entering Solokh, in order to get to the bus stop, you need to
walk along the dirt road without turning anywhere and reach the place where in front of the steep
the turn will start asphalt.
Then go along the paved road along the stream to the main road and turn
to the left. A little more and you will be met by a bus stop with a food stall.
Buses that go to Dagomys run infrequently.

At a stop in Solokha.

Have a nice holiday...

10500 with a group 7-8 people
12500 with a group 4-6 people

12500 with a group 7-8 people
14500 with a group 4-6 people

15500 with a group 7-8 people
17500 with a group 4-6 people

Lagonaki is a unique mountainous region of the North-Western Caucasus. The name “Lagonaki” denotes a highland that combines into one orographic unit a number of mountain ranges and flat-topped ridges between the Belaya and Pshekha rivers: the Nagoi-Chuk ridge, the Lagonaksky ridge, the Chernogorie, Messo, Murzikao and Abadzesh massifs, the Azish-Tau ridge, the Stone Sea ridge and Fisht-Oshtenovsky mountain range. On the periphery, the highlands are clearly delineated by steep, sometimes steep slopes. The highlands are composed of a thick stratum of Upper Jurassic limestones, in which karst landforms are widely developed: caves, karst funnels and wells, kars, karst valleys.

In the scientific literature, as well as in local history publications, you can find different definitions of Lagonaki, their area and boundaries. Sometimes under this name only ridges with mountain-meadow vegetation, located north of the peaks of Pshekha-Su and Oshten, are combined. There is even a statement that the Lagonaki plateau is a hollow between the Murzikao massif and the Stone Sea ridge.

A number of tourist routes have been laid through the Lagonaki highlands, the most famous of which is, perhaps, the Thirty Route or "thirty".

Features of the route

The highlands of Lagonaki can be visited from the end of May, but the best time for climbing Route 30 is the second half of June, July, August and September, when the alpine meadows are freed from snow, the subalpine tall grasses do not interfere with walking, overnight stays at altitude are not so cold and you can even swim in the mountains. lakes. At the end of September, the first snowfalls are already possible in these places, which briefly adorn the shores of lakes and trees in the valley, to then melt. The beginning of October is the time for golden autumn in these places, but at the same time in the highlands you can get into the beginning of a real winter.

Hiking along Route 30 can take from four days. But it is better to plan 4-5 days for this trip: during this time you can visit all the most interesting sights of Lagonaki and its environs.

Route 30 is not technically complicated and is accessible to almost any traveler.

For travel need the following travel equipment:

• backpack (volume not less than 60 l)
• rug
• sleeping bag (preferably with a comfort temperature not higher than +5°)
• tent
• trekking poles
• flashlight
• a set of dishes (mug, spoon, bowl, knife).

In late September and early October, frosts are possible at night, so you will need warm clothes.

When packing your backpack, don't forget leave a place in it for products (which the guide will buy and distribute to you)!

additional information

Timing

June-October

Complexity

Suitable for beginners, but minimal fitness is desirable

Prices

Hike for 3 days, price per person:

10500 with a group 7-8 people
12500 with a group 4-6 people

Hike for 4 days, price per person:

12500 with a group 7-8 people
14500 with a group 4-6 people

Hiking for 5 days, price per person:
15500 with a group 7-8 people
17500 with a group 4-6 people

(For a group of less than 4 people, the price is negotiable)

Included in the price

• a pass to a specially protected natural area (reserve, sanctuary, national park)
• meals on the route
• guide services
• medical kit
• gas equipment
• photo essay from the trip

The price does not include

• equipment rental
• medical insurance
• transfer from the airport / railway station to the beginning of the route (to the beginning of the pick-up on off-road vehicles)

Equipment rental

• the cost of renting a basic set of equipment (tent, rug, sleeping bag, dishes, flashlight, trekking poles) is 1200 rubles. per day per person.
• the cost of renting additional equipment (backpack, leggings, etc.) can be found in the section.

additional information

• Participants carry tents, personal equipment (sleeping bag, rug, flashlight, dishes) and food on their own in backpacks. Setting up the camp and cooking is carried out in turn by all participants of the campaign.
• Depending on the weather conditions and the physical condition of the group, the guide may make changes to the itinerary.
• The optimal group size is 4 to 10 people.